Author: Editor

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Fashion

#thisberlinale18

What do two Berlinale enthusiast do in this age of hyper oversharing of opinions? Make a video of course! This is the first of many videos from the fest.

The 68th edition of the German A list festival has many challenges this year; including calls from German film professionals for a radical change of course along with a slim down schedule from the current 400 films shown.

Please forgive the babbling and background noise. The first was because we were brain dead after seeing documentaries. The second because we were in the Cinemaxx Theater as it was preparing to open.

Please stay tune for more with guests hosts, commentators, interviews, and reviews from the Berlinale.

Breck Graham is the editor of Black and Paper

David Mouriquand is a film critic and journalist.

Follow the coverage at #thisberlinale18

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Fashion

Couture 18 from France 24

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Fashion

My Tech Accessory

I used the Canon G1X for Pitti Uomo in Florence and Milan Fashion Week Men. I am not a professional photographer but the quality of pics I made with this camera were great. The look of the camera gave me an expert appearance.   It is light weight and powerful.

My full review on this product and other Canon Products I have used will come soon.

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Fashion Feature

An Inspiring Master

Stepping into the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence was a dream. American press dubbed Ferragamo “Shoemaker to the stars”. Pickford to Garbo to Crawford wore his creations on screen and off.

Born the eleventh of 14 children in the Southern Italian city of Bonito. After opening his first shop at age 9 in his hometown, Ferragamo left his native Italy in 1915 in a third class berth for United States to learn more about footwear. Opening his store in Hollywood in 1923, the boutique was a patronized by Hollywood Stars. Fame and fortune followed, the quality of his shoes garnered the shoe designer a reputation known for luxury.

1927 was the year of Ferragamo’s First Class return to Italy on board the ocean liner Roma. Returning to his native country a very successful man, settling in Florence, the center of culture, style, and fashion. Purchasing the 13th century Palazzo Spini Feroni on the bank of the Arno River in the Piazza Santa Trinita, this would become the office and atelier of the privately held Ferragamo S.p.A.

I was given a personal tour of the Ferragamo Museum. Studying Cinema Costume in university, I came across the name Ferragamo often. It is a word I associated with the heydays of Hollywood Stars: Harlow, Monroe, Kelly, and Hepburn to name a few. Beyond the beauty of a shoe, I learned Mr. Ferragamo had an intellectual curiosity the body and footwear. He studied at University of Southern California as well as patented 400 inventions concerning shoe design.

The Museo Ferragamo is housed in the basement of the Ferragamo headquarters in Florence.

The museums exhibition is titled “The Return to Italy”. Ninety years ago Salvatore Ferragamo returned after 12 years in the United States. Creating a sense of being on an luxurious ocean cruise, the color palette was blue and white with the details of the ocean and sumptuous nautical travel. The presentation is spread over 8 rooms with each having a central theme. Room 3-Folklore and the Decorative Arts in Italy. Room 4-Italian Women. Room 5- “Industrious Florence of the 1920’s. Room-6 The Italian Home Room 7-The Body in Parts Room 8-The Body and Its Aesthetics. The exhibition is organized by Carlo Sisi.

The Museo Ferragamo is located at Piazza Santa Trinita 5/R Florence, Italy

Opening time from 10 to 19:30

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Cinema

Auteur Inspired

Schlöndorff speaking to the audience.

Berlinale is around the corner, I attended a warm up event, Hellas Filmbox Berlin is an annual Greek Film Festival held to showcase New Greek Cinema. On the program is a series of up and close conversations with filmmakers titled “Box Talks”. I attended the first with German Auteur Volker Schlondoff had an influence on me would be an understatement. His 1979 film “Tin Drum” left a mark on me. I watched it on the den floor late night on cable televison. It blew me away! A whole new world of cinema opened. The characters and the narrative shocked an impressionable young teenager use to old Hollywood films.

What made a doctor’s son leave the comforts of a middle class life for Paris? Mr. Schlondoff was incredibly affable doing the conference. Telling the audience his stories on how he became a filmmaker working under Louis Malle in the French New Wave Movement and later in the New German Cinema were inspiring along with his memories of conversations with Nicolas Ray, Joseph Von Sternberg, and Billy Wilder. It was an inspiring talk for filmmakers and film lovers.

Greek Filmmaker Yannis Sakaridis shared the stage speaking about the present experience and challenges of producing feature films in Greece in current economic and social climate.

Hellas Filmbox Berlin runs through January 28th . For more information go to:http://www.hellasfilmbox.de/en/

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Fashion

France 24 from Pitti Uomo

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Fashion

The Master Shoemaker

During my time in Florence for Pitti Uomo. I had a tour of the Ferragamo Museum.

For the complete story, check back tomorrow.

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Fashion

Fashion Influence on the Spree?

Black and Paper did not actively participate in Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin the past week because 1.) We had planned on going to Paris for men’s week but the weather caused problems. 2.) Given the challenges surrounding the past Berlin Fashion Weeks we felt it was better to sit this one out and wait for the feedback. 3.) Berlin is a creative city where many come to spread their wings, but as a fashion city it will never become a major influence on the level of Alpha Fashion Capitals Paris or Milan.  Perhaps it could muscle its way into the third-tier levels of fashion cities given the importance of clothing trade fairs that occur during Fashion Week.

Did MBFW succeed this year when so many others failed in the past?  New organizer, a new location, scaled down calendar, it depended on the level of expectations.  Berlin pretends it does not want to go in the direction of other fashion weeks, they always repeat the same talking points of “being cool” “alternative”  yet organizers offer nothing new or fresh during fashion week, just runway show audiences stocked with influencers and former girlfriends of football players.

Black and Paper is not subscribing to being fashion snobs regarding Fashion Weeks but being realistic. There is great appreciation for the dedication, work, and sacrifice, the designers and their teams do to put on credible runway shows.

Berlin needs more than an idea and Public Relations to execute a plan on becoming a style influence on the Spree.

Black and Paper is based in Berlin.

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Fashion

Behind the Scenes at Miguel Vieira

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Fashion

Rock Star at Milan

Portuguese designer Miguel Vieira interprets masculine looks melted with the Rock & Roll, not veered on the safe side staying on the edge of classical looks. Stage superstar looks made of jacquards and faux fur were central themes of the collection. The press released read, “a celebration adventure” I would agree, but make the adventure concludes in a trendy night time bar.

I was not too crazy about the waist bags. I felt a bit awkward. A man wearing this look would not want that type of bulge.

Overall, Vieira’s runway show was worth the wait. Milan Fashion Week Men should be happy to have this Portuguese export.

All images taken with the Canon G1X