Some images from our Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Coverage. Never a dull moment in the French Capital, the mode this season, prudence, not flash.
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Part one of our coverage from January’s 2020 Milan Fashion Week Men. Alexander McQueen and other London Fashion brands were on hand for the week. Overall, I would say the week came across as calm, no major shifts this season on the menswear front. I would not say a lose of direction, but a pause to find a direction. That is a good thing.
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I enjoy going to Pitti Uomo in Florence in January. It’s working blended in with pleasure. The historical city is romantic, charming, and pleasing to the eye. The best characteristic about Pitti Uomo is the atmosphere. Mens outfits of the day take center stage. Dandy’s dressed up showing off their best looks, always up for a conversation about what they are wearing.
This year the bi-annual menswear gathering felt a bit subdued. Low-key to the point of average. What Happened? I am not so sure. Many brands pulled back this year. Instead of celebrations, somber reflection took place.
I had conversations about Barneys New York. The luxury department store had been floundering for a while, but there was optimism it would pull through. Not this time, the bankruptcy hit home. An earthquake felt around the mens fashion world. If this one, who is next? Barneys championed new brands. A place to test trends. The menswear buyer was well known at Pitti Uomo, always talking to designers and labels about their collections. No more! The New York iconic flagship store has “Going Out of Business” and “Everything Must Go” signs on the doors and windows. More thought provoking, nothing has emerged to take Barneys place. Making it harder for new designers to break into mainstream consumer conscienceless.
There were gems of course at Pitti Uomo. I visited Japanese shoe designer Kanpekina. His footwear makes me tingle. A second Japanese designer I met, Kunihiko Morinaga from Anrealage, produces many unique menswear pieces. Especially stunning are his statement patchwork looks in the form of jackets and polo shirts. The finish and rich details demonstrate luxury tailoring.
Florence is a city of Grand Settings. I have had the privilege of visiting a few during Pitti Uomo. The most impressive presentation was by Brioni for its 75thanniversary. The luxury brand wanted set the scene for luxury, a Florentine Palazzo. Six rooms with a chamber concert musicians wearing the latest looks. Take That Downton Abbey!
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Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture is over. This season, a strange feeling hovered over the French Capital. Numerous strikes have paralysedFrance. President Macron’s reform policies have not gone down well the citizens. I am not familiar with Gaul politics and economy but Paris was a city filled with tension. How many strikes occur in Paris on a weekly basis? I knew this would be a different fashion week when my flight was delayed. When I arrived at Charles De Gaulle airport, the first announcement I heard, “Due to industrial action,,,”. “Welcome!”
Secondly, Paris was really cold and gray. One day the temperature hit -4. Not pleasant weather for running around from show to show or standing outside for an extra 30 or 40 minutes. This fashion week events never start on time.
All shows had extra security on hand. The entire city has been on alert for threats.
My problem with fashion has been the democratization has been haphazard at best. I am beginning to wonder if it is worth attending a fashion week. Standing in lines, Fighting crowds, the expenses, the ROI seems to diminish. Has Instagram and social media has been a blessing or a curse? A lot of invites, a lot of attendees, but why? The agencies cannot keep up with the requests. The crowd control situation is the same as a South American Bus Station. However, strangely, many shows were not at full capacity.
At one show, I saw how exasperated the staff became. All of the sudden there are so many stylists, photographers, and influencers. HUH? I asked a few to show me their work. An Instagram Selfie is now an editorial. Then, there are those who borrow or buy clothes (later returned) for a fashion show appearance. The people who really work during fashion week cannot dress as if their are attending the Red Carpet Met Gala. I can spot them a front row seat away.
Thankfully, I do not have the need to be seen at every fashion show. If I sit five rows back, I ususally say, “send me the pictures”.
The big news from Paris Haute Couture Week, sadly, the last show for Jean Paul Gaultier. Sexual, imaginative, and ahead of the gender curve designer bowed out after 50 years on the scene. Gaultier stopped making Ready to Wear designs years ago, now, no more Couture looks. The star studded show was packed with his friends walking the runway. His classic breton stripes interpretations and ethnic chic influences, his frivolity will be missed.
I am still going over the looks from Haute Couture Week, please stay tuned. A lot of reviews coming soon.
We had spontaneous discussion on the lack of award nominations for women. It turned into a podcast. Sofia gives her opinions. Why the exclusion? What has changed since #Metoo? The film business has long to way go.
It is always fun to attend Pitti Uomo. The Dandys or Peacocks walking around showing off their looks are impressive but at times some looks felt overdone. We think what makes a great look is if the looks seem effortless not like a math equation.
Stylist Gianni and I share share our views from Florence.
More from Pitti Uomo. Stay Tuned.
I saw the latest Star Wars film: Rise of Skywalker. I know the film has been out for a while. Contributing to the discusion seems pointless. The Rotten Tomatoes reviews are right.
Once again I ask the fallback question: How does it compare to The Empire Strikes Back? At 2 hours 23 minutes, the answer; please end this film soon.
There are so many problems with this film. The original Star Wars played it simple, a story of good versus evil. 2019, the world has become more complicated. That is one problem with the latest sequel. Filmmakers have not figured out a tone for the films. It has become weighed down trying to please everyone, not offend, stay modern, and hold true to the formula. A heavy order to fill.
JJ Abrams and team combed through an old Xerox copy machine recycling box at Lucasfilm for a story. The entire movie is a reference to other films lacking original ideas with a repeated premise that comes off as lazy and vague.
The evil Sith Emperor returns to reconquer the galaxy. Off the band goes jumping from planet to planet chasing clues on where to find, then stop Palpatine. Guess how it ends? No spoiler needed.
Some character interaction scenes were painful. Just saying the lines, woodenly interacting each other. I could almost hear the word “action” to the actors. I had little empathy for these characters. There were groans in the large cinema, not a single laugh.
Chewie, the reliable comic relief character in Episode 4, seemed more of an overly contrived plot device for nostalgia sake.
CGI is what you would expect from a Star Wars film. However, even this did not propel the story in an awe inspiring way.
How will the next Star Wars team move forward? I have no clue. No advice to give. But the future instalments cannot continue to rely on the good will of the fanbase.
2.5 out of 5 stars. I could push it to 3 stars.
StarWars: Rise of Skywalker is playing in local cinemas.
Roll in the new decade and New Year.
Today’s Drink!
If you had a good year drink one glass of Champagne. If you had a bad year, drink a bottle of Champagne.
The last Chat Cinema of the year. A bit of a conversation about the state of Cinema. Many auteurs are having a hard time adapting to the new trend of Hollywood. Director Martin Scorsese comments raised many eyebrows.
This inspiration for this podcast comes from a recent New York Times article.
The news from 2019 in fashion.