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Part 1 of the Black and Paper Feature
The Glamorous spirit of Italy is being recaptured by Alitalia. The flagship carriers renaissance begins with the style and chic looks of new crew uniforms.
Why the new uniforms after so many years?
Renovating a company must include the renewal of its image. And what is more distinctive for an airline than its uniform? This is especially true for Alitalia, which globally represents Italy, something that throughout the world is synonymous with style and timeless elegance.
Our aim was to create a new look of our people which would capture the spirit of Alitalia today as it continues on its journey of renewal and growth. Our new stylish collection of uniforms emulates the beauty of Italy and represents Italian excellence around the world. We want our customers to experience the best of Italy in everything that we do, and there is no better way of highlighting our desire than with new uniforms.
Who is the designer of the new looks?
The new Alitalia Collection was created by Italian haute couturier designer Ettore Bilotta. All of his creation matches the best of Italian tailoring tradition and the luxury textiles highlighting the purely formal linearity characterizing its design. He studied at IED in Rome. He started his career in high-fashion with Radiosa, a bridal fashion house then moved to fashion house Lella Curiel. In the mid-1990s he collaborated with the iconic Italian label Lancetti. After this he worked he designed Etihad Airways in 2003.
Alitalia’s brief to the designer was to create a new style which would be timeless and enduring, by using classic Italian elements combined with everyday practicality for both male and female Alitalia team. Bilotta used red to symbolize Italian passion, and green to represent the best of Italy, its countryside, and the richness of its culture and history. The female cabin crew uniforms are a burgundy that slowly changes to a lighter red. This effect was achieved by using a chevron print design. For the female ground crew, a charcoal grey gradually changing to green was also realized using the same print design. This design process is utilized on each garment, including a white blouse featuring tapering chevron print columns in red for cabin crew and green for ground crew.
All female crew members receive three options: a one piece dress, a two piece jacket and skirt and a trouser option, including shirt and cardigan. As for the accessories, they receive high or low heel shoes, overcoat, foulard, winter scarf, belt, stockings, handbag, hat, gloves, make up kits and bag with buttons.
All male crew members receive a collection composed by jacket, shirt, tie, waistcoat (for male cabin crew and male airport lounges team) or pullover (for male ground team), pochette, trousers, belt, gloves, handbag, shoes, overcoat, winter scarf, bags with buttons and make up kits for male.
Why the La Dolce Vita references of Chic?
The collection takes inspiration from the glamorous Golden Days of Italian fashion in the 1950s and 1960s – when women always were very elegant, wearing beautiful hats and gloves – and Italy’s rich heritage, culture and national identity. To represent the essence of Italy in the new collection, the designer studied Italian architecture, monuments, and everyday lifestyles but elected to draw inspiration from the country’s landscapes, eventually focusing on the terraces of Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera. These terraces were the inspiration for the hat design.
The new uniform also celebrates the people of Alitalia, their professionalism, style and passion for the airline.
Even the accessories are unusual and distinctive. The bags of the female uniforms are elegant and refined. For cabin crew are in wood green, and for ground staff are in burgundy such as all the leather accessories. The shoes worn by the personnel are handmade in the historic workshops of the Marche. The gloves that accompany the new Alitalia uniforms come from the heart of Naples, famous throughout the world for its tradition of leather craftsmanship.
For accessory lovers, tell us about the new crew bags and other details.
The bags for the male uniform and other accessories are more formal, from the shoes to the waistcoats, cardigans, scarves and overcoat that showcase the typical Italian male elegance. The design on the pouchette and on the ties are perfectly balance the uniform using modern Italian contemporary and classic design elements to create items which are in vogue.
Both the foulards of the female uniform and the ties for male are made from the finest silk selected from the best supplier in Como.
Part 2 of this article will be on line soon.
By Breck Graham
International Press Day from Munich

International Press Day is a bi-annual event held in Munich offering a chance for media and stylists to look over the latest styles, accessories, and looks from international designers.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BMf-058Do3j/?taken-by=blackandpaper
Fashion Designer Pedro Pedro

