I like shopping in Hamburg. The stores clustered around the center range from mainstream ready to wear mixed with luxury brands to fine vintage boutiques and camera shops.





I like shopping in Hamburg. The stores clustered around the center range from mainstream ready to wear mixed with luxury brands to fine vintage boutiques and camera shops.
For its eighth annual edition, the Bentonville Film Festival once again purported to be all-inclusive. Its tagline reads: ‘Championing Women and Diverse Voices’. Academy Award winner Geena Davis chairs this festival in Arkansas State. Physical events took place from June 22nd-26th, with virtual events running to July 3rd.
The Competition Narrative entry The Unknown Country was directed by Morrisa Maltz. This road movie’s documentary-style premise seamlessly morphs into its fictional narrative. A grieving young woman called Tana (Lily Gladstone) is invited to reconnect with her estranged family. Sparse dialogue and compelling atmosphere exemplify this surreal journey from the Midwest to the Texas-Mexico border. The radio sound collages in the car serve as alternative episodic sequences. The overall effect sums up the contemporary psychological state of America.
Also in competition, Straighten Up and Fly Right directed by Kristen Abate and Steven Tanenbaum. The directors were also the co-writers, producers and lead characters. Kristen is a 20-something New Yorker suffering from a severe case of ankylosing spondylitis (AS). This inflammatory disease of the spine causes Kristen chronic pain and reduced mobility. A very personal film, co-director Steven Tanenbaum also suffers from ankylosing spondylitis. Despite its bleak scenario, the film is courageous and avoids sentiment.
Some well-chosen shorts entries featured in the Competition Documentary section. The Weight of It concerns Maria, a breast-cancer survivor. Readjusting to her new life after a mastectomy and breast implant, we witness her strength and resolve. The US entry Seasick is a coming-of-age LGBTQ story set on a ferry. Sadie is an adolescent who is not yet ready to come out. She also has a crush on her shift captain, Jess. Director Lindsey Ryan handles the sensitive subject matter with charm and humor.
The Competition Episodic section blurs the lines between short documentary and essay film. Tiffani Alexander’s The Tale of 2 Music Cities shows us Nashville’s overlooked musical heritage. The Tennessee town is more famous for its Country and Western music scene. However, the roots of the city’s musical lineage underlines the contribution of Black music. Otherwise, Shadow Work is the film debut of Kary Collier Jr. An intense caustic analysis, it focuses on a PhD graduate who confronts his alter ego.
Two of the Animated Shorts were the work of Canadian production company ACE Film. Pivot analyses the rites of passage and identity through a mother and daughter relationship. The Butterfly Affect is social commentary, looking at the self-worth of a young cashier.
At the awards, actor Fin Argus won Rising Star for the feature Every Day in Kaimuki. His producer Effie Brown took the Rising to the Challenge Award. Gretchen Stoeltje’s Shouting Down Midnight won the jury award for Best Documentary Feature. Georgia, by Jayil Pak, was selected for Best Short Film and Carlos Cardona’s Chiqui won for Best Episodic.
By Steven Yates
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A revisit to Laboe, Germany. The Northern Baltic City is a destination for Kite Surfing.
The fashion collection many have been waiting for has dropped. The Gap, Ye and Balenciaga collaboration debuted. My first impression. Grim. Misshapen. It took a “genius” to design this!
Kayne and Gap announced a 10 year partnership in June 2020. For one side the deal made commercial sense, while for the other, a throw of the dice hoping for a lucky double 6 retail turnaround.
It has been no secret the San Francisco based casual wear retailer has been in trouble for a long time. Once a closet staple Gap became a bit boring. Hail Mary Plays are always risking. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t. Gap has been closing stores for decades. Once upon a time the American Mall mainstay had the pulse of what buyers wanted, cool ads, colorful jeans at good prices yet somewhere the retailer lost its way as Zara took the style trendsetting crown. Turning to the headline grabber Ye confirmed what fashion insiders knew, Gap was rudderless, looking for a Captain.
The always in the media Rapper Kanye West or Ye needs no introduction. If a person has not heard about his fashion ambition, maybe they were visiting Mars for the past fifteen years. Virgil Abloh was a Ye collaborator before becoming creative head of Louis Vuitton menswear. West with Adidas netted billionaires from their sneaker collection collaboration.
