Categories
Cinema

The Anti-War Film On My List

I placed Elem Klimov’s 1985 anti-war work Come and See on my watch list years ago.  The film’s title comes from the Book of Revelation, “I heard the Beast say Come and See”. 

When the restored print was released in 2020, there was universal acclaim for the 142-minute film.  At times shocking, numbing, unforgettable, the director writer consciously acknowledges Aleksei Rodionov’s realistic camera work with startling character portrait compositions.

Come and See
Aleksey Kravchenko as Florya

Come and See is the story of a simple Russian peasant boy with visions of adventures fighting occupying Germans along-side the resistance.  The inescapable Hell on Earth brutality of World War 2 confronts fourteen-year-old Florya, an extraordinary performance from Aleksey Kravchenko, as youth evolves to a shattered existence. 

Klimov’s Come and See is about human beings who stopped being human, just beings.   

4.5/5 stars or maybe 5/5 stars.

Categories
Fashion Feature

Fantasy vs. Reality

The Dior Fantasy is of a handbag made with passion in a stylish factory.

The reality is very different. Dior’s handbags are made mass produced under sweatshop conditions.

Categories
Fashion Feature

Au Revior Galerias Lafayette Berlin

A sad goodbye to Galerias Lafayette Berlin, the five floor department store gave the city a bit of affordable Parisian Chic. After 28 years in the Mitte District, the celebrated building housing French Cuisine, handbags and perfume closes the doors at the end of July. Once a staple for shopping in the city, the establishment fell on hard times before COVID, with the pandemic and slow moving economic challenges, the owners announced the location would shutter back in October 2023. I will miss the baguettes and cheese section.

The Empty Shelves

Galeries Lafayette Berlin
Categories
Fashion

More Zara Than Luxury

 Luxury industry has adopted the same appalling production model as their fast fashion counterparts. Today, Dior faces charges of exploitative production practices. As the lust for high end products grew the business model changed to satisfy consumer wants. Mass consumption means mass production.  Luxury went from exclusive to inclusive.  Many highly sort after brands morphed into glorified Zaras.

Big fashion companies are integrated entities with huge supply chains needing products to sell. Big profit margins at the expense of quality, the product will suffer from a bottom line decision.  As many shoppers are learning, perhaps the pricey handbag may not be worth the extravagantly inflated price tag. 

Almost on every corner in major cities there is a luxury brand.  In London, seven Louis Vuitton stores are north of the Thames. Buyers fooled themselves into believing they had entitled admittance to a club, when in reality they had been conned.   As the headlines from Italy continue to roll, shock is turning to outrage.   A 56 euros bag selling at 2800 euros rankles. On social media, opinions range from disappointment to disgust. One Korean YouTube Blogger reported local customers are going to the Dior Store asking for their money back or returning bags purchased in the past few weeks.

The Saddle Bag HMMM!

Dior Saddle Bag
Dior Saddle Bag

Does anyone remember when the French House was giving away thousands of Saddle Bags in 2018 to online celebs? As influencers peddled luxury wares, none asked serious obvious questions concerning production techniques or quality. Brand chasers just take the gift, no questions asked.  Watching video after video from “tastemakers” many have labeled accessories in their backgrounds while telling followers about being disillusioned with Dior.  Life is cruel. Stylists loved posting big label overpriced bags on Instagram feeds. Why do brands burn excess unsold stock? Missed clues. Maybe what they were making was not as valuable as we were led to believe.   As an editor I favoured small brands.  The teams have a family feel with real knowledge of their products and production process.

When searching for validation by buying an expensive handbag, let the buyer beware.

Categories
Fashion

How Much? The Dior Markup

The expression “a sucker is born every minute” applies to luxury fashion these days.  Paris label Dior knows the world wants to belong to the bourgeois club.  Buying an expensive handbag is an arm reach into another social circle.  Emotions of supreme consumption in boutiques satisfies those temporary upward mobility urges was not lost by the fashion’s profit driven machine.

The world’s largest opulent entity, LVMH, learned how to make the desirable more accessible by making it more scarce while producing cheaper products.  A business model earning billions every year. 

When the Italian authorities announced the seizure of a factory producing Dior bag in sweat shop conditions.  Many laborers were illegal.  Beds were in the factory enabling 24-hour production.   According to reports the production site was sourced to produce handbags for the French brand.  Certainly, raised eyebrows hit the ceiling after the announcement of the cost of producing one handbag, 57 euros. The more surprising news is the end price for the aspirational buyer, 2750 euros.  That is a markup of nearly fifty times the production cost. In comparison, an Apple iPhone’s markup cost is double the manufactured price.

Admittedly, this author was not shocked by the news.  During Pitti Uomo, a tannery colleague with a factory located in the same area of LVMH’s facilities told me there were many questionable production techniques involved in the company’s workings. This is not the first time Louis Vuitton has been hit by authorities concerning production. In 2010 UK Advertising Standards Authority banned two misleading ads concerning handmade bags when in reality they were machine made.

At the time of writing the seized factory is under control of the prosecutors.

The next time gazing in front of a Dior window with frivolous desires, remember the quote: “People don’t want the truth because they don’t want the illusions destroyed.”

Categories
Fashion

Vintage Denim History

The history of denim was displayed in Berlin. While walking around a trade fair I came across a stall with vintage jean pieces. The Jeans Museum located in Zurich Switzerland contains over 14,000 pairs of jeans and jackets. Curator Ruedi Karrer is a walking encyclopedia on the textile subject.

The Jeans Museum is on Kochlistr 25. Zurich

contact-reudi@jeansmuseum.org

Categories
Fashion Feature podcast

Divinity and Sins

Spanish fashion designer Juana Martin themes for this year Paris Fashion Week Couture collection blended the age old conflict of Divinity and Sins. Fruits and fish motifs mixed with lace and gauze for the twenty four looks on the June runway show.

Categories
Before Tacky Fashion podcast

A Before Tacky Brief

Fashion designer Brett Johnson talks about creativity in this Before Tacky Brief.

Check out the entire podcast here:

Categories
Fashion

Paris Fashion Week Goes On

From Paris Fashion Week July 2024, some images from our visit in the city.

Categories
Fashion

Is Paris the Same Place?

Traveling to Paris for Fashion Week can come across as glamour meets pretentious. However, for this visit, clothing was front and center. We hit some shows, but decided to focus on behind the scenes by getting the low down on the business and trends. Designers, press relations and stores gave us opinions on topics ranging from shopping experiences to the quiet luxury shift. The industry is going through some changes.