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Before the lockdown many fashion magazines were under pressure. Are they relevant during an ongoing pandemic? As consumers face stark choices, the existence of many publications looks uncertain. Editions cut. Titles closed. Selling bling is out of style.
Check out our video on the matter.
The big department stores reopened on Saturday. The early turn out, light. I observed curiosity, people looking around, but no shopping. It is still too early to make a verdict. Perhaps, shoppers will return in the future. But in the New Normal large shops feel like dinosaurs. A species from a bygone era.
Berlin partially lifted the lockdown. On Saturday I decided to go go to the KuDamm, the city’s main shopping area, to see the results of the reopening. The department store KaDeWe had it fist day of sale on the 25th. I ventured in, curious. Shopping in the “New Normal” written for an episode of “Black Mirror”. As with other stores I checked last week, people stayed away.
The city has eased the lockdown but shoppers are staying away from malls. Demand has dissolved. The “New Normal” for the short term means less consumption.
What makes it hard to buy? The constant reminders of the Coronavirus. A Mood killer!
Berlin partially lifted the lockdown form the Coronavirus Crisis. Stores up to 800 meters may open. But the limits are as follows: A limited number of people allowed for 20 meters. Sounds easy, but Soviet Union 1975, people standing in line waiting to get in a store.
I wanted to see it for myself. As one of the first major cities to reopen, the German capital could represent life with Covid-19. A living petri dish of the “New Normal”.
Shopping experience in a Post Lockdown world means distance.
I went to a denim shop in the city center for a pair of jeans. The sales person, a friend, was sitting outside as I came up. I entered the store with a mask in my hand, but he wearing his. There was tape on the floor to mark the 2 meter space in front of sales desk. Funny, the store felt a bit bare. I asked what happened. The previous collection was sent back to the head office. It did not sell. The carry over pieces are available until the Spring looks arrive.
I asked about business. A mixed reaction. He preferred people stay at home, not window shop. Better to call ahead for a pair of pants. It is safer. But the lack of buyers concerned him. If the lack of customers continued he feared the store would close in a matter of months. I got a pair of new jeans for the spring.
I walked around the shopping area, all the boutique shops looked empty. A street once filled with people, tumble weeds could have rolled across. A few stores marked down items at 70%. Few takers.
A bit strange walking into a sore filled with salespeople wearing masks and warning signs of a virus. Even asking a staff member 2 meters aways felt awkward. Next time I think Whats App.
The Mitte mega mall, Alex, had more employees than customers. To enter, shoppers have to go through line control. Once shopping was about connivence, now, drudgery. Opened for business but no shows. The public stayed away on the first opened day after 5 weeks in lockdown.
Stay Tuned for more.
The classic Aesop Fable of “The Ant and The Grasshopper” is about being prepared while the other played. Looking over the recent headlines, many have lived with the mentality of the Grasshopper. A complete lack of long term preparation for the winter. After only 30 days in lockdown many companies and brands have run out cash.
Publisher Conde Nast announced cut backs, salary cuts, and furloughs for employees. The company will request aid from governments of several countries. CEO Roger Lynch’s letter to employees states “financial pressures” with an “altered trajectory”. Advertisement buys have tried up. Titles Vogue, Vanity Fair, Details struggle in free fall as riders desert print magazines. Before the Coronavirus publishing houses were in trouble, a failing business model in the Digital Age. Will any magazines recover from the shutdown? Certainly many will disappear, fewer editions. I buy Vogue, however, I get the feeling the world will not be so aspirational desiring to wear latest Balmain look.
Today Victoria Beckham announced her fashion house will furlough all employees while applying for government aid! The UK taxpayer picks up 80% of her furloughed employees salaries. A smart and legal business move, but a bit galling. A few days ago the former Posh Spice and husband purchased a $20 million apartment in Miami.
I was thought to save for bad times. Keep 6 months saved up for a raining day. A Good Business practice, set aside money for a downturn. “Living The Best Years of My Life” translates “Live Now” because the Good Times last for ever. Live lavishly, display it all on social media.
Vicky carrying one of her many Birkin Bags. In February Vogue Editors stayed in Presidential Suites while attending Fashion Weeks. Reconciling this past lifestyle, suddenly asking for money.
When this pandemic comes to an end. The world will be a different place. One where “REALITY” is real.
I checked on family members the other day. Like everyone living in a lockdown, I reached out for a long conversation. Thankfully, everyone is OK.
The talked shifted to malls and shopping. What happens for the re-openings? Macy’s, the mall staple, when I was young the department store was a first stop. According to my sister, not anymore. It’s no secret the chain has suffered over the years. But I had no clue how bad things had gotten. A backstory, management in the early part of the century went on a buying merging spree. Buying Federated Department Stores, then May Company creating a massive coast to coast power retail brand. The problem, shoppers shifted to online buying, brick and mortar stores felt old fashioned. Secondly, the company became highly leveraged. Unable to react quickly as customers left to other shopping experiences. The company made some concept store changes. Then announced more closures. Macy’s became a wondering company without a soul.
Back to the conversation with my sister, Shopping! I asked her about going to Macy’s. The “GOD NO” response said it all. Their shoe department is awful. Shoe are left out, stacked in boxes for you to get them yourself. Not even organized! There is no sales person. When in a service industry, cutting customer service seems the same as 2+2=3.
“They need new buyers because the clothes are bad. Who would want to wear anything? I stopped going to Macy’s a long time ago”. I got the perfect example of a lost retail customer because of the short sighted nature of those in charge.
I am writing this story based one of the retailers local store, not a flagship location. However this tale could be a gage for a wider picture. Macy’s has been in retreat mode for years posting erratic sales, falling numbers, and site closures.
If a store cannot entice my sister to buy a new pair of shoes. That says a lot!
The fashion world continues to respond to the world’s needs during this time of crisis.
Fashion Designer Ivan from fashion brand Ivanman decided to convert his Atelier to face mask production. Refashioned from industry materials, the pieces are colourful and expressive.
As the Coronavirus Lockdown exit strategies come in focus. Face masks maybe required accessories for leaving the home. This collection is designed and handmade in Berlin’s Kreuzberg district.
I bought two face masks, one orange, the other pink.
For more information on Ivanman check his website.
Our contributing West Coast Editor Editor, Elena produces masks from her home in Los Angeles. It is an inspiring sight. If you need to order contact her directly via Instagram or reach out to us.
We are all in this together.
France 24 interviews master of shoe designer Christian Louboutin. A new exhibition on his designs opened in Paris.