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Fashion

Has Luxury Fashion Come To This?

At the end of 2024, the Luxury Fashion Industry finds itself in a major predicament of its own making. Consumers have caught onto the game, now brands are bracing for the backlash. Buyers are no longer charmed by the “expensive” handbag and other accessories with sky high price tag.

The recent headlines report shopper fatigue for luxury goods. When a major newspaper reads “Death Spiral of Luxury Fashion” there is a big problem. In lock corporate step, houses evolved in Overpriced Zaras, neglecting quality for quantity, big fast profit over long term customer loyalty. Speaking to a colleague concerning these issues, he told a story of buyer’s remorse of people complaining about a certain top tier brand’s handbag coming apart at the seams after a few months of carriage.

It will be an interesting 2025 to see if the Luxury Fashion can regain its footing or continue on# a downward spiral. Only time will tell.

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Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Men Gives Good Face

Milan mens fashion is not only about style. The guys give at the presentation give good face. It will be a pleasure to cover the menswear event again this winter.

Milan Fashion Week starts January 17th.

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Book Review chat cinema. Cinema entertainment news

Is the Course Change Working?

What happens when a course change may fail before the actual implementation? The 75th edition of the Berlinale could soon become a case study answering this question.   Less than two months before the German Capital hosts filmmakers, headlines rolling out have painted an unflattering portrait of the Potsdamer Platz headquarters.   Head Tricia Tuttle makes her debut February as the first female head of the international film hub.  Although, reading recent Berlinale news coverage, the American may want to take cover in a dark movie theater in order to forget all the troubles.  

Berlinale

Budget cuts, lack of screens, controversial past winners have taken a toll on the Berlinale’s reputation in the global filmmaker community.  Global filmmakers may skip Berlin, weary of being labeled antisemitic because of their stance on the Middle East conflict.  Instead of celebrating cinema, captions reading “a balancing tightrope”, “unwanted fears”, “revising the budget every month” are overshadowing a cinematic event trying to regain competitive footing with Cannes and Venice Festivals. 

As for the movies announced so far, the schedule comes as torpid, local, lacking big draws, a zero-sum excitement level.  The Competition category announcement occurs on January 21st. Perhaps then, the Berlinale can regain some it’s lost luster.

The Berlinale starts February 13th.

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Fashion Feature

Christmas Guide 2024

2024 is the year where less is more, nothing over the top. This gift guide is about keeping it down to Earth with style. Do not spend a fortune to give something nice this Christmas.

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Fashion

The Fashion Musical Chair

The Fashion Musical Chairs Contest continue.  In one week, three brands made big changes.  Thankfully, I have a chalkboard to help keep up with who is where, just erase then add a new name.

When John Galliano took over as Creative Head of Martin Margiela, the British designer had come in from the cold after being ousted from Dior.  Ten years later the partnership has ended.  After months of rumors, Mr. Galliano announced his resignation from the Paris House.  Admittedly sad news, the 64-year-old brought a creative romanticism to the label.  The runway shows were fantasy run from surreal to vintage sumptuous fantasy of diverse materials.  There was no announcement on where John Galliano will go.  Perhaps, his own label or retire, we have to wait and see.

Margiela

Chanel finally announced a new head six months after Virginie Viard’s exit.  The uber luxury brand named Matthieu Blazy as the new creative head.  Coming from Bottega Veneta, Bailey will be in charge of ten collections a year.  I see a lot of energy drinks in the Belgium born designer’s future.  Chanel is more than a brand but a cultural tentpole for fashion and style.  How will Blazy interrupt the classic Tweed Jacket?   Recently, the Chanel runway shows have lacked the grand pageantry typical under Lagerfeld, possibly, the dull period in the Grand Palais is over.

As one designer leaves, another enters, Bottega Veneta placed Louise Trotter as Matthieu Blazy’s replacement.  Coming from Carven, a brand known for oversized looks and exaggeration, Trotter’s view with Italian Tailoring should be interesting. 

Fashion is about change.

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Travel

Xmas Throwback in Nuremberg

Some throwback images from the famous Christmas Market in Nuremberg, Germany.

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Fashion

Fabulously Applying the Same Remedy.

