From the Anamorphic Club Cafe at the Berlinale, a Chat Cinema report on festival news.
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Berlinale Report
Category: Book Review
What happens when a course change may fail before the actual implementation? The 75th edition of the Berlinale could soon become a case study answering this question. Less than two months before the German Capital hosts filmmakers, headlines rolling out have painted an unflattering portrait of the Potsdamer Platz headquarters. Head Tricia Tuttle makes her debut February as the first female head of the international film hub. Although, reading recent Berlinale news coverage, the American may want to take cover in a dark movie theater in order to forget all the troubles.
Budget cuts, lack of screens, controversial past winners have taken a toll on the Berlinale’s reputation in the global filmmaker community. Global filmmakers may skip Berlin, weary of being labeled antisemitic because of their stance on the Middle East conflict. Instead of celebrating cinema, captions reading “a balancing tightrope”, “unwanted fears”, “revising the budget every month” are overshadowing a cinematic event trying to regain competitive footing with Cannes and Venice Festivals.
As for the movies announced so far, the schedule comes as torpid, local, lacking big draws, a zero-sum excitement level. The Competition category announcement occurs on January 21st. Perhaps then, the Berlinale can regain some it’s lost luster.
The Berlinale starts February 13th.
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Talley’s Chiffon Trenches
I finally read Andre Leon Talley’s book The Chiffon Trenches, the fashion authority’s memoir published in 2020. The Brown University graduate shows his gift of flowery as well melodramatic language describing his pioneering life in the fabulous stratosphere. However, therein lies the problem with the book. The author weaving the tales got tangled in the plush silk web.
From humbled beginnings in North Carolina to the corridors of fashion power at Vogue and Conde Nast, Talley’s journey was remarkable. An assignment with editor matrix Diana Vreeland opened the doors of influence and access.
Stints at Interview, W Magazine and Ebony, Paris then New York placed the Washington D.C. born journalist in a spoke of the fashion universe.
Into the Bubble
The expression goes “The devil does not come dressed in a red cape and pointy horns. He or she comes as everything you wished for.” It would be Anna Wintour who placed the journalist as close to the fashion’s center- hub as he would get. The British born uber magazine head made Talley a true member of the style gentry class. With a prestigious name plate, suddenly the first African American fashion Editor at Large not only had new friends, old enemies sought truces.
Working at Conde Nast came across as a gilded bubble, flying here and there, front role seats, endless name dropping, believing the gold leaf fiction would prove the influential style consultant to the star’s eventual downfall. Everyone has an expiration date. Mr. Talley’s beliefs in personal relationships in a transactional world came across as misguided, naïve, silly. Given his skill and knowledge, how did Andre fail to understand this?
The lack of introspection, suddenly chasing identity in a shallow way bothered me while reading his book. At the time of his writing, the world was gripped by BLM. Perhaps this was chasing the headlines of the day. I cannot remember Talley championing other African American Writers, designers, stylists until it was safe. Being friends with Naomi Campbell, Diana Ross and Michelle Obama was hardly risking taking.
His Job?
The confusing part of the book, what exactly did Talley do at Vogue? The details of having to pay for his driver when expenses were cut, laid bare, while the particulars of his job seemed vague, a column or a VIP styling every full moon. What were his real responsibilities? After his unceremonious 2018 dismissal from the fashion Bible, the once well-heeled connected style purveyor got lost, forgotten, a relic who did not keep up with the times. Seeing the frequently wearing caftain wearer on the 2020 Tamron Hall Show, I saw a man who came across as a child who lost his mother at the shopping mall. The issues with Wintour still ran deep.
Andre Leon Talley passed away in 2022 alone, struggling with legal and financial issues. The 73-year-old left a bigger than life legacy that sadly faded at the end.
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On Cityscape Interaction
Richard J. Williams was born in Washington DC in 1967, but grew up in Manchester, UK. Mr. Williams has lived in London, Oxford, Madrid, and Edinburgh.
Since 2000 he has been the Head of History of Art, and Professor of Contemporary Visual Cultures at Edinburgh College of Art. His teaching and research explores the visualisation of the city, through case studies in the USA, Brazil, and the UK.
The book “Why Cities Look the Way They Do” is the story of dramatic but unforeseen urban sights: how financial capital spawns empty towering skyscrapers and hollowed-out ghettoes; how the zoning of once-illicit sexual practices in marginal areas of the city results in the reinvention of culturally vibrant gay villages; how abandoned factories have been repurposed as creative hubs in a precarious postindustrial economy. It’s also the story of how popular urban clichés and the fictional portrayal of cities powerfully shape the way we read and see the bricks, concrete and glass that surround us.
