Categories
Fashion

My Highlights from London

The United Kingdom is going through a lot. A government just holding its head above water, under siege on all fronts. Like the rest of the world, Covid has taken a toll on the country. Citizens refusing to understand the gravity of the virus. The Brexit drama continues its tortuous walk to an end of a year climax. 

On the fashion side, London Fashion Week, the smallest of the Big Four events mixed online and live shows. I have always had the opinion the British capital city charts a different course from Milan, Paris, and New York. The ability to make “quirky” work. To take a classic style, then completely transform the look with an edgy print, material, or cut. This is London’s secret as a fashion tolerant city.

My Highlights 

Burberry by Tischi, not a great collection shown in a forest setting. But I liked the solid colors of blues and oranges. The mix of denim on an all weather coat not so much. Save that for the influencers who take 30 selfies a day.

As an American, when I saw Erdem’s collection I though of romantic fantasy from an 18thcentury novel. The story reads, woman meets man on a walk, they fall in love but have others while longing for each other. The long lengths, whites and soft floral prints would be worn by the heroine of the tale. 

I am not familiar LaQuan Smith but better late than never. Street fabulous meets Glam best describes a brand that goes for sex appeal without the guilt.

Halpern decided to feature real front line workers in his presentation. Normally, I am not in favor of “real people” as models. However, his creations were about empowerment merged with optimism. Frilling Pom Pom Dresses and suits made of spirited colors and prints.

Emilia Wickstead’s white sail boat prints, cropped tops and cottons made for delightful collection. I wished I had been there to touch each piece. The complication was the fact each delicate look came across as simple.

Categories
Fashion

Halpern Empowerment

This collection from Fashion Designer Halpern at the London Fashion Week shows the power of imagination merged with function for style.  Using different materials and shapes each look had the theme of female empowerment.   

Women who mattered during these times.  This season the house used front line workers as models.  Fabulous! 

Stay tuned for more coverage from London Fashion Week. 

Categories
Cinema

Cinema Culture War, Again

20th Century Culture War 

My first job, working a multiplex movie theater with 8 cinemas. I got to see movies for free. Invite friends and have popcorn. The Culture Wars of the Reagan Years were happening. Of course it  reached my city and the theater I worked that summer.  Martin Scorsese made “The Last Temptation of Christ”. What a controversy!  “Hollywood, those “movie liberals” needed to get struck down by God” were comments.  Main Southern Newspapers called for boycotts of Universal Pictures and parent company MCA. 

Suddenly, the theater I worked in was under siege. Letters, petitions, came in the mail everyday. People even marched in building demanding to see the manager about the possibility of the feature running in the city. That “Blasphemous Movie” should not be shown here. Their morale outrage was clear, at times scary.

In spite of the fact the Italian Catholic Scorsese’s film had not been seen by film goers. Many had made up their minds before the first frame unspooled in a darken cinema. Thankfully, The national chain GCC cinemas decided not to book the film in its houses.

I travelled 3 hours away by car to Cineplex Odeon to watch the film. My reaction, DULL! All the drama over a movie that almost put me to sleep. I had more exciting Sunday School classes than sitting through Willem DaFore’s underwhelming take on the Savior.

21 Century Culture War

 A new century, people are have access to cinema at their fingertips. Click, on comes a selection of 10.000 movies. More exposure to cinema does not mean more understanding for different stories or views on the world. “Cuties” a film made by Senegalese-French filmmaker

Welcome to 2020, a tight election, a broken economy, and to top off, a raging pandemic.  Ted Cruz  stated his “disgust” for the work, but the Texas Senator had not viewed the film. Why a US conservative elected official is “concerned” about African immigrant children in a Poor Paris Suburb is beyond my reasoning, while, 25% of America’s children go hungry everyday. But, perhaps, “Cuties” offers a Moral Outrage to strike-up the voter base to get to the polls. 

The “Cancel Netflix” hashtag trended for three days. Reach a wide audience, corrupting children, HA! What is the demand for a French Language film in the United States? 

Social media was visceral to a movie few watched or tried to understand. After posting on two digital platforms about a podcast we produced on the film, we got called names and accused of encouraging child sexuality. Certainly many accusers were trolls, but some real. How do I discuss a film with person who refuses to see it?

Was part of backlash because this is a work by a dark skinned African woman? An easy target, prejudices go deep. Racial resentment is running high during these tense times.

Doucoure’s themes are about searching, belonging, children’s susceptibility to the media. She presents new perspective on feminism.

