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Feature

Pandabuy’s Open Secret

The Fake It Till You Make You culture took a hit on Wednesday.  The Chinese fashion platform Pandabuy got raided by police.  The popular app is known for selling clothing at low prices. The open secret, many fake luxury goods purchased find their way to global influencers.  TikTok accounts littered with newly purchased designer labels displayed with so much glee, even Ryan Gosling would need sunglasses.  Never mind the source of the clothing.  That questionable Dior bag sales for $176 dollars.  Why pay 1500 dollars for the real thing?  Sixty dollars for a pair of Valentino Sneakers is a steal, no questions asked.

Talking to a professional colleague about the Pandabuy story, this reflects the modern zeitgeist.   External validation not with a brand, but with an imitation. Striving for likes and clicks, openly flaunting faketry has no shame.

Recently, while attending some fashion press events, I noticed many Gen Z and Millennials attendees with emblazoned monograms on jackets, shirts and bags. Wondering how so many could afford wearing thousands of dollars on their back, questions answered. The e-commerce site understands its customers.  Pandabuy targets young digital content creators who pitch what to buy.

Shutting down one fake site, “with demand comes sellers.”  

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Fashion

At Nudie Again

Another Nudie Jeans post, The denim brand is a staple of my wardrobe. I met the founders in Berlin at Bread and Butter in the early 2000’s. The label has always stood for sustainable. I got my first pair in 2012, I’ve been a fan ever since. The Repair Bar in the Hackersham Market Store shows the level of commitment from the Swedish fashion label. The crotch came apart, probably wear and tear from riding the bike. After my drop-off, I can expect the repaired jeans back in six weeks or perhaps I may trade them in for new jeans.

NUDIE JEANS
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Fashion

The S WORD @ Press Days

During two cold days in April, Berlin’s fashion and lifestyle press agencies held the bi-annual Press Days events for journalist and influencers visiting offices around the city. 

Beauty took front and center, with high end, drugstore, traditional and new labels getting the word out their products are on the shelves.  The second noticeable trend, sustainability.  The “S” word looks great in a press release, but do consumers want to pay more for sustainable products?

German drugstore giant Rossmann introduced new lines of health and lifestyle store brand products.  Following the consumer trend, buyers are shifting their purchases downward away from premium marks to moderated priced generic store brands.  As a two-time-a-week Rossmann shopper feeling inflation increases, this is a smart move. 

Packaging, trying to get the attention of buyers on the shelves, beauty brands now emphasis packaging to stand out.  Clarins shook off its traditional staid look for a more Gen Z friendly appealing colors.

Berlin based beauty brand Kess founded in 2020 has an interesting sustainable package. Some make-up tubes can be reused, just slip in a refill.

In the curious section, the Victoria Beckham preview collection with Mango.  I always ask “Who Buys VB?”.   The London label has struggled since inception despite Victoria’s global celebrity status.  Perhaps, a capsule collection with a fast fashion store could help.  Who knows! The pieces on display were minimum chic for a woman with a full social calendar.

Rayas is a collective from Berlin producing handwoven bags in EL Salvador by local women with the proceeds benefiting the community.

Möllers Köttbullar had a tasty surprise.  The sustainable Berlin restaurant from Henrik Möller introduced a new Cinnamon Treat to the delight of visitors. 

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chat cinema. Cinema entertainment

Coppola’s Return?

The big news from Cannes Film Festival 2024 is the return of 1970’s auteur Francis Coppola with MEGALOPOLIS. The American Born director’s first feature in thirteen years. Early notices about the $120 million production have not been positive with industry professionals calling the work “Challenging”. The all star sci-fi drama includes acting heavyweights Adam Driver, Dustin Hoffman and Giancarlo Esposito will need a big push to recover its costs. This is not the first time the five time Academy Award Winner has gotten bad news during early previews. APOCALYPSE NOW equally divided opinion

1979’s Apocalypse Now

makers in 1979. The Vietnam War drama in my opinion is a work of “Bombastic Pageantry” that at times try’s to numb you into believing it is a great film.

Can Francis get his mojo back at 85? On May 17th we will see.

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Before Tacky Cinema Encore entertainment entertainment news Fashion podcast

Talking the Hi & Lo:John Galliano

The rise and fall of fashion wonderkid John Galliano was a magical story of success. Championed by industry heavy weights as a visionary, Galliano gave the world frivolity on the runways of Dior. However, under the surface of smiles, showmanship and Champagne toasts lurked an individual coming off the rails.

John Galliano
Designer John Galliano

Academy Award winning director Kevin Macdonald stripes away the gloss, putting the former Givenchy fashion house head front and center of a documentary film about a man trying to his road to redemption.

Check out the Before Tacky Podcast on the film.

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Fashion

Color and More Color from Sugaboi

From Milan Fashion Week this past February with a color from the Caribbean, fashion brand Sugaboi hit the runway with a collection blending a hot palette with a figure hugging forms. Creative head Geoff Cooper made the most of his calendar debut.

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Fashion Feature

Musical Chairs, AGAIN

The musical chairs continue in the fashion world as yet more creative heads have departed major houses.  I was in a state of shock when Pierpaolo Piccioli exited as head of Rome brand house Valentino after twenty-five years.  The couture label epitomized glamour with its monochromatic pink looks and feathered head pieces.  All great rides come to an end.  Piccioli’s clock rang.  However, the clock was ticking.  When powerhouse Kering bought 30% of the house in July 2023, changes were coming.  As a media sweetheart, Valentino matched Louis Vuitton with celebrity filled fashion shows in Paris.  As a major sales force, the numbers came up short.  Enter the former Kering alumi and past darling Alessandro Michele.  The once head of Gucci has been given the task make the sixty-four-year-old brand commercially relevant.  It is a curious mix of bling meets classical style.  It will be interesting to see the next evolution of the big V logo brand in Spring 2025 collection

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chat cinema. Cinema entertainment news

The Infuriating Cover-up on St. Helena

Screened at the 2022 Tribeca Film Festival, the documentary The Story of Bones he recently hit the headlines of the British paper The Guardian. The feature debut from duo Joseph Curran and Dominic Aubrey de Vere is the story of a purposely hidden tragedy. The Transatlantic Slave Trade’s so called “Saviors” were not as benevolent as they appeared. On St. Helena, Annina Van Neel uncovers the island’s role in an injustice involving “freed human cargo”.

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Before Tacky Fashion

On New Looks from Brett Johnson

Menswear Fashion Designer Brett Johnson returns as a guest to the Before Tacky Fashion podcast. The head of the Milan based brand will talk about his latest collection and the state of men’s style.

Brett Johnson coming soon to Before Tacky Fashion Podcast
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Beauty Fashion Feature

FACES IN 2024

Looking back on Fashion Week, faces that struck the camera.