In the “Here We Go Again” category, another month, another headline on layoffs at the big publishing houses.  It is hard to imagine who will be left to write about a perfume review. It is hard to see just how many more staff members can be fired from a company becomes dysfunctional. Applying the same not working remedy for the same long term illness has not worked.

First, Hearst, the Eight Avenue headquartered publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Cosmopolitan announced 200 employees would be fired.  President Debi Chirichella gave the usual excuse of allocating resources to support goals, etc. The reality is the company may employ A.I. to produce articles.  Hearst’s flagship title Harper’s Bazaar will publish one less print edition next year, from ten to nine.

The second announcement of fashion magazines meltdown came from Conde Nast.  The collection of prestigious magazines released underperforming financial figures.  On Thursday December 5th, GQ heads rolled along with other workers.  Last year Group leader Roger Lynch fired 5% of the staff, decamped to cheaper digs in London and New York City while trying to pivot to digital realms. Claiming ad buys are down, costs are up, the Vogue owner is seeking new bottom line cuts.

Plush Meltdown

As this plush content calamity happens, the great survivor Anna Wintour continues with the title Chief Content Officer over several titles. The simple question is, why? The strategy of jettisoned international editors has failed, one template for all local versions has failed.  Editors are now working across multiple titles and platforms.  What made Vogue magazines unique has become as exciting as eating at a global fast-food chain. Conde Nast became a sinking brand extension of Wintour.

Hearst and Conde Nast are going to have to search for new ideas as 2025 looks to be difficult year with conflicts, consumer pressures and business cutbacks. Will the once uncontested style gate keepers be relevant? Dinosaurs existed until one day they did not.

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chat cinema. Cinema entertainment news podcast

The Courage of Speaking Out

Croat Director Nebojša Slijepčević lifter a page from a tragic event in his region’s history for the the short film “The Man Who Could Not Remain Silent“. The story of a train ride that turned into courage and loss during The 90’s Balkan War. This Chat Cinema Podcast talks to the Cannes Film Festival Palm d’ Or winner about the circumstances and speaking out in the face of brutality.

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Fashion Feature

Again in Prato

Another day another fashion accessory scandal hits the airwaves.  Once again Prato finds itself at the center of suspect labor practices.  This time Aljazeera uncovered more shoddy production in the Tuscany city.  Major fashion brands employing contractors, sub-contractors and sub-sub-contractors engage in cat and mouse games in order to circumvent Italian Labor laws.

As luxury increased prices on one end, they sought out cheaper production on the other.  Capitalism rewards those who exploit more efficiently Workers earning as little as 3 euros an hour work a twelve-hour day, sometimes six days a week manufacturing glamorous leather pieces that sell for as much as 3400 euros in high-end shops.   

There is nothing wrong having a labeled expensive handbag.  But the dilemma is the hidden or not hidden mechanics of the product coveted.  An expensive leather handbag is a sought of trophy. However, what if the prize comes from an unscrupulous source?  The most convenient human emotion to access is denial.

The brazenness of luxury brands and producers to almost flaunt their less than ethical ways is baffling. Supply chains are easily traceable in 2024.  Everyone has a camera and a social media account with potential to post a brand damaging image.

A big leather factory with illegal sweatshop labor wouldn’t go unnoticed. Yet, why are the companies relaxed about sourcing products? Because executives know consumers will forget a scandal. Certainly the outrage will be hot and loud at the beginning, then back to normal.

While watching the investigative report, the saying “It is morally wrong to allow a sucker to keep his money” came to my mind.   When a factory owner details the nebulous agreements then the manufacturing price of a handbag, the world of luxury accessory is a sucker’s desire.  One item made with a third party inflated added cost of 84 euros in Italy, retails for 2800 euros in soft lite carpeted outlets around the world.

Now when I see a person with a designer handbag proudly walking down the street with an air of style superiority. I will have to hold back my snigger.  

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chat cinema. Cinema entertainment news podcast

Choice or Opportunity talk on Chat Cinema

Director Wes Andre Goodrich talks about his short film MEAL TICKET on this episode of Chat Cinema Podcast. The work centers on a story of a choice and an opportunity. The up and coming Brooklyn based filmmaker’s delves into the conscience of a person taking a step upward, but at what price?