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Fashion Feature

Bondage and Social

It had to happen sooner or later. Trying to be relevant at the time being edgy, the silk threads will hit the fan. Balenciaga, the French Fashion House learned the hard way. The Bondage Teddy Doll Toddler campaign crashed the same as if a German Leader singing Beyonce at a karaoke bar. The fall out continues, at present everyone is “reevaluating” their relationship with the brand.

Looking over the images, I wonder what happened to the filters. Certainly one person at the multi billion luxury clothier could see a yellow light. Yet, for some reason I have a feeling they coward, preferring to be another deaf person in the room of blind people. You have to understand, the fashion business is allergic to the truth. One contrary word to group think, banishment!

Gemma Gvasalia has a done a seven year job of transitioning the fabled label to the top of fashion league. Making collections tailored fit for Instagram. Getting big names not only sitting front row but also in the runway shows. Coveted $750 worn High Tops trainers fly out the store. The $1,300 mini bag has become a must have. Any wonder why no one challenges his opinions? Yet, even the Georgian born designer learned, “live by the Gram, you can die on the Gram.”

Eating a slice of Humble Pie never killed anyone. The statements coming from Balenciaga have been the same as a screeching bird with two broken wings. First, scrubbing its Instagram account with the exception of a statement posting. Then saying the production company was responsible for the content. Launching a million dollar lawsuit against the creative team. Throwing a borrowed bucket of gasoline on a fire does not extinguish the flame. Owe up the mistake. In a few days the world will move on to the next social media outrage.

As far as I am concerned, “yes” the pictures are in poor taste. But then again, I would never pay $750 for a pair of worn High Tops.

Categories
Cinema entertainment news

The Oscar Race For Short Films in 2022

Presenting varied International Short films that are Oscar eligible. The standard of these films are original and mostly excellent.

Starting with Tech to the Future by Sandro Monetti, not surprisingly, it is something otherworldly. The only non-fiction film here, the mood is like a news item straight out of Robocop. On-screen narrator Francis Hellyer proclaims that technology will lead us to a brighter future. His defiant sound bite: “Forget all the dystopian doom and gloom.” Subsequently, he visits various innovative tech industries. These range from a flying car development to AI digital replicas – a cloned Bruce Willis anyone?

Nakam from Ukraine is based on a true story in World War Two. It cultivates a good use of period setting, atmosphere and mise-en-scene. Ultimately it seems to question the circumstances and morality of killing, regardless of justified conviction.

The Bangladesh entry Moshari (a Mosquito net) hauntingly builds up suspense and tension well. This is achieved by allowing the psychology and paranoia its own freedom of projection. Most importantly, it pulls back from the border of implausibilities. These mature qualities serve the denouement well.

Meanwhile, The Silent Echo is a bitter-sweet snapshot of aspirations to escape remote life. A young Nepali singer travels by long-distance bus for a music talent contest. However, his performance does not get the response he hoped for. His dedicated efforts in vain, he travels back home, to the beginning again. Silent Echo won London’s Raindance Film Festival Shorts in 2021.

The Tommaso Acquarone-directed I miei occhi (My Eyes) concerns a woman caught up in traffic. Speaking on her mobile phone, she is already containing private tension. Soon, she offers a lift to a street performer she has seen before. The rest of the film promises greater suspense but ultimately reaches a juncture. Therefore, a good idea gets stuck in a dead end.

A wayward teenager in The Wake is frustrated by his live-wire father and passive mother. Accompanied by his deaf younger brother he seeks an outlet for his emotions. Breaking into houses and stealing token items he dubiously achieves this aim. However, an inexorable trajectory occurs after he finds a gun in a local house. The somewhat unexpected ending rounds off an original take on the suspense drama.

Finally, War of Colors is a heartfelt plea for sympathy for those born with the albino condition. A pretty, intelligent, and sensitive young woman finds discrimination even within her own race. Her brave and disheartening struggle for acceptance is both compelling and thought-provoking. Diandra Forrest excels as the central character in this another worthy Oscar short contender.

~ By Steven Yates entertainment contributor.

Categories
Fashion

Now On My Radar

I got invited to an event from the Superdry’s public relations team to check out the store, look over the pieces and choose what I would like to wear. Who turns down free clothes?Admittingly, the brand was not on my radar. I met the team at their event in Florence at Pitti Uomo, yet for some reason I never followed up on the relationship. The British brand was founded eighteen years ago. According to the press agent, outerwear were the key pieces of the brand’s early years, mainly parkers. The two story Kurfürstendamm Berlin flagship store on has a wide selection of mens and women’s wear styles. A person could spend hours trying on pieces. There is even a vintage sportswear section.

Going over the mens fashion, Superdry is influenced by American and Japanese styles, varsity jackets layered with graphic prints. There is no shortage of monogrammed hoodies and t-shirts to match with denim wear.

As I was not familiar with the Cheltenham base company, the sales assistant showed me around. Granted being a press invitee I expected a well mannered staff, but the genuineness was authentic. Even saying “ask me anything, I know the whole collection.” Shockingly, she did. Her knowledge made it easier to decide what to choose.

Superdry advertises itself as a premium brand not the typical ready to wear high street retailer. The black jeans I have are comfortable. The green jacket is stylish. However, longevity is judge of quality. For me, if I can wear clothing for over a year without major wear and tear, it’s good.

