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Fashion

Has Gucci Gone Too Far?

Has Gucci gone too far? A recent the New York Times article asked the question, “Is Gucci stylish or tacky?”  The answer could go in both ways according the perspective. Gucci embraced the modern. In many ways the looks reflect the “Selfie Times”.  See me! This is what I got! Instagram posting moment! Because life is not about being subtle.  Because these designs are made with social media in mind, it is all about the post. During Fashion Week Milan in February I got an up close and personal go see of the entire collection at the Gucci Campus in Milan.  Creative Director Alessandro Michele has taken the brand into new areas unashamed personal expression. For those who like the subdued, buy a British Heritage Brand.

Cap

This Fall Collection mixed with pop references and styles. There is no one silhouette. It is about being photographed in the here and now, no matter what is worn. The aesthetic is classic meets frivolity, everyday items charged with bling. The pieces can be mixed and match with streetwear for a standout effect, casual jeans with a baseball cap emblazoned with a “G” on top. For bag fanatics in all of us with the urge to show off, the exotic skins and shapes with shining details are there. You cannot help but get noticed with this accessory hanging on your arm. The details are many, such as embroidery, logos, and prints.

What I liked the most was the overcoat with a twist of three visual styles. One half was traditional gentlemen’s gray while the other mixed tartan with an animation print on the bottom. The gender look is menswear but in reality it could be effortlessly worn by anyone. Honestly, I would not wear an entire Gucci look. It would overwhelm me. One piece would be enough for an entrance.

Gucci Fall 2018 looks are available in stores.

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Fashion

Cinema. This Should Be Interesting!

A Black and Paper Cinema Recommendation.

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Fashion

Elegance is the Key!

A Black and Paper exclusive interview with shoe designer Walter De Silva.

When a man has a love of feminine elegance matched with a skill of design of course he becomes a shoe designer.

A background in car design, how did you move into shoe design?

Honestly, I consider myself a designer, not a fashion designer. I am a car designer, industrial designer. My approach is to design the heel, design the line, the proportions.I like cars and shoes.

I do not follow fashion, I follow my passion, my dream.

Why did you decide to design women’s shoes?

Two reasons: One, historicalreason, my grandfather had a shoe factory in Milan between the wars. In my family everyone spoke about shoes. Secondly, I like night shoes. They have sex appeal on women who wear them.

Should a woman wear a all everyday?

NO! NO! As I said, my shoes are for the night, after 7, starting with a cocktail, then dinner, a drink before going to a disco.

What is your shoe philosophy?

©WALTER DE SILVA SHOES – WDS LUMIERE 2017/2018

Elegance! Proportion! Sex Appeal! From the elegance and proportion side, I design shoes for them to look like one element from heel to toe, seamless. From the sex appeal side, A woman needs a strong personality to wear my shoes because she is sending out a message.

Is there one famous woman who you would like to wear your shoes?

Sharon Stone.

Why Sharon Stone?

As I said, Personality! Her biography is one of a lady with a lot of experience. Super elegant! Cool! Honest Eyes! I do not know her but she is the type of person for my shoes.

©Walter De Silva Shoes 2017/2018

You do not follow fashion, can you explain?

I like fashion. I admire many fashion designers. I cannot say I am a fashion designer. I have a different background. I am a product designer stimulated by different interests.

Are you one of those designers who like to perpetuallycreate?

Creating is is the soul and heart. There is a lot of preparation involved in designing. You have to know where you come from if you want to have a visual reference. Today design is about aestheticas well as problem solving. Once I had a client who wanted to have lights for a certain type of ambient. This project not only involvedtechnologybut transforming it into something special for everyone.The company head was very proud of the final work.

What is the design process?

I think about what would a lady like to wear. My approach is from an architecture point of view. Design is a discipline, architecture is one part. Shoe design is a micro discipline.Functionality is very important.

©Walter De Silva Shoes 2017/2018

When was the label founded?

I started Walter De Silva Shoes 2015, presenting one collection per year. My shoes are Created and Made in Italy. Even the boxes are Italian. This means a lot. I have to say “Thank You” to Barney’s New York for launching me in the States. Step by Step more retailers have come onboard from all over the world.

What are the brand’s future plans?

This is our, his wife, is a part of the company, Emmanuelle, is cofounder and CEO, last kid! We have 5. (Laughing) I always introduce new designs in Milan and Paris during Fashion Weeks.

I will maintain 15 styles a year with changes in colors and materials, always for the evening.  Perhaps I will add ankle boots in the future.

Check out the video: http://www.blackandpaper.com/2018/06/25/desilva-elegance/

Categories
Fashion

DeSilva Elegance

As part of the Black and Paper  interview with shoe designer Walter De Silva, we wanted to show you shoes based on his philosophy of “Elegance”.

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Fashion

Final Walk from Agnes B.

[KGVID]http://www.blackandpaper.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Agnes-B-.mp4[/KGVID]

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Fashion

Agnes B. Homme

From Paris Fashion Week Men designer Agnes B. displays rural French heritage on her sleeve.  The designer is inspired by rural looks; worker overalls and shirts, all down to Earth. I call her style “Subdued French” yet always wearable.

Images by Brice Hardelin 

Categories
Fashion

Is the Party Over!

Very recently there has been an upheaval in the media and social media world. Has the time of accountability in influencer marketing arrived? Global consumer company advertiser Unilever made a shot across the bow announcing there needs to be more transparency, less bots and false likes. At Cannes Lions, marketing head Keith Weed insisted on more honesty from both the influencers and social media platforms, especially Instagram. If a man in charge of an $8 billion annual ad budget speaks, media listens. By taking a stand against the fraudulent side of the influencer business, Weed deserves our applause. The international brand will no longer work with influencers buying engagement. The open secret is now out. Denial is no longer an option.

Black and Paper quit the sharing site in 2017 due to our lack of trust on the site. How do the algorithms work? Why are certain profiles promoted more than others? There are so many questions unanswered. Many wannabe influencers have no choice, turning to bots for relevance. Trust or authenticity are out the window. $1.000 buys 100.000 followers, all fake!

Influencer marketing has it benefits. There are genuine influencers who work hard and have skills, but the field has now been taken over by greed.  The desire for freebies.  Influencer news of late has been negative,         The Atlantic reported on five star hotel resorts flooded with requests for free rooms from everyone with an Instagram account. The travel influencer who posted photo shopped images of himself in locations, another article reported on the level of false comments on certain post as high as 70%.  The thirst is real! Earning upwards of $5000 a posting would tempt anyone.

Is it any wonder why Black and Paper stopped using Instagram? We got support from some, treated like herpes from others but the journey continues.

Thank you Unilever, happy to know we are on the same side.

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Fashion

Miyake @PFWM

 

Stay tuned for the write up

Images by Brice Hardelin for Black and Paper 

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Fashion

Miyake Preview

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Fashion

MFWM Rundown

What was my opinion of Milan Fashion Week Men? I posted a preview on Twitter but I will give my full opinion on my first UNFILTERED podcast tomorrow.