The storied French fashion house Balenciaga run by Demma Gvasalia brings chic continental creditability to this “creative exploration”.
The moment arrived on Monday 26th. Finally, buyers and fans got to see, touch and purchase the first pieces. According to the New York Times article “Is this partnership a cautionary tale or a new model for fashion to come?” The 36 engineered pieces by Balenciaga are a technical revision of classic Gap styled hoodies and t-shirts.
The Gap’s 1960’s California optimistic heritage has been replaced by cheerless style gear.
The Gap Times Square store was re-designed with a dark interior with clothing piled on a table as if in a backstreet vintage shop. Just have at it. No, this is not a joke. Not even racks or neatly folded shirt stacks. Imagine a going out of business sale at Woolworth’s.
Some in the fashion press have been going Goo Goo Ga Ga over this spectacle. Not here. Is this collection a joke? Making fun of buyers who fall the gag.
The die hard fans waiting outside before the store opening in New York City to be the first to buy pieces with the appeal of a bleak video game character. Being hip in the fake til you make it culture comes at a price. Gap built its brand on affordability, suddenly, a $320 for a hoodie, $190 dove print t-shirt.
Was it worth it? It depends on who you ask. For Ye, another notch on the belt to becoming fashion mogul. As for for Gap, the retailer needs all the attention it can get. All the recent headlines have been bad. Who gets excited about their namesake Khaki Pants? Balenciaga sent out the word, their part in this trio is done. A merciful “Thank You” to Paris.
Is this fashion’s future or present reality? Sometimes it is better to just back and watch situations unfold from a sideline.
Lastly, if I go to a Gap store, I’ll stick to the basic white t for $15.
The Christopher Street Day Berlin celebration came roaring back in 2022. After two years in a moribund state, Gay Pride hit the streets of the capital city for a 7k walk of fun and pride. Walking around I witnessed everyone celebrating having a good time. In the words of George Clinton, “Free Your Mind and Your Ass will follow”.
The New York City Film Festival unspooled its usual cinema fair of polished works by filmmakers from around the world. The mixture of physical and virtual continued this past June for ten days.
God Said Give Em’ Drum Machines is the story of how a sound was created in the Detroit music scene. Check out the Chat Cinema interview with director Kristian Hill.
McEnroe, director Barney Douglas’ story of the legendary “Superbrat” John McEnroe is a compelling documentary on a great tennis star. A humanising portrait of a man coming to grips with his illustrious yet troubled past.
All Man-International Male Story from Bryan Darling and Jesse Finley Reed is for anyone who remembers the sensual if not soft porn International Male Catalogs of the 80’s and 90’s. From humble beginnings flying by the sit of the pants to global success the documentary charts the raise pages sent to men all over the world.
Britain has always considered itself on the moral side of the Slave Trade having abolished the institution in 1807. The Story of Bones by Joseph Curran and Dominic Aubrey de Vere asks many unsettling questions about the country’s role with the treatment of human cargo. The effects of this are felt today on the isle of St. Helen.
Leave No Trace has generated a large amount of trace. Rightfully. Watching Irene Taylor’s devastating accounts of sexual abuse cover up in the Boy Scouts of America left me raw. For decades the civic organization knew their All American Clean image was a cover for attracting sexual predators. Anger, regret, sadness with a lost of trust combine to make this powerful documentary a raw emotional watch.
Google whistleblower told the world the tech giant has an AI sentient, a shutter went around the world. So happens at this time I screened Sophia. A passionate inventor or mad scientist, Jon Kasbe and Crystal Moselle’s documentary on David Hanson is a character study of a brilliant man on a mission to change the way we interact technology.
Heidi Ewing and Rachel Grady took a high morale approach to the documentary work Endangered. Produced by Ronan Farrow, the 4th Estate is under global threat. I can’t say I 100% liked this slickly produced myopic morality tale on journalism considering with public distrust of media at an all time high. Grady and Ewing never why? Frankly, YouTube commentators taking a stand against news censorship are more interesting than this victimhood tale.
The Belgium dark comedy Employee of the Month by Veronique Jadin gets a mention. Who does’t want to kill their work colleagues? Ines, played by Jasmina Douieb, answers the question further.
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