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Fashion

Back Again in XBerg

Recently, we returned to Kruezberg for dinner at Möllers Köttbullar. The quality of the restaurant is still up to par. The french fries taste like potatoes. Henrik Moeller’s attention to sourcing the best ingredients continues months after the our first interview from the Berlin establishment.

Clipper Travel Podcast Möllers Köttbullar
Clipper Travel Podcast Möllers Köttbullar

Möllers Köttbullar is located at Köpenicker Str. 190, 10997 Berlin

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Fashion podcast

Sneaker Style from Osaka

Brightway from Osaka produces luxurious sneakers made from Japanese leather. The three generation footwear makers have a philosophy: “A Pair to Love Even After 10 Years.” Clic below to watch the Before Tacky podcast interview

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Fashion Feature

A TailSpin

An insolvency sent shock waves through the German Retail and fashion world. The KaDeWe Group announced it was unable to meet its financial obligations. The Berlin based luxury department store chain operates the famous KaDeWe in Berlin, Alsterhaus in Hamburg and Oberpollinger in Munich continues to operate, for how long? Brick and mortar retailers have suffered over the years with the rise of online shopping, Covid lockdowns and inflation, the high-end houses were not immune from these pressures. The KaDeWe is now in a tailspin.

Founded in 1907, the Kaufhaus des Westens has been a beacon of consumption for generations. The food court floors are gathering spots to see and be seen.

Blame Who?

The reason for the bankruptcy has been blamed on high rent charged by parent company Signa Group. True or not, the signals coming from management has been confusing. Unpaid invoices dating back to September 2023, threatened legal action, accusations being hurled, unpacking the corporate drama will take time the stores may not have. Suppliers have pulled stock from the shelves, brands no longer sell on the sales floor. Questions about restocking for the new season are up in the air. The fifth floor homewares department may close because customers are not allowed to buy items.

Visiting the KaDeWe, I wanted to see the damage for myself. A “wake” is the best description for the scene. Empty shelves, roped off areas, sales staff wearing tight smiles unable to comment, not sure if they will have positions in the coming weeks.

Could this be the end of a seven floor fashion landmark? Will a bailout happen in time? As the shopping temple’s downward spiral goes into a second week, the KaDeWe’s creditability is on the online. Vendors could completely jump ship. Customers will start staying away from a decaying palace.

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Before Tacky Fashion podcast

Detroitissimi and Fashion

Detroit, The Motor City, is famous for cars and manufacturing. The once industrial hub of America home to once corporate automobile giants General Motors, Ford and Chrysler is reinventing itself with creative industries. Detroitissimi at Pitti Uomo showcased the cities top fashion heads. BM-AC, Bosweel Millinery, Detroit Denim, Deviate, High’s Adventure Gear, K. Walker Collective, Modern Athlete and Stormy Kromer represented a new style of design and production from The Great Lake State. The collective heads shared a passion for quality and a dedication to a less but better model of clothing.

Click below for the Before Tacky Podcast talk.

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Fashion

Original over Expressionless

When a campaign is out of the box, it should be appreciated. Normally, fashion brands employ the same template. How many expressionless face models have we seen peddling the latest expensive this or that in glossy images? For a creative business, the fashion industry can be numbing with the same staid images.
Brooklyn jewelry and handbag designer Alexis Bitter took a cue from different influences by imagining a universe with the cast of characters that border on tragic comedy, integrating branding and seeding with clever storytelling in short Instagram videos.

Old money maven Margaux and abused assistant Jules or Jules are the golden Manhattan team, a modern dysfunctional duo that makes the new Sex and the City reboot feel wooden.
Theresa is straight from the John Waters casting call. The fabulous Coney Island native has her seven teen fans on TikTok and a husband who loves Fox News.

The FLU newscasters, a bull eyes parody of modern journalism with serpentine smiles glossed over with high-tech graphics.

Alexis Bitter proves originality and risk can triumph.

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Fashion Feature

In My Wardrobe From Japan

The J-Quality Factory Brand Project is a project bringing together eleven certified Japanese garment producers showcasing the menswear fashion prowess of the island nation. Not knowing what expect the first time I met the team last year at Pitti Uomo, the guided tour of selected pieces got my attention. In 2024, for the second appointment, there were more and better pieces. The cashmere sweaters (below) came from the wings from an angel, soft, light and vivid brushed to achieve a distinctive luxe feel. A piece from these collections would have a prominent place in my wardrobe.

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Before Tacky podcast

Inspiration from a TMI Moment

A person never knows when or why an inspiring time will trigger an idea: looking at a painting, hearing a piece of music or from a TMI moment. Everton McDougall got triggered to start his brand Haus by Everton from a frank conversation. The Toronto native needed comfortable and stylish home gear during the lockdown. Today, the men’s footwear designer’s brand is in stores.

For this Before Tacky podcast Everton talks about the why behind the founding of fashion label.

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Fashion

Hot Faces from Milan Fashion Week Men 2024

Hot Faces from Milan Fashion Week Men, at the presentations we made some pictures of models working. It’s a hard job but someone has to do it.

Hot Face from Milan Fashion Week Men 2024
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Fashion podcast

959 Bags Redone

From Pitti Uomo a Before Tacky quick talk with Paolo Ferrari about his new bags for 959.

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Fashion

Guess Jeans Repositions

I remember the Guess Jean ads from the 90s. Those sexy images of models and celebrities posing in soft black and white images produced by some of the world’s most famous photographers, including Ellen von Unwerth. The pictures defined an era of denim marketing.

Guess Jeans
90’s ad with Ann Nicole Smith


Founded in 1981 by four brothers, Georges, Paul, Armand and Maurice Marciano in South of France. Moving to the United States, the Marcianos found great success, starting a high-end denim brand mingled with the California lifestyle.

At Pitti Uomo 105, the Los Angeles based label had a bit of relaunch. Using the menswear trade fair, Guess had an impressive display of showing the company’s past, present and future. Using the Florence music hall, representatives gave a tour along with a meet and greet of the installation, showing its evolution to sustainable production and new store designs.


Will it work? In many ways, Guess fell off the radar of trend conscious shoppers. Facing competition from behemoths Zara and H&;M, repositioning a fashion brand targeting young buyers will not be easy. The well known red question mark inside triangle has it work cut out for itself luring customers who shop with emotional attachments to apps searching for cheap clothing.

Is success written in the future, or will Guess just continue to cruise in the slow lane? If the Florence presentation was down payment on the next forty years.