Pedro Pedro
Pedro Pedro attended the Academia de Moda do Porto before creating his own brand in 1998. He is the winner of the I Mode European Fashion Awards 03 in Brussels. Pedro Pedro looks have been featured in Vogue, Elle, and Collezione Dona.
For his 2017 collection Pedro Pedro held a runway show during Milan Fashion Week. He gave the Black and Paper an interview after to describe the collection and his inspirations.
The opening pieces were breezing then moved to muted tones, why?
The theme was all about a David Lynch movie named “Dune”, and it’s located in a post apocalypse world dominated by a great desert, so that’s why it goes to sandy shades of beige and pastel colors.
Being from Portugal, how does this influence your outlook on clothing?
We are living in a Global Age where the information flow is the same for everybody, access to the same news and images at the same time. So maybe my approach to a particular theme is as particular as me being part of this country, Portuguese sensibility of style.
More Below
What was the design approach?
I think the theme asked for this kind of approach, usually I like to show a cooler, looser shape and this time I went further with adding asymmetrical details in a fluid and softer materials.
Soft feminine looks were central to the collections, do you feel woman are moving away from gender neutral looks?
I am big fan of mixing gender and I always have a masculine approach into my designs. Mostly there are some tailored coats, parkas and trousers that can be ambiguous.
There were no accessories this season, all was clean.
There were some styling effects with basic bags designed by me and a partnership with shoes manufactures, those were also designed by me.

for more information go to:http://www.cristianoburani.it/

Cristiano Burani is a Milan based designer of head of his eponymous label. Known for his use of vibrant colors in his collections, Burani studied fashion design at New York City’s Parson. He has worked for Versace Jeans Couture before moving to Blumarine. His first collection debuted in 2010 in Milan with the support of Vogue Italia and Camera Nazionale della Mode Italiana.
Cristiano gave an interview to Black and Paper after his Spring/Summer 2017 collection fashion show.
Your collection went from dazzling stripes to a sophisticated suit, (Look 34) why?My fashion show is about the expression of the same woman in different times of her life, from day wear to holiday to evening cocktail. I like the idea of being eclectic and switching from casual to “elegant”, always with cool attitude.
What inspired the collection’s theme?
The Collection is inspired by my love and sensibility for colors. There is a combination of sporty details together with feminine shapes layered with a lot of technology in the new pleated and over printed fabrics.
When a woman wears a look from this collection does she want to get noticed?
A woman wearing my collection doesn’t necessarily want to be noticed. She has consciously decided to wear unique and exclusive pieces entirely made in Italy, with a semi couture process. That is what makes all the looks so special.ter
What was the material used for looks 11 to 15?
The material used for the two plain outfits is viscose chenille. I like the idea of using leisure fabrics for a suit which are between smoking jacket looks and pajamas but with a sporty reference.
The oversize belts are a great detail, how did you develop those?
The oversized belts are another sport reference. They are entirely stitched by hands using grosgrain ribbons of various different widths.
Le Bon Marche Paris

Paris is the capitol of shopping so of course it would be home to the first department store, Le Bon Marche. Housed in a building from the 19th century that on the left bank near Blvd St. Germain, Le Bon Marche is the most boutique like Grand Magasin in the city showcasing established as well as new designers. For avid shoppers this place is inspiring with so much charm.
Margiela Collection Spring 2017

Martin Margiela Spring 2017

Martin Margiela, the fashion worlds deconstructionist Garbo because of his aversion to interviews and being photographed launched his house in 1988. The Royal Academy of Arts graduate rejected fashion as a luxury form but instead used vintage and old materials incorporated into new looks and designs. The historical aesthetic of this brand is about pick and mix with forms.
John Galliano has been the Creative Director of the label since 2015. I admit it, I was excited when it was announced Mr. Galliano would take the helm of the brand, a perfect match of the whimsical combined with different elements of inspirations. Both the house and its new head were not afraid to play with proportions or fabrics; there was the mutual history of exploration.
When it was confirmed I could see the Spring-2017 collection up close and personal it was a dream come true. I saw the details, touched the material, it gave me real appreciation of the collection. For me, the transparent blouse was great. There were pieces inspired by backpacks; skirts with broken pieces of CD’s and interpretations of the classic trench coat were other highlights.
Margiela has always been a label with a certain style, but still endures.
A BIG THANK YOU to the Margiela Team.
German Press Days for Spring 2017

German Press Days in Berlin for the presentation of the Spring 2017 collections.
Shoes and Sneakers
Menswear
Womenswear
Accessories
I used the new Huawei Nova Smartphone during the presentations. See my upcoming review on the device.