When I saw Alexander McQueen on the Milan Fashion Week Men, of course I made the trek to minimum studio space. I must admit I do not wear the brand. But the brand’s expressive statement wear has influenced on the fashion world.
Now, this collection was about suit for Fall 20. An interpretation of suits, work jumpsuits, and jackets.
I have visited Milan many times for Fashion Week. Seeing the proud city come to a panicked standstill made me sad.
This city will comeback. I will be there for the next fashion week.
When I arrived in Milan at the Malpensa Airport terminal I did not expect a scene from the “X-Files”. Global headlines have caught up to me. From head to toe wearing Hazmats, health officials were testing for the Coronavirus with digital thermometers. Welcome to Fashion Week. The week got even more interesting. My journey on the subway and trams. I suspected something was off when I got a seat on the subway. Sadly, the last two days of the fashion, the feeling became grim. Trade-fare visitors were sparse. Many exhibitors seemed more rejected lonely hearts club guests.
On the 23rdall Milan Fashion Week events were cancelled due to an outbreak north of Milan.
On Via Manzoni, Antonio Croce presented a collection based on the Southern California Sunset. What inspiration! I loved the strong sensuality. Sun drenched coats and suits and print coats filled the space.
When a fashion show opens up with the Italian Version of Lou Reed’s 1973 classic song “Walk on the Wild Side”. I should count on 70′ interpretations. I am a fan of Bea Arthur’s sitcom “Maude”. Her Finley character wore floor length vests. Cividini had a look in his collection inspired by this decade staple piece.
I do not associate Kiton with strong women’s looks. It is a brand known for suits and classic wears. The brand’s new bag has a BIG K on the opening clasp. A comment I heard, “Those who buy Kiton may not like such blatant monogramming items designed for social media. The sales will see. But there was one look I really liked for a Red Carpet styling, a two piece white pleated dress with sleeveless top.
A come back kid in the making could be Untied Colors of Benetton. The once household RTW brand has been knocked about over many years. With Jean Charles Castelbajac at the creative helm it looks there are some better more social media smart moves happening.
For sheer impressive theater, Fratelli Rossetti really went out the way to give an extra mile. At the Visconti Palace with models dressed in white on stage and trampolines with an added Piano Concert. PS, I want a pair of the embroided Brea shoes.
Stay Tuned for more coverage on Milan Fashion Week.
Milan Fashion Week to say the least was different. Global headlines have affected the bi-annual event. But it did not stop the creativity.
Stay Tuned for our coverage.
What did Steve think of the affordable Monolith Headphones?
First, the Monolith M300 Planar Headphone set is sumptuously packaged in a deluxe black box that slides out to reveal a leather case with Velcro closure containing a heavy duty plastic headphone with long nylon cable, and metal adaptor. There are also different size plastic ear hooks included which offer adaptability to the user. However, they’re not so flexible. The pieces have a sense of breaking easily which could lead to the trouble of finding more durable replacements. Also included are no less than four sets of ear plugs for added comfort. Overall, the aesthetic is not exactly state of the art. Instead going more for endurance against wear and tear (despite the ear hooks) as opposed to a trend-setting look. The latter could have been easily achieved, perhaps Monolith is looking for an alternative appeal in the market.
The sound performance, ultimately the most important aspect, is where the M300 Planar is at its most competitive. Whether it is on the Laptop, Smart Phone or Amplifier. There is a definitively balanced, detailed and spacious stereo soundscape clarity which elevates it to the level of a practical choice at mid-price level and should ensure customer satisfaction. Compared to other headphones in its price range there is a conspicuously louder and more balanced sound, layered in its frequency while very harmonious on the ear. Overall, if its sound first and foremost the user is looking for, then the M300 Planar does well against its competitors.
Where the headsets falter is the heavy black nylon cable with bolt-like adaptor. This is reminiscent of an old electric guitar lead. It might not be everyone’s choice, particularly to youth buyers.
By Steven Yates is a Black and Paper contributor.
Black and Paper prepares for Milan Fashion February 2020. While we countdown, enjoy a collection of GREAT FACES from previous MFW’s.
The Fashion Week Tour has started, yet the fashion business becomes more precarious. This year the challenges are too big to bury our heads in the sand. While we sit on rows during shows, mingle with each other over a sparkling wine, the warning bells are ringing louder.
Macy’s, the American retail institution announced the closing of 125 stores, including a Bloomingdales. As a major mall anchor store this is bad news for brick and mortar traffic.
John Lewis, the British High Street staple faces a turbulent future. Sharon White, group head, warned store closures are on the table. The vulnerable department store is having trouble attracting in store clients.
The other Knightsbridge Department store, Harvey Nicols struggles with not so fabulous numbers.
Dallas based luxury chain Nieman Marcus carries over $5 billion in debt. I saw their buyers at a fashion week event. I wondered what were they buying. When a retail chain holds a liability of that size, the space for maneuvering is limited.
The Big Elephant in the Room, a new virus, Coronavirus. A little known city, at least from my point of view, of 11 million inhabitants, Wuhan, has become the epicenter of a possible pandemic. The second largest economy on the planet, closed until further notice. The ripple effects, or tidal wave, are being felt.
