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Fashion

Xu Zhi Looks

Xu Zhi Fall 2017 Looks from Milan Fashion Week

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Fashion

An Interview with Xu Zhi

A Black and Paper Exclusive

London based Chinese fashion designer interprets feminine looks using progressive materials paired with constructive elements of design.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, Xu founded his label in 2014, achieving success with his collection available in many prestigious stores in Asia and Europe.

The young designer showed his Fall 2017 collection in Milan during Fashion Week at the Teatro Armani with support of Mr. Armani and National Chamber of Italian Fashion.   Cutting edge denim, braids, and the color blue were the central themes along with leather.  The collection showed confidence from a young designer willing to go in his own fashion direction.

As a new designer, how are you planning to attract loyal clients?

My brand is very much based on longevity. We are taking time to really assess who the Xu Zhi woman is, and offer collections that will enhance both their lives and current wardrobes. Also, in continuing developing the house style, we hope to familiarize yet still excite our customer season after season.

You use high quality materials, where are they sourced?

It is dependent on the season, but largely from Italy and France.

How did you feel about being supported by Armani and Camera Moda at Fashion Week?

Incredibly humbling and hugely exciting that, as a young designer, our hard work has been acknowledged.

What inspired the deconstructed looks?

It originally came from the idea of trying to imitate brushstrokes with fabric, and how that could be achieved in different ways. This resulted in the deconstructed element you refer to.

What type of woman would wear look #5?

The Xu Zhi woman. Decisive, commanding and assertive – yet approachable, humble and refined.

Where will your brand be in the future? 

I think we’re growing organically – it’s difficult to say where it will be, but I’d like it to be in the closets of the woman we’re trying hard to speak to with our pieces.

Xu Zhi collection can be found in Dover Street Market, London, Lane Crawford  Hong Kong, and Opening Ceremony, Tokyo.

 

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Fashion

LGBT Torture in Chechnya from France 24

The ongoing roundup, torture, and murder of LGBT people in Chechnya is a horrifying disgrace in the 21th century.

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Fashion

Met Gala Review 2

Met Gala Review part 2

I had a chance to go over the final images from the event.   There were more looks I liked and ones I did not like.

LIKES

Natasha Poly

Liu Wen

Isabelle Huppert

DID NOT LIKE

Jessica Chaistain-The color tone and dress reminded me of a medicine bottle.

J-Lo-Blue Maleficent

Selma Hayek-Boring Balenciaga!

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Fashion

Met Gala

The spectacle that was the Met Gala 2017 theme was Rei Kawakubo, the Avant grade designer and founder of Comme des Garcons.  Known for conceptual designs, Kawakubo has been at the forefront of edgy, sometimes surreal looks since 1969.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute’s curator Andrew Bolton and Vogue US Editor in Chief Anna Wintour have called “Rei a major influence in the world of fashion.”   This writer would agree. Comme des Garcons advances fashion design in ways few other brands would even dare to try.  Kawakubo advanced the colors, shapes and materials in unusual ways that were later filtered through to mainstream fashion.

There was no knockout look this year as A-list celebrities were challenged to merge Red Carpet with Vanguard style.  Some did well; some should deserved honorable mentions, while others went over the cliff in failure.

Hit the Mark-Lily Collins, Sofia Sanchez, Ashley Graham, and Cynthia Erivo

Best Suits-Rami Malek, Cara Delevinge, and Aymeline Valade

Ralph Lauren Bedroom Collection from Bloomingdales in the form of a dress-Lena Dunham

Naked and too much sharing in all the wrong places-Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid

Bride of Dracula-Katy Perry

Misunderstood the invitation-Emma Roberts and Katie Holmes

Beetlejuice-Grace Hartzel

Surprisingly Demure-Kim Kardashian and Niki Minaj

Please buy a mirror-Madonna

 

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Cinema

Guardians of the Galaxy 2 Review

Reading over the early reviews Guardians of the Galaxy 2 one expect the filmmakers had the sequel curse that befalls so many follow ups.  Sadly, it happened, the first film in the series was a fun but the newest chapter leaves a lot to be desired, “lazy” was a term used to describe the bigger budget Marvel comic superhero saga.

Read Ex Berliner film critic David Mouriquand write up:

http://www.exberliner.com/culture/film/guardian-s-reloaded/

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Fashion

German Press Days

Upcoming styles and looks for Fall 2017 on display in Berlin during German Press Days.

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Fashion

Madrid Fashion Week from France 24

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Cinema Fashion

Timepiece Love

From the Berlinale 2017, the Glashutte Original Senator Watch.

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Cinema

The latest news about the Cannes Film Festival from France 24

The 2017 Cannes Film Festival line-up has been announced, read the feature from France 24.

http://www.france24.com/en/20170413-france-culture-cannes-film-festival-palme-dor-nominees-coppola-haneke-hazanavicius