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Fashion

The Fashion Musical Chair

The Fashion Musical Chairs Contest continue.  In one week, three brands made big changes.  Thankfully, I have a chalkboard to help keep up with who is where, just erase then add a new name.

When John Galliano took over as Creative Head of Martin Margiela, the British designer had come in from the cold after being ousted from Dior.  Ten years later the partnership has ended.  After months of rumors, Mr. Galliano announced his resignation from the Paris House.  Admittedly sad news, the 64-year-old brought a creative romanticism to the label.  The runway shows were fantasy run from surreal to vintage sumptuous fantasy of diverse materials.  There was no announcement on where John Galliano will go.  Perhaps, his own label or retire, we have to wait and see.

Margiela

Chanel finally announced a new head six months after Virginie Viard’s exit.  The uber luxury brand named Matthieu Blazy as the new creative head.  Coming from Bottega Veneta, Bailey will be in charge of ten collections a year.  I see a lot of energy drinks in the Belgium born designer’s future.  Chanel is more than a brand but a cultural tentpole for fashion and style.  How will Blazy interrupt the classic Tweed Jacket?   Recently, the Chanel runway shows have lacked the grand pageantry typical under Lagerfeld, possibly, the dull period in the Grand Palais is over.

As one designer leaves, another enters, Bottega Veneta placed Louise Trotter as Matthieu Blazy’s replacement.  Coming from Carven, a brand known for oversized looks and exaggeration, Trotter’s view with Italian Tailoring should be interesting. 

Fashion is about change.

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Fashion

Fabulously Applying the Same Remedy.

In the “Here We Go Again” category, another month, another headline on layoffs at the big publishing houses.  It is hard to imagine who will be left to write about a perfume review. It is hard to see just how many more staff members can be fired from a company becomes dysfunctional. Applying the same not working remedy for the same long term illness has not worked.

First, Hearst, the Eight Avenue headquartered publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Cosmopolitan announced 200 employees would be fired.  President Debi Chirichella gave the usual excuse of allocating resources to support goals, etc. The reality is the company may employ A.I. to produce articles.  Hearst’s flagship title Harper’s Bazaar will publish one less print edition next year, from ten to nine.

The second announcement of fashion magazines meltdown came from Conde Nast.  The collection of prestigious magazines released underperforming financial figures.  On Thursday December 5th, GQ heads rolled along with other workers.  Last year Group leader Roger Lynch fired 5% of the staff, decamped to cheaper digs in London and New York City while trying to pivot to digital realms. Claiming ad buys are down, costs are up, the Vogue owner is seeking new bottom line cuts.

Plush Meltdown

As this plush content calamity happens, the great survivor Anna Wintour continues with the title Chief Content Officer over several titles. The simple question is, why? The strategy of jettisoned international editors has failed, one template for all local versions has failed.  Editors are now working across multiple titles and platforms.  What made Vogue magazines unique has become as exciting as eating at a global fast-food chain. Conde Nast became a sinking brand extension of Wintour.

Hearst and Conde Nast are going to have to search for new ideas as 2025 looks to be difficult year with conflicts, consumer pressures and business cutbacks. Will the once uncontested style gate keepers be relevant? Dinosaurs existed until one day they did not.

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Fashion Feature

Again in Prato

Another day another fashion accessory scandal hits the airwaves.  Once again Prato finds itself at the center of suspect labor practices.  This time Aljazeera uncovered more shoddy production in the Tuscany city.  Major fashion brands employing contractors, sub-contractors and sub-sub-contractors engage in cat and mouse games in order to circumvent Italian Labor laws.

As luxury increased prices on one end, they sought out cheaper production on the other.  Capitalism rewards those who exploit more efficiently Workers earning as little as 3 euros an hour work a twelve-hour day, sometimes six days a week manufacturing glamorous leather pieces that sell for as much as 3400 euros in high-end shops.   

There is nothing wrong having a labeled expensive handbag.  But the dilemma is the hidden or not hidden mechanics of the product coveted.  An expensive leather handbag is a sought of trophy. However, what if the prize comes from an unscrupulous source?  The most convenient human emotion to access is denial.

The brazenness of luxury brands and producers to almost flaunt their less than ethical ways is baffling. Supply chains are easily traceable in 2024.  Everyone has a camera and a social media account with potential to post a brand damaging image.

A big leather factory with illegal sweatshop labor wouldn’t go unnoticed. Yet, why are the companies relaxed about sourcing products? Because executives know consumers will forget a scandal. Certainly the outrage will be hot and loud at the beginning, then back to normal.