Every major fashion house and corporation have large investments in the Middle Kingdom. The short term outlook looks bleak. Chinese consumers count for 30% of luxury goods. Most stores have closed. Burberry reported an 80% sales drop. Is this an harbinger of things to come? We can expect profits shocks in the near future. Secondly, many luxury city destinations will take a hit. With all flights to China cut, retail outlets in Paris, London, and New York will see falling numbers from fewer tourists. More concerning, the light at the end of the tunnel is still out of sight.
Supply chains have come to a stand still. The interruption will possibly be felt by consumers in September. Adidas, Uniqlo, H&M, Gap, etc are heavily dependent on closed Chinese factories.
Fast Fashion junkies could see an increase in price. Production and logistics will have to be re-thought. The “Made in China” imprint has taken a hit. Brands must come-up new solutions to avoid future interruptions. These may involve moving factories to new locations, perhaps back to USA or Europe.
Yes, there will be some interesting conversations during these fashion weeks.
A Black and Paper interview with Singer Musican Ricky Rebel.
I like Ricky’s in your face spirit. He is not afraid to express or show how he feels while doing it with a smile and a show off my body attitude. After the attention his Red Carpet look got at the Grammys, we had to learn more. After a quick What’s App conversation, he enthusiastically agreed to answer a few questions.
How did you and your stylist Elena Nazaroff come up with the concept?
I told Elena that I wanted something sexy and provocative like the glam era of David Bowie and Prince but that I wanted it to have a message. Andre Soriano, the designer and Elena Nazaroff ,my art director both sketched out their ideas for me. The look wasn’t finalized until I got into the room with Andre and actually started creating it. Andre wanted to capture the spirit of my music so we played my albums on full rotation as we made it. I think that’s why it came out so bold and rebellious. It was a beautiful, collaborative effort incorporating all of our innovative ideas into one.
The Grammys Red Carpet is go big or go home, did you have this in mind?
Absolutely! I am a go big or go home performer. When I get on stage I give 100%. I view the GRAMMYs like a performance. The show started the second I stepped out on the carpet.
Was there an inspiration?
I was inspired by Prince’s performance at the MTV Awards. Back in the 80’s it was ok for men to show off, peacock, and be sexual. Right now, I feel like mainstream artists in the male category are not expressing themselves sexually enough because they’re afraid of being perceived as gay or losing their Christian/religious fan base. I am not afraid of losing fans because all of my fans know that I cannot be controlled. They love me for it. Rebel is going to do what’s best for Rebel. I am not owned by the radical left or the radical right. I dictate: how I dress, what I say, and how I think. Like my new song says, “I’m Not Your Preacher.”
Have you been surprised by the success of your look? The level of coverage?
Yes! Very Surprised! Last year, I wore the Trump suit to the GRAMMYs. That looks got a lot of press. It was 50/50 negative and positive coverage. People either loved it or hated it. This time around I felt like people were talking about the fashion aspect of my look and less about the politics which is exactly what I wanted. I am getting very bored with politics lately. This year the coverage of my look was local and internationally appealing. Intelligent people can see the humor in my look. I wanted to poke fun at the impeachment hearing which I felt had further divided this country.
Ultimately, I want the left and the right to kiss and make up and work together to get stuff done. I also wanted people to “impeach” my booty. “Impeach” means to call into question the integrity or validity of (a practice). I consider my body a work of art and my ass is 100% organic.
Why are so many musicians embracing fashion?
I think fashion is the best way to express how you feel without speaking. Believe it or not, there is a shy side to my personality. I use fashion to attract people to me. My boots, for instance, are a great way to start a conversation with a complete stranger. I use fashion to connect with people. I believe that’s the goal of every artist.
What are your music plans?
We are developing a Ricky Rebel Vegas Show! It’s going to incorporate my music and I am going to tell the story of an “American Rebel.” That will be the name of my next album. I will more than likely be releasing it this summer. The record is being mixed and mastered and co-produced as we speak by Gary Miller, who has worked with David Bowie, Cher, and Kylie Minogue. Gary is determined to get me on the GRAMMYs stage one day performing and/or winning a GRAMMY. It’s amazing what you can do when people believe in you 100%. In the meantime, I am loving my journey and enjoying every second. My life is an adventure.
Certainly, his adventure will continue. We thank Ricky for the interview.
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A person can never have too many shoes in the closet. At Pitti Uomo, these are a few I would like to see on my rack.
Using an impressive location in Paris, the Spanish Embassy, Juana Martin made her debut at Haute Couture Week 2020. Her collection, “Les Cours De Ma Maison”, reflected an Andalusian background influenced by Flamenco dancing and dress. The Cordoba native gave the audience generous looks of embroidery, shawls, and headpieces. I would call the collection “Personal”. A reflection of a person who loves her “Tierra”.
Spanish Actress Rossy De Palma showed up at the end for a touch of authentic flamenco. I have been a fan of hers since “Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown”. But you will have to wait for that video.
Stay Tuned for more coverage.