The 21stcentury feels a lot like the 20thcentury, in a bad way.  The Culture War never ended. 

Cuties is available on Netflix. 

Categories
Technology

Electric in the City-Preview

I tested the Vanmoof electric bike for a day.  Riding around the city on the high-tech cycle, I want one. 

The Vanmoof Electric Bike 

Stay tuned for the feature 

Categories
Cinema podcast

Why the Fuss?

Senegalese-French filmmaker Maimouna Doucoure unwittingly stepped in the middle of the American Culture Wars.  Her small film has gotten a lot of attention.  “Cuties” is the story of a girl from a poor Paris neighbourhood trying to find her way in life.  

Ignore the Outrage! 

According to some, it promotes Child Sexuality. On social media many  are calling for canceling Netflix.  The streaming giant acquired the production earlier this year.   Senator Ted Cruz wants the company investigated calling the film “disgusting”.  Why the Fuss? Has the film become the latest victim of  “Outrage”? 

I chatted with Chat Cinema Contributor Kristin about the controversy.  Kristin thinks people should see the film before condemning it.  “After the Berlinale screening we discussed “Cuties“, she says.  The overall opinions,  “We liked it”.  “Admittedly, it is not a great film, but enjoyable”. 


Cuties” is available on Netflix. 

Kristinloves going to the movies.

Categories
Fashion

Does Fashion Need This?

Is there a need for fashion week? Being fashion enthusiasts we have to ponder this question. I recently spoke to a TV editor. He said, “No way will I attend a fashion show”. As the world continues reeling from Covid 19 the need for a new wardrobe, questionable. September is fashion month. Normally this time of you, packing, invites, calling colleagues about where to meet. Not this time. I got a few live invites, but did not expect many.  

The First of the Big Four Fashion Weeks starts today.

As the numbers of infections increase in France, Italy, and UK, sitting in front row feels a bit oblivious. Bags, shoes, and complete looks to wear in front for a Zoom. The style effect gets lost from the neck down.

So many fashion related business face challenges. Models are no longer booked. Their agencies face closing.  Magazines struggle to fill ad pages. Retailers attached to life support. Customers fearful of loosing jobs, have less discretionary income.

 The future is not clear for all. One certaninty: the fashion industry’s day of reckoinig has arrived.

Stay Tuned for more on this subject.  And of course, Black and Paper will cover the fashion weeks. 

Categories
Cinema

Venice Film Festival-Length

Lengths 

One intriguing entry into the Venice competition program this year is Lahi, Hayop (Genus, Pan) by Lavrente Indico Diaz (better known as Lav Diaz). Those already familiar with the work of the Filipino director will know he is synonymous with slow contemplative cinema. His earlier films Evolution of a Filipino Family (2004) is ten hours long, one of the longest cinematic narrative films of all time. While some of his more recent prize-winning films, A Lullaby to the Sorrowful Mystery (2016), feature high on the longest ever films list. The director, a former film critic, drew from influences of work by the proponents of art cinema as Michangelo Antonioni and Robert Bresson. 

Lav Diaz is also no stranger to the Venice Film Festival. His 2016 filmThe Woman Who Left won the Golden Lion. Lahi, Hayop, for the director comparatively modest in length at just over two and a half hours, still contains his trademark allegories of human greed and brutality, shot in monochrome with long takes. Dismayed by the working conditions at a gold mine, three workers journey to their home village on foot through the isolated wilderness of the mythical island Hugaw.

The weariness creates a hallucinatory effect for the three main protagonists; two mature men and a younger more capricious colleague. From here, with money, envy, and narcissism as the central themes, their relationship and events become more unpredictable and dramatic. As the recent back story unfolds, with scenes  of contemporary Filipino society set against notions of the long-term effects of Japanese and American occupation. 

Still Developing 

Drawing allusions to the formal elements of Bertholt Brecht in its steady rhythm.   Lahi, Hayop consistently uses the static camera, and almost always films at the same distance. With virtually no reference to the present, the film could be set at any time in the last 50 years.  Given weight by the fact, when speaking of the film, the director’s inspiration came from a question asking him to define the human species. His urgent reply: “Despite being the better developed species, most of us still retain the demeanor and comportment of the chimpanzee or the genus Pan”.  Transposed to capitalist society, the film depicts the destructive effects of the human animal, not least through greed. However, the director also finds optimism because the human brain contintues to develop.  Diaz believes we will eventually become a self-actualized species, following the examples of Buddha or Gandhi. 