While watching the investigative report, the saying “It is morally wrong to allow a sucker to keep his money” came to my mind.   When a factory owner details the nebulous agreements then the manufacturing price of a handbag, the world of luxury accessory is a sucker’s desire.  One item made with a third party inflated added cost of 84 euros in Italy, retails for 2800 euros in soft lite carpeted outlets around the world.

Now when I see a person with a designer handbag proudly walking down the street with an air of style superiority. I will have to hold back my snigger.  

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Fashion

Unpredictable, but I’m still going to Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo 2025 starts January 14th in Florence Italy.  The bi-annual menswear fashion trade fair showcases brands, style and trends from around the world. The fashion world faces strong headwinds as economies slow down, consumers cut back and geo-politics rattle business.  During a Zoom Call with Director of Communication Lapo Cianchi, the head gave one word, “Unpredictable” is the general outlook in the fashion world. The frank honesty was welcomed.  The business model for fashion trade show is being called into question. Since Covid, the attendance numbers have not recovered.  Even so, Pitti Uomo is a special gathering for men’s fashion lovers. 

With over 800 exhibitors signed, this upcoming apparel forum is an important event on the calendar.  MM6 from French house Maison Margiela hits the runway with “do not follow the rules” looks.   The other designer on the calendar, Satoshi Kuwata, comes to Tuscany with his label Setchu.  According to the brand’s web page “a fusion of two cultures” is the basis of the gender-neutral aesthetic.

Pitti Uomo Center
Center Court at Pitti Uomo’s Fortezza da Basso

Fashion and lifestyle concepts continue to evolve and merge.  Concepts of Community and Active Style of Living have emerged as consumers push more into experiences over brand linkage.  Producers, buyers and creatives seek shared passions with communal relationships and passions for the same ideas and values. 

Knees Up, a new concept store centered around Marathon enthusiasts has a prominent role at Pitti Uomo. The popular retail space located in East London offers fashion, coffee, sportswear and a place to recover from physical training.  Several athletic brands will exhibit with the first-time headliner in Fortezza da Basso.

The same questions linger, but have become more obvious. As customers move away from well-known masstige labels, will retailers take a chance on small brands?  Perhaps in these rattled times, a small bet can pay back big returns.   

Of course, we expect the traditional Dandy pageantry in the center courtyard.  

Pitti Uomo starts January 14th until 17th in Florence Italy. 

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Fashion

In The Box 2024

Do you need some gift ideas for 2024? We will have the perfect suggestions for Christmas.

Christmas Gifts
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Fashion

That Style in a Bowie Video

Rock superstar David Bowie wore a yellow suit in his 1983 music video single Modern Love. Everyone puts on black or brown. Only a confident man could wear this color and pull it off with such a level of finesse. After watching the concert performing video many times, this hue has been on my Style Bucket List for a long time. It’s time to cross this off the slate. With my fingers crossed for Spring 2025, I’ll be rocking like a legend.

Yellow Suit
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Fashion

Another One Gone

Again, the Berlin department store scene suddenly got smaller. Another big retailer is closing the doors. Galeria Kaufhaus in Alexanderplatz will go dark at the end of 2025. According to local papers, property owner Commerz Real wants to develop the property as a mixed use location of apartments and small shops for the Mitte. What the heck is going on? After years of struggling with bad management, falling foot traffic, Galeria Kaufhaus’ new owners hoped for a fresh start reviving the fortunes of the 145 year old chain. Those plans took a setback on Friday afternoon. Rumours circulated the six floor flagship brick and mortar locale was being considered for other uses. After heated negotiations, the owners decided not to renew the lease of the prominent retail outlet.

Galeria Kaufhaus in Alexanderplatz

As a frequent shopper, I am a bit sad GK is closing. The Kaufhaus sat on a transport crossroad of bus, metro, train, tram and bike. Although it is not my idea emporium, I found it easy to pop in now and again to browse or buy a gift. The houseware section offers a nice selection. Secondly, the sweets and beauty selection always have goods on special offers. Berlin’s City East will feel a bit empty in 2026.

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Fashion

Copenhagen this Fall

This Nordic Capital is a great place to visit in the Fall. Copenhagen is an intimate city offering a great blend of charm and modernity.

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entertainment entertainment news Fashion

Halloween Watch

Do you need a few films to watch this Halloween? These are titles we recommend for night at home with popcorn.

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Fashion

Time For The Fall Jacket Style

Adding an edgy touch to a Fall Wardrobe is easy just by wearing the right jacket.

ISTO Jacket
Isto