The Black and Paper interview with fragrance designer Philip Birkholz.


The Black and Paper interview with fragrance designer Philip Birkholz.
Sometimes too much can be too much in the quest for fashion validation.
Fashion runs after trends instead of setting them. Instead of aspirational, it’s buy it now, be seen. Brands are all about the see me with the oversized branding for the Instagram Generation. Tacky be damned! Having written about this theme for a while, I wonder what will be the long term effects on fashion houses.
Balenciaga is a case study. Cristobal Balenciaga, saying the name conjures up sophistication, glamour, luxury, the absolute master of the fashion world. The Spanish born designer produced some of most striking creations ever made for a runway. Why? Because he sewed, cut, and designed. His looks were great works of art. WONDEROUS! Nothing was simple, everything was incredible. If a fashion lover needs inspiration, grab a book with his creations.
In the 21stcentury it is all about the branding for a picture on Instagram. Fashion houses are now owned by multinational companies looking at the bottom line. The Balenciaga brand is etched on baseball hats, chunky sneakers, kids clothing, and wear hoodies From the original bubble skirt to sweat pants, how did it come to this? “Cheapen” is not the term, “accessible overload” is what I like to say.
After reviewing the menswear Spring 18 collection, I felt like Theresa May after an EU summit. I needed a shot of something to numb the pain. The inspiration was about the everyday guy. The windbreaker jacket with BALENCIAGA labeled over the chest reminded me of the front of a coming city bus.
Every influencer has the “B” word well placed in their threads. The brand is having great success with the social media crowd. But I am sad with the feeling something has been lost. Balenciaga’s appeal came from a gorgeous level of inaccessibility.
The 69thBerlinale is shaping up. French Academy Award winning actress Juliette Binoche heads the festival jury starting February 7th2019.
Danish director Lone Scherfigs “The Kindness of Strangers” opens the winter cinema event. According to the press film’s release, the ensemble work stars Zoe Kazan and Bill Nighy as a group living in New York. Lone, a Berlinale regular, is known for character driven films. “An Education”, with Carey Mulligan opened to positive reviews with award nominations.
This is the swan song for Berlinale head Dieter Kosslick. After 18 years of greeting cinema goers on the red carpet, he is hanging up his hat. New head Carlo Chatrian takes over the creative reigns in 2020.
Staying to it’s reputation, the Berlinale showcases independent films and filmmakers with outsider perspectives.
The Competition list of films announced:
The Ground Beneath My Feet by Marie Kreutzer
By The Grace of God byFrancis Ozon
I Was Home, But by Angela Schanelec
A Tale of Three Sisters by Ermin Alper
Ghost Town Anthology by Denis Cote
The Golden Glove by Faith Atkin
Stay Tuned for our Chat Cinema Podcast on the 2019 Berlinale.
The first part of 2019 is busy as busy can get for us. There are so many events: First, Pitti Uomo in Florence, The great menswear show for mens style. Then, Milan Fashion Week Men, Paris Fashion Week Men in January are on the agenda.
February kicks off with show business glamour. The 69th Berlinale starts the first week of the month. Ten days of cinema from the unusual to Hollywood fare screened until the 17th.
Fashion starts up again in the middle of the month with women weeks from Milan and Paris, so many runways, so little time.
Lastly, March is travel. The world’s biggest travel event comes around, the ITB. All the global destinations spread over 27 halls. A sandy beach to a high mountain top to a five star resort, we report on the latest trends. Stay Tuned.
France 24 reports on the world of Couture from Paris.
There is a visceral disapproval to Donald Trump on the world stage. The US President gets people in emotional state. Whenever I meet friends the is a comment about his policy or what he says. The man in the White House is a piece of work, an entitled vestige of the upper one percent class who knows he is one of the most important presence in the room. Europeans look over the Atlantic with feelings of fear and moral superiority. Oh,,,,denial is lifestyle until reality hits the face.
When I first came to Europe there was a sense of optimism. The false sense of European Identity was everywhere. Nationalism at look last was dead. The EU economies were moving forward in the time of prosperity and open borders and soon a single currency. Pax Europa had arrived with Brussels as the capital.
2018, Europe is in crisis with the political class clinging to power by all its finger nails. The political class reacts more out of desperation than inspiration. Greece has been beaten into economic 3rdworld submission by Euro Champions. Immigration is testing even the most liberal societies. Right Wing movements have slowed, but not stopped.
The United Kingdom will leave the EU in one form or another in 2019 if the politicians can stop jockeying out of self interests. May has proven to be a constant humiliated character held with low regard by all. Brexit could have been avoided had pragmatism with imagination been used with a bit of humility. But instead Barnier, Tusk, Juncker, and the Euro Politicians decided on punishment, to show the other countries in the club, “don’t get any ideas”. Reference popular uprisings in Eastern Europe, Eurocrats could soon learn what the Soviets discovered in 1989. The system did not fall because the Communist were tired of ruling.
Today, at the time of writing France is gripped by riots that could manifest into full scale civil war. The genie is out of the bottle. Pent up rage has once again exploded on the French streets. When I am in Paris, I marvel at the city, splendor, the charm, the stores, the romantic ideas. But underneath, I often wonder, how do people afford to live here? 8 euros for a cafe in the center, my morning Monster energy drink was 3 euros. I made that one can last for 3 days.
A former banker with the 5.200 euro monthly make up and hair bill was not what he promised. The French believe themselves to be the intellectual class of Europe, a society of sophistication and all things worldly. How could their society get conned by a novice, a media charlatan like the unpolished Americans? A good slogan works, “Together France.”