Listen to the exclusive interview by Steve Yates
The book “Why Cities Look The Way They Do” is available at Bookstores and Amazon.
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The Big Picture
The Chat Cinema crew discuss Ben Fritz’s book “The Big Picture”. As Hollywood moves away from Star driven movies to franchise based media vehicles the impact is felt on all levels of tinseltown. One studio in particular got it wrong. Once the darling of “A list talent”, Sony finds itself struggling in the new era. What went wrong?
This podcast is sponsored by #Beyerdynamic.
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Christmas List 2017
It was all about the quality of life this year. The term “overreach” is out. I was inspired by the experiences I have had, from a visit to rustic colonial gem, to the pleasure of a simple bath, or an item in a store that caught my attention. Feeling special, having something that is different from the crowd.
Christmas List Brands:
Ex Nihilo Citizen X Eau de Parfum
Bougeotte Midi Purse Watercolor Lizard
Moose Knuckles Canada Jacket
A vacation to Marrakech
Xtorm Powerbank
Molton Brown Thermal Bath Soak
Nothing Personal by Richard Avedon and James Baldwin
Lancel Men’s Zipped Tote
Canon Camera G9X
Christian Louboutin Lipstick
Cigno Veoloce Bicycle
Pringle Lion Blanket Scarf
Alexander McQueen Petal print scarf
Brioni Sik Bow Tie
Skullcady Ink’d Wireless Earbud
Elbphilarmonie Tickets
St Louis Jazz Festival
Marcolini Champagne Chocolate Truffles
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Fashion History Hollywood Style
A lush pictorial history of Hollywood costume designer as a Cinephile and fashion editor the coffee table book “Creating the Illusion” has become a guide and style reference point. Starting from the genesis of the film industry to the modern day, authors Jay Jorgensen and Donald L. Scoggins give in depth narratives of craftspeople responsible for creating cinema’s most iconic looks by helping performers build characters that would make them famous on silver screens around the world.
Informative as well as entertaining from Page 1, Chapter 1 “Creating the Illusion” weaves together fascinating features with pictures, illustrations, and narratives on the giants of the field; Head, Adrian, Plunkett, Kelly, Louis, and Banton. But also included are stories of artist Erte and fashion designer Chanel forays into film costume design. Without skipping the spotlight shines on other well-known equally talented figures including Irene, Rose, and Travilla to name a few.
A vast number of films are discussed from “Salome”, “Gone with the Wind” to “The Matrix” mixed with behind the scenes anecdotes involving studios, directors, and movie stars; Liz Taylor’s gold costume from “Cleopatra” or the battle of wills involving Marilyn Monroe against Fox, and Dietrich’s iconic jewel encrusted dress from “Angel” are just some of the fascinating stories involving designers caught in the political maneuverings of movie making.
If you have a collection of cinema books or fancy yourself as a film buff I recommend “Creating the Illusion”. I had so much fun while inspired reading about relationships between costume designers have with movie stars and their involvement in the creative process of film production.
Creating The Illusion is available at your local bookstore or on order from Amazon.
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A Dream Turns Into A Nightmare
Has the Euro become a one way love affair? An affair capable of strangling democracy for the cause of a flawed path wrapped in hubris. Journalist and Authors Larry Elliott and Dan Atkinson examine in their book, Europe Isn’t Working, the inception, birth, and growth of a fairy tale currency planned to bring unity, jobs, and prosperity to the continent but instead has morphed into a economic straight jacket of uncertainty. How did so many smart people get it so wrong?
The Black and Paper Interview.
Can you explain the European left remained silent while Greece was forced into economic and political submission?
I would suggest that the awful truth proved by the Greek debacle – that there was nothing remotely progressive about the single currency – was simply too much to bear.
With the UK leaving the EU, has the Eurozone been placed in a corner regarding Greece? There is no option but for Greece to stay in the Zone.
I do not think there was ever much prospect of Greece leaving the euro, although a debt default was certainly on the cards for a while. We hear that the Greek government is unhappy with Brexit but it ought to ask why it is that it will not and never has countenanced leaving the euro.
How did the Euro evolve into a Neo-Liberal Trojan Horse?
It bore the imprint of the times in which it was created, the high water-mark of the free-market era. Furthermore, the currency was dreamed up by central bankers in cahoots with commercial bankers and industrialists, so its character is not all that surprising.
You wrote that the Technocrats are more interested in the financial class than the middle class. France just forced through new labour reform laws, is this legislation an example?
Yes, probably. From the outset, the euro-zone members have been told they need to “reform” their “sclerotic” welfare states. That was a big sell” for the euro for banking and big busness.
There are some bad guys and one lady in particular in your book, Merkel. She is credited with being a stabilizing force in Europe but according to you she has been the opposite. Can you expand on this?