Lahi, Hayop has been playing in the final three days of the Venice program. It was in contention for the Main Competition (Orizzonti) prize. 

~ Steven Yates contributes to Black and Paper

Categories
Cinema

Venice Film Fest 2020

The Shorts 

Along with the more high-profile feature films, we should not overlook the short film entries in Venice.  I commend those that have been selected.  The short film competition in Venice has programmed a total of twelve entries this year.  The selection represents all regions of the world except South America. 

Si 

Two further films selected are screening out of competition. One, an intriguing piece titled Si by Italian director Luca Ferri. Running at just under 20 minutes, it has a split screen effect; the left side for the visuals, the right for text. In his notes, the director talks of Si as the first of five planned films representing absence. Here, a man studies a series of encyclopedic images from the Prelinger Archives, illustrating the creation of the cosmos.

Si 

Humanity is conspicuously absent, represented only in its works and ruins. The man falls asleep and sinks into a nightmare of arctic hunters killing polar bears, while the compellingly melancholic soundtrack features two pieces of contemporary music by the composer Agazzi with the text linked to the director’s personal childhood memory of a suicide. Hope and redemption are also tellingly absent in this unique and pessimistic appraisal of the contemporary human condition.

The Shift 

The sole entry from the United Kingdom, a Scottish film called The Shift, directed by Laura Carreira. It is a candid snapshot of contemporary social dependency in an ever increasing insecure world of employment. A young woman called Anna takes her dog for a walk in the woods, then goes to the local supermarket. Waiting at the checkout, she gets a phone call telling her she has lost her shift as a temporary worker.

The Shift 

The director stated that he felt the need to represent this common but largely unaddressed social situation. The film conveys this poignant vulnerability as representation of an increasing amount of people. Shift,  represents the temporary shift work and also the poignant shift in personal situation and security, as a powerless young woman sees her life change spontaneously and inexorably.     

~ Steven Yates loves cinema. He is a frequent contributor to Black and Paper

Categories
Cinema Fashion

SAMP-A Film Review

Imagine Frank Zappa (who was no stranger to acting, or the absurd) in his prime starring in a debut film like Peter Jackson’s Braindead(1992) combined with Robert Rodriguez’s El Mariachi(1992).  Chuck in  elements from the anarchy of El Topo(1970) by Alejandro Jodorowsky and Alex Cox’s Repo Man(1984), but with an original take on everything.  This pretty much sums up what is taking place here in SAMP, a high octane, no-rules feature by Flavia Mastrella and Antonio Rezza. However, although it is the case with the other aforementioned directors, this is not their debut film. In fact they have been making films for nearly thirty years. This is their sixth feature film, alongside various television programs and countless short and medium-length films. 

The Plot 

The basic and immediate plot of a man called Samp, who, in the midst of wild dancing somewhere in old Puglia, leaves the ceremonial proceedings to inexplicably and insanely kill his mother, before ranting about her superficiality and how she somehow had failed him. After this, he visits some powerful crime boss who commissions him to start doing the same to ordinary people. The objective is the suppression of tradition and human feelings.

Without any moral justification, Samp starts taking down men, women and even children indiscriminately. Along the way, he gets paid by a pedestrian guarantor, meets poetic figures, seemingly normal people and a musician with whom he seems to form a genuine friendship. More than this, he even falls for various problematic women  further causing him loose sense of reality.

INSANITY! 

The director’s explaination of SAMP, a film with the pace of a journey, the dynamics of a performance, mixing traditional archaic Puglia with a modern world inflicted by violence due to economic power. SAMPis therefore a metaphor of cultural disintegration without perspective, something they claim we have always experienced. Worth noting:  SAMP took nineteen years to make and the characters age together with the authors.

The stark color images of the film enliven the action. There seems to be more bullets fired here than even John Woo’s Hard Boiled(1992). The frantic pace barely slows down, only when Samp briefly pauses to monologue, justify his actions or falls in love again.   The insanity of what takes place, projected in such an anarchic way.  I could compare to Luis Bunuel at his most extreme.   SAMP is a road movie on foot that shatters the script, captures the locations, and takes no prisoners. 

SAMP is screening at Venice Film Festival in the Venice Days section. The  film is out of competition in the Special Events side bar. 

Steven Yates is a cinephile.  He regularly contributes to Black and Paper. 


Categories
Fashion

Streetwear Collaboration

Luxury fashion and streetwear brands continue to unite.   What do I think of the Prada-Adidas Collaboration launched today?  Are these worth the price? Stay Tuned for my opinion.