Cinzia Rocco is not one of those flashy brands but instead keeps it classy but chic. During Milan Fashion A few season I discovered the brand at Milan Fashion Week. These looks are available in stores now.
Dealing with bureaucrats with artistic pretensions is a balancing act. On the one hand they crave the hell with life mentality of Fassbinder, the go your own path of a Bowie, the respectability of Nolan mingled with the steady monthly salary of a state tax officer. Nowhere do I see this more than at the Berlinale Film Festival.
After the release of the 2017 petition calling for an overhaul of the film festival I saw many of the artistic and bureaucratic emotions collide. Artist and bureaucrats have thin skin. I experienced as well as witnessed the staffs defensive sensitive side during the press screenings, the shorten opening press conference, then at the festival.
Having attended the festival for many years, I support the annual event and films. The Berlinale mixes mainstream cinema to the quirky to the “I Don’t Get it!”
My criticism of the organization has not been any harder or meaner than the any other site or press outlet. As an attendee, I stated the reality. Real change has to come on all levels if it is to stay relevant on the circuit. As the film world knows, the Berlinale has been beset by criticisms from all sides. Festival Head Kosslick resigns this year. After last year’s fest and more recently during a “Chat Cinema” podcast we restated our opinions. A complete redo needed if the Berlinale can gain footing on the level as Cannes, Venice, and Sundance festivals.
I applied for festival access as press, no response. After a quick call, the reply on the other end, “We will check on it.” Then a declined notice via email. Never a problem in the past, all of a sudden a problem. Should I call a CSI team to solve the case? A small website critical of the fest, suddenly there is no space for attendance, press credentials denied for Black and Paper. I was told the press team is being diligent this year. What was their working method in the past?
After speaking to the press team concerning the declined noticed, they mentioned my YouTube features, it felt like they used it as a homework assignment. The numbers were low and the long videos. The reasoning made no sense: the number of seats limited. A drop in attendance the previous year meant there should be more places in 2019, simple math.
I asked, if the staff is so Internet Savvy why did not they not see the 24 pictorial, written, and video features produced and published about the 2018 Berlinale festival posted on Black and Paper.com. Additionally, there could have been more features had we written about the films not liked. Instead I decided to focus on the films liked.
After sending 10 weblinks from the 2018 coverage, I called the press officer back asking if they wanted more proof. I am so important the response was,” we are discussing it, it will take a few hours to discuss the application.” To be the topic of discussion at a film festival by staff should inflate the ego. Instead it feels sad on this side of petty. Did the Chat Cinema Podcast cause this relationship breakdown? I was smugly told we did not have time to listen to the long cast. I had time to endure screening 40 or so films at the film festival, only a few worth processing at a negative lab.
Can you work for another magazine, was a question from the officer. I responded with a “NO!” This site has been ok for me. I’m listed in the Berlinale data base, receiving emails from the festival.
My advice, put together a good festival that engages, not sermonises. Or develop thick skin.
Waiting a “few hours” from 1 pm until 7:48. I posted on Twitter a Chat Cinema tweet. Finally, 54 minutes later an email sent from the Berlinale press office stated my accreditation declined, again. REALLY! The press team spent 7 hours discussing Black and Paper, an honor in a way, the center of attention of a festival with over 400 films, thousands of attendees and we were singled out. A rejection letter that took an afternoon to write. There is an saying in the American South, “If people are talking about you, you must be relevant.” “But if they tell you not to come, you must be really relevant!”
Black and Paper will not attend the Berlinale 2019 because we stated our opinion. By and large not suffering from FOMO Syndrome.
TV channel France 24 gives a quick run down of the Couture collections from Paris.
Do women still want to wear wedding dresses? Is this too traditional for the 21stcentury? After the past few young royal events, everyone wants to feel like a princess.
The centerpiece of Ziad Nakad’s couture collection is the wedding dress fit for a 18th century noble bride.
I am not going to ignore the rest of the Lebanese designers lush looks made up of embroidery, pastel colors, and stones. This is a man who loves women at their most glamourous.
All images from info@maxtree.com
Haute Couture is for a few but inspiration for all. This is the week when fashion houses unleash pageantry at its most 17thcentury finest. Sheer splendor in the air meticulous designs, some taking hundreds of man and woman hours to produce. Shapes and colors in all structures combined for display on the catwalk, then on display for a few buyers, celebrities, and press.
Valentino’s head Piccioli is now the head of the optimistic club judging by this colorful collection. So Vivid!Not just colors, but shapes, lace, frills, ruffles, and extravagance of it all. Super model Naomi Campbell closed the show in a black sheer top.
What Armani does it is for Armani woman. Prive designs are about getting noticed but not in a noticeable way. The looks seemed inspired from a 30’s films. Suits, jackets, and dress fitted for the body from head to toe. The Woman in Red, look #34, has Joan Crawford written all over it, a jacket with a calf link dress stops the room.
Olivier Rousteing brought Balmain back the Couture zone. He took his moment, white, and soft pastel colors, but the shapes. The models donned looks small orbs on the wrist, and giant ones on the shoulders. Look #24, short, with the big fan and bow is a knockout.
A fashion show as a circus setting, Maria Chiura commands couture by making her looks themed around a most elegant clown. All the world loves a circus. I liked the 68 pieces presented. Look #4, sheer black stripped with collar, red sheet mini skirt is precious.
Jean Paul Gaultier presented 63 looks. The verdict, still on the edge but not fighting for the rest of us to catch up. The classic breton stripes, fringes, pointy shoulders from a Flash Gordon film could inflict harm but on a runway model proved visually dramatic. The soft baby blue, #56, halter top, mini ruffles with train peaked my interest.
Chanel’s homage to lush and wealth of past stood front and center. Lagerfeld focused on rigid forms and strong shoulders for the 62 look show at the Grand Palais. The embroided strapless of look #54 is a keeper.
Galliano at Maison Margiela destroys, interprets only to reconstruct. The two piece black look. #32, leather pants and cropped sleeveless bolero jacket is for the nightlife.
Guo Pei turns couture collections into Asian fairytales. Skirts, thigh high boots, silks, and floral patterns for the Femme Fatal of the Orient. The silver silk , #5, or organza dress with head piece is precious.
Alin Le Kal’s decade of experience with textiles along with his education at RMIT University, Melbourne proved invaluable. He developed a skill using fabrics. His feminine looks, using intricate crystals and feathers for his Spring Couture collection titled “Reflected Elements” showcased his love for the female form. The runway show set in the ball room of the Le Grand Hotel, Paris, proved fitting, a perfect place for grand entrances. The Peach feathered dress is Breathtaking.
Stay tuned for complete coverage of the Tom Verlaine Couture show from Paris.
I am not familiar with Ali Le Kal. Stay tuned for more coverage.
Final walk from a decadent show at Paris Fashion Week Couture. Fashion House On Aura Tout Vu celebrated 20 years on the couture scene. The show was part theatre mixed with his fashion.
Brice Hardelin, Black and Paper’s creative colleague in Paris, covered our first Couture Show. We could not be more thrilled. Getting an invitation to such a prestigious event at the Le Grand Hotel Opera feels like a dream come true.
A BIG THANK YOU to Mephistophelesproductions in Pairs.