At the Anamorphic Club Cafe Berlin we talked to Cinematographer Jeff Jur about Dirty Dancing on enduring quality of the 1987 film.
Author: Editor
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Calvin Klein Returns
The most anticipated runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Calvin Klein. After several years off the schedule the iconic label announced a new collection would be shown from a new creative head. Veronica Leoni, the Italian designer took charge of the famed brand. Calvin Klein transcended fashion, from jeans, slogans, scents, ads and commercials, the New York clothier became a part of the cultural landscape.
Mixing minimalism, athleticism and sensuality a Calvin Klein became one of the top fashion brands in the world.
I’m a sexual person, and that’s reflected in my clothes and my advertisements. Calvin Klein
After selling the company to PVH in 2002, Klein stepped away from the fashion world. Raf Simons briefly took the helm from 2016 to 2018. What looked like a perfect fit on paper, soon became a slow-moving clash between creative vision and corporate reality, the Belgium designer left. After the departure, Calvin Klein stopped presenting runway shows. Instead corporate heads focused on the lucrative under garments, accessories and perfume lines.
Now, Veronica is at bat, the first female to head CK. The former Celine and The Row designer has the task of breathing new life into the iconic fifty-seven year old clothier.
I would like to praise the looks but for one reason or another, the feeling of confusion enters my head. The gender mixed show included shapes and colors that came across as robotic inspired. The lack of fluid sexuality for a brand known for sex appeal got lost in the modern translation. Where were the bodies? The masculinity. The femininity.
The streamlined vertical aesthetic took a turn in Leoni’s interpretation. Taken away to the closet replaced with added addendums fitting the times: slouchy jackets with elongated sleeves.
Was this a great collection from Calvin Klein? I expect to see a more concise line the next time.
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Keeping Is Getting Harder
Today another creative head departed from a big house. Keeping up with who is where, for how long is getting harder. This time Sabato De Sarno “quit” Gucci after only two years. It is no secret the Italian Fashion House has struggled in the past years. Sales have fallen to the point of panic for parent company Kering as buyers turn to other labels.
Kim Jones walked away from Dior. The shocking news came right after presenting his latest collection in Paris for menswear week. The British born designer made a mark at the top of the heritage house with a modern interpretation of tailored pieces.
There was a time in the fashion business when longevity matter, not anymore. Taking the job as a head designer should come with a stylish 48 hour bag.
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By Handbag Design
Coming soon, Up To You Anthology is a handbag brand with an ethos based on design.
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In The Couture League
I met Sohee Park in 2022 during her presentation supported by Dolce&Gabbana. The London based designer impressed with a collection that was both stunning and assured. Now in 2025, the Korean born creative head is presented collections in Paris for Couture Week. GOOD JOB!
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Giants Can Fall
Once upon a time Kodak was one the largest companies in the world. Digital cameras hit the market. General Motors controlled 60% of the US auto market. The Corolla came along. Nokia sat on almost 40% of global mobile phone sales. iPhone was released. AOL had 30 million users in 2000, by far the largest in the world. Customers switched to broadband. MySpace was the social media site. Suddenly young people moved to Facebook. These giants fell, some faster than others. They were unable to adapt to changing times. As the shockwaves continue to pulsate throughout the global tech sector. Could this David slay the giants? That is the question.
Brazen
DeepSeek, the Chinese start-up founded in 2023 scaled the walls of success to become a conversation. AI was supposed to be the terrain of the giants, not anymore. A brazen newcomer crashed the scene. Even President Trump weighed in saying “It’s a wake-up call.” A new competitor arrived, one that cannot be bought or suppressed.
Not only did DeepSeek beat the US giants, the young Hangzhou young upstart did it cheaper and faster than expected. While Silicon Valley sat back raking in investment for the AI, High-Flyer, DeepSeek’s parent company, outflanked the Goliaths. In one day, tech stocks dropped $1 trillion in value. Maybe Wall Street knew had a premonition of what is coming. In the past it took years for companies to fall from the top. For the hyper connected age where change comes fast, within twenty months a once household brand could be regulated to the graveyard, then forgotten. Technology is an unforgiving field that moves forward, stomping over stumblers.
For the first time, The United States tech platforms must change to a catch up plan in a field they dominate. A nightmare could become a reality, a decline to irrelevancy. So significant is the threat, Fortune Magazine reported Meta head Mark Zuckerberg has convened a war room to counter DeepSeek’s new Chatbot.
The well-known expression from the Chinese philosophy Taoism: What goes up, must come down. These words are resonating in Silicon Valley.
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Couture Week Looks 2
Paris Fashion Week Couture continues.
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Couture 25
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A Feast at Every Turn
The Duomo of Siena in Siena Italy is a remarkable piece of 13th century religious architecture. The level of stunning details is a feast for the eyes at every turn.
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Fashion Views from Pitti Uomo
A quick conversation on fashion from Florence at Pitti Uomo with Ilario Esposito and Taiwo Meghoma.