Stay tuned for follow up stories.

Categories
Fashion

Musical Chair at Gucci

I need a crystal ball to keep up with the creative head resignations, musical chairs.

The shocking news of designer Alessandro Michele departing Gucci reverberated through the fashion industry. Since 2015 the Rome born head was front of the center of the brand. Michele has been the Crown Prince of Modern Bling with collections primed for social media postings. Twenty years ago the Rome born creative director joined the house in the accessory wear division.

It’s hard to believe Gucci parent company Kering letting one of the top moneymakers and high profiled talent who seemed to flourish in the corporate clothing world. Only a few months ago Alessandro staged a star studded runway show on Hollywood Blvd. As with many great designers, Michele understood the theatrics of the business, walking up the stairs of the Met Gala or twins walking down the runway, Gucci was always in papers, magazines and online. Or being tied to the hip to superstars Harry Styles and Jared Leto, the Florence based house seemed to define the moment. But no all was well. In recent hours reports filtered out sales were down in key markets. Is the world tiring of the over the top brocades and ostentatious pieces?

It’s all about the Social

With 49.6 million Instagram followers, Gucci is about sending the style signal of wearing your wealth on your back. Showing off is good. After all part of their buyer fun is the over the top appeal. Advertising to the world, a “Look at Me” attitude. Gender is a relic of the past.

With the exit before the upcoming fashion weeks in January and February, a major fashion house is under the microscope. Who will be the replacement? As a fashion professional, the announcement came as a shock. Can a successor continue on the same path? Doubts are singing in my head. As the world enters an economic downturn, will Gucci tone down? It is hard to imagine.

We have to wait and see what happens at Gucci. CEO Marco Bizzarri will have to move fast concerning a replacement announcement.

Certainly Alessandro Michele’s career is not over, just moving onward.

Categories
Fashion podcast

What’s Going On?

For out Before Tacky podcast we discuss what is happening in the fashion world. Reflecting these times of certainty brands, magazines and buyers chug along trying to figure out a right path.

Lyn and Taiwo join the discussion from Milan and London.

Categories
Fashion

Colors and Preps The Korean Way

Korea has emerged as a creative power on the modern scene. From global television series to pop music acts taking the world by storm, Korean culture is on the march, fashion included.

Beyond Closet’s founder and creative head Ko Tae-yong grabbed my attention from his 2017 Colette collaboration. His classic preppy influenced looks move from minimal to enriched looks. Founded in 2008, Beyond Closet has become a force in the Seoul Fashion scene with its use of colors, prints and graphics.

The Black and Paper interview with fashion designer Ko Tae-yong.

Ko Tae-yong at Seoul Fashion Week

As a menswear designer, how would you define the modern masculine style?

It has become a world that is less official and has less restrictions than in the past. Modern men are even showing the tendency they are not really limited by the traditional gender stereotype like “skirts are for only women.” They are sensitive to trends, but they also have a tendency to keep their own style as they did from the past.

How did you become influenced by the “preppy look?”

Most middle and high schools in Korea’s wear school uniforms. As I experienced the school uniform culture, I became interested in uniform in other countries and it developed my interest in Western culture. The fact that things inspired by the school uniform culture could be applied in broader real life. It can create a timeless new culture when combined with classic pieces. That is what attracted me a lot.

The latest collection moved to casual sophistication, do you think men want to be more dressed up but without a tie?

Even if the formula for men’s clothing changes over time, I think men believe classical and formal clothing will last forever. It is part of the charm of menswear. So, I mix up things from the past into new things.

Please walk us through look 11 and 13 from the Spring Collection.

In Look #11, the military-patterned outerwear was reconstructed with light knit material and styled with linen pants of irregular stripes. I talked about a lighter, lyrical and vintage military.

The 13th look is attractive with romantic moods composed of vintage things. Python boots are a heterogeneous element in them, but they are objects that show novelty by adding points.

You paint on pieces, is this part of your design technique?

They are Contemporary Art Inspiration and Handmade Elements that inspire me deeply.

Are there any plans on selling your brand in the United States or Europe?

Beyond Closet and I loved America and Europe. We also held fashion shows and communicated with them through pop-up stores and various projects. It is always welcome to showcase our brand if there is a good opportunity.

Categories
Fashion podcast

Who Knows Anything

Life is uncertain these days. Will buying a designer bag make you feel better? The Before Tacky panels discusses the present state of fashion.

Before Tacky

Stay tuned for the episode. Check out other Before Tacky Podcast episodes on our YouTube Channel.

Categories
Feature

Winter has arrived

berlin

Winter finally arrived in Berlin. The first light snow hit the street.

Categories
Fashion

The Superdry Surprise

I got invited by the Superdry press team to look over the British retailer’s clothing line at the Berlin Kudamm store. I was surprised by the wide selection and good service of the two story flagship location at the Kranzler Eck.

This is a preview of the upcoming story.

Categories
Technology

Luxe and FIFA

The FIFA World Cup starts this weekend. If you have deep pockets and want the ultimate viewing experience check out the new displays from Loewe. The historic German brand just released a series of televisions just in time for the global sports event. The razor thin ICONIC display is a technical marvel at 7999 euros.