Electing a former member of the financial circle as head of state then expecting sympathy is a bit naive or desperate. This is familiar to USA in 2016.
Macron’s first legislative act, tax cuts for the wealthy, a few, followed by fuel tax hike, for everyone. Then the standard neoliberal economic phrase, “reform the economy”. This usually means the working class gets less, the corporate class gets more. Like his UK and Brussels elite counterparts, the ambitious leader wants to lead an “Enlighten Europe” with a view from the clouds, out of touch from the mere people who put him in office. Is there any wonder there are violent country wide protests? The Yellow Vest movement has spread to Belgium and The Netherlands.
As I say, it is easier to look out the window than in the mirror. Europe has its high moral plateau made of wet cardboard.
A #Perfume that is #genderless, unique, & exquisite, Birkholz #Berlin. I got carried away sampling the #fragrances with the Sommelier. Stay Tuned for the story. #beauty #style #womensfashion #Mensfashion #parfume #perfumelovers #parfumista #cosmetics #scentoftheday pic.twitter.com/yRuYQEAtO4
— BlackandPaper (@BlackandPaper1) December 6, 2018
Black and Paper presents Chat Cinema. A podcast involving everything cinema featuring diverse opinions on awards, stars, filmmakers, film history, festivals, and books.
Sponsored by Beyerdynamic
The inspiration behind this project was the need to get more voices heard in regards to the cinema world. I know so many diverse cinephiles, I decided to tap into their skills, knowledge, and experiences to produce a show. Also, whenever we get together the topic of conversation always leads to cinema, why not record it?
Episode 1-Awards Season, contributors Sofia Stavrianidou and Steve Yates give their views on this years competition. What are their predictions? Who deserves to win? Does the Academy dislike a certain actress? Plus, a digression on a film master from the past.
Sofia Stavriandou studied Classics, at the National Kapodistrian University in Athens, Greece and took classes on Film and Communication in Athens and Cologne, Germany, She’s been a film professional for 20 years, specializingin press, publicity and media. Her experience include: working as the Communications Manager at the Thessaloniki International Film Festival and the Thessaloniki Documentary Festival (Greece), additionally, as Press Office Manager at Odeon Film Distribution (the largest distribution company in the Balkans and Greece), as well as a Film Sales and Acquisitions Executive at M-Appeal World Sales (Berlin). Today, her main role is the Head of Communications at Hellas Filmbox Berlin, the Greek-German Film festival in Berlin. As well, she cooperates with re:publica as publicity manager. Sofia has been based in Berlin since 2012.
Steven Yates studied Film and English at Kent University before taking an M.A. at Westminster University in London. Working as a freelance film writer since 1998, he has been published in books for Wallflower Press and in magazines and websites including El Hype, Celluloid, afterimage, Film International and theartsdesk.com. Based in Berlin, Steve is a member of FIPRESCI (The International Federation of Film Critics) and has sat on their jury at numerous international film festivals since 2002. He is also one of the main English language supervisors for the FIPRESCI website (www.fipresci.org).
Stay tuned for more podcast on cinema topics.
Eating is VULGAR! DRINK CHAMPAGNE!
This holiday season, like all holiday seasons is about getting together with family and friends to celebrate. The Yuletide cheer is in the air.
However, I am recommending less is better, and more is superior.
Eating is out! Drink the Best! After all, how many times have you heard a person say, I gained a lot of weight over Christmas from drinking too much Champagne? That feeling of guilt when you weigh in the first week of the New Year, making the same January 1st promise, watching what to eat, less carbs. Save yourself from the torment. ENJOY!
Fashion violence has many victims. There is no better example than attending a fashion show of a well known brand. Witnessing the spectacle of a heard of victims all gussied up for display, showing off their logo loyalty.
Flash back to the 1980’s, as luxury houses started to become more “mastige”, accessible to masses through licenses, everything started having a designer logo. The first, Paris based designer Pierre Cardin signed over his namesake signature to everything from terrycloth shirts to baseball caps. Sadly, the brand lost its luster, becoming a joke, then irrelevant.
Fast forward 2010, while having a cafe in Sloan Square, London, I witnessed one victim after another walking by overtly wearing designer brand this, designer brand that, proud fashion violence victims. They had no scars or bruises, just very visible labels.
During the past fashion season I walked past the Fendi show in Milan. Fashion Violence victims were numerous. Throw a people you would have hit three. Do not misunderstand. I adore Fendi and Mr. Lagerfeld’s work. As the creative director, he has done a masterful job of keeping the brand modern and relevant in the social media age. The luxury label is now bling, bling with its “double F” logo on diverse merchandise. However, This is where the violence starts for me.
I saw so many fashion attendees wearing Fendi from top to bottom, the complete collection. I wondered, was this a fashion show or a Fendi version of a Scientology Cult Convention. My definition of Fashion Victimhood: When a person buys a brand to become an extreme living billboard. Wearing the entire branded look, then throwing in more to top it off! Is this overcompensation behavior occurring? Having to prove garish devotion to fashion by being an over the top caricature. Imagine an entire body branded with “FENDI” references. Rapper Lil Kim with the LV logo painted on her naked flesh comes to mind. Is this fashion or victimization? Fashion Violence victims and Fashion Clowns are the same. I laugh when I see one or the other.
Style icons who wore designer brands were never victims of Fashion Violence. Is there a picture of Audrey Hepburn with the Givenchy logo emblazoned on her look? Think about it.