Anyone who tries to strengthen the euro-zone is a force for instability simply because the euro is itself a force for instability. Mrs Merkel is no better or worse in this regard than other leaders, she is simply more powerful, thus generates more instability.
The Italian Job, presently, there are rumblings concerning Italian Banks and their level of exposure. Is this the next Euro Zone Crisis? How do you expect Monti to handle this?
We have been told on and off for five years that Italian banks would be the next domino to fall. It may happen, but if not there then another chunk of masonry in the euro-zone – to mix metaphors – will surely fall off.
After Brexit, the EU institutions have dug in and decided to maintain course, was this a surprise?
No. The EU proceeds by failure. The common market didn’t work so we “needed” a single market. That didn’t work, so we “needed” a single currency. That doesn’t work so the euro-zone “needs” a single fiscal policy. When that fails, the euro-zone will “need” a single government.
European Union officials appear as guilty as their American counterparts as far as the corporate revolving door; Barroso was hired by Sachs, what happened to the outcry?
I don’t really have a view on this. Larry? EU leaders are just as keen as jumping on the gravy train as US leaders. I would say the anti-establishment, anti-elite sentiment on both sides of the Atlantic has been fueled by the idea that the people at the top have done all right for themselves while ordinary people have not.
With many countries in stagnation in the Eurozone: France, Italy, Spain, Greece, Portugal, and Finland, why is there still a romance with the Euro?
I refer you to some of the enclosing words of our book:
At the end of Europe’s tormented 20th Century, scarred by the Great War, the Depression, the Second World War, the Holocaust and the Cold War, a visible, tangible symbol of the continent’s renaissance was at hand. Who with even a scrap of idealism could resist its charms?
We go on to say that it is always a bad idea to invest what are bits of economic machinery with emotional force. One should simply ask whether the mechanism works or not. The euro does not.
I will post my book review shortly. To obtain a copy of Europe Isn’t Working go to your local bookstore or order from Amazon.com
What do you do when you are a legendary performer who has influenced everyone from Madonna to Annie Lennox to Lady Gaga? Write a book of course!
Born in a religious family of Jamaica, Grace Beverly Jones did not set out to make her mark as a singer, model, actress, and fashion icon but instead studied to become a teacher when the acting bug struck while doing Community Theater in college.
A biography spanning her early years as a struggling actress going so far as to live in the nude for a year, then moving to Paris becoming a roomy with a future supermodel and an Oscar winning actress. Jones became the toast of the Studio 54 era with her over the top performances in the legendary club entertaining then dancing alongside Liza Minelli, Bianca Jagger, and Andy Warhol. She became the living definition of the word “fierce” in the underground scene of New York.
Iconic, trendsetter, disco diva, and trailblazer, Jones was first modern female performer to bend the rules of gender, he/she looks with fashion as well as with those distinctive box fade or close shaved haircuts. Before Madonna, she wore the famed body hugging bustier.
I would not call this a reflective biography as more of a recollection of events of a determined artist who did things the way she wanted to do them in a world that was not quite sure how to define her. That was a good thing.
I’ll Never Write My Memoirs is available on Amazon or at local bookshop.
Gods and Kings The Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano
British fashion icons Alexander McQueen and John Galliano led remarkably parallel lives, from their humble origins in working-class London, to their education at St. Martins College, to their brilliant and controversial careers abruptly cut short by suicide and hate-speech, respectively. Galliano and McQueen represented the last great age of haute couture, and their tragic downfall resonates in the dissolution of fashion as high art into vulgar commodity. Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano by Dana Thomas (2015) presents a detailed portrait of both designers, as well as a scathing commentary on the commercialism of the fashion industry at the turn of the 21st Century.
The lives and careers of both men are presented in exhaustive detail. Both McQueen and Galliano are depicted as enfants terrible of the great fashion houses, although the portrait of McQueen is a bit more sympathetic, perhaps in hindsight of his awful death. Their relationships suffered, even as their reputations flourished; ultimately, their personal demons and addictions, which at first sparked their creative fire, burned them to ashes.
Thomas’ meticulous research is evident as the reader is overwhelmed with names and events; it’s hard to keep it all sorted, and the few pictures presented without textual references aren’t much assistance. Nevertheless, it’s a fascinating tale of ambition, genius, hubris, and tragedy, even if the reader doesn’t know much about fashion.
Book Review by L.T. Del Genis
Gods and Kings The Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano is available at Amazon or your local bookstore.
Editor’s Post Script.
A Post Script to the John Galliano Story, a new ending as the designer is now the creative head of fashion house Maison Margiela where he continues to provoke controversy on the runway with well received looks.