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Keeping Is Getting Harder

Today another creative head departed from a big house. Keeping up with who is where, for how long is getting harder. This time Sabato De Sarno “quit” Gucci after only two years. It is no secret the Italian Fashion House has struggled in the past years. Sales have fallen to the point of panic for parent company Kering as buyers turn to other labels.

Kim Jones walked away from Dior. The shocking news came right after presenting his latest collection in Paris for menswear week. The British born designer made a mark at the top of the heritage house with a modern interpretation of tailored pieces.

Kim Jones
Kim Jones

There was a time in the fashion business when longevity matter, not anymore. Taking the job as a head designer should come with a stylish 48 hour bag.

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Feature Technology

Giants Can Fall

Once upon a time Kodak was one the largest companies in the world.  Digital cameras hit the market.  General Motors controlled 60% of the US auto market.  The Corolla came along.  Nokia sat on almost 40% of global mobile phone sales.  iPhone was released. AOL had 30 million users in 2000, by far the largest in the world. Customers switched to broadband. MySpace was the social media site. Suddenly young people moved to Facebook. These giants fell, some faster than others.   They were unable to adapt to changing times.  As the shockwaves continue to pulsate throughout the global tech sector. Could this David slay the giants? That is the question.

Brazen

DeepSeek, the Chinese start-up founded in 2023 scaled the walls of success to become a conversation.  AI was supposed to be the terrain of the giants, not anymore.  A brazen newcomer crashed the scene.  Even President Trump weighed in saying “It’s a wake-up call.”   A new competitor arrived, one that cannot be bought or suppressed.

MySpace

Not only did DeepSeek beat the US giants, the young Hangzhou young upstart did it cheaper and faster than expected.  While Silicon Valley sat back raking in investment for the AI, High-Flyer, DeepSeek’s parent company, outflanked the Goliaths.  In one day, tech stocks dropped $1 trillion in value.  Maybe Wall Street knew had a premonition of what is coming.  In the past it took years for companies to fall from the top.  For the hyper connected age where change comes fast, within twenty months a once household brand could be regulated to the graveyard, then forgotten. Technology is an unforgiving field that moves forward, stomping over stumblers.

 For the first time, The United States tech platforms must change to a catch up plan in a field they dominate.  A nightmare could become a reality, a decline to irrelevancy.  So significant is the threat, Fortune Magazine reported Meta head Mark Zuckerberg has convened a war room to counter DeepSeek’s new Chatbot.

The well-known expression from the Chinese philosophy Taoism:  What goes up, must come down.  These words are resonating in Silicon Valley.

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Feature

2025 Begins

Wishing you a Happy 2025 and may the New Year bring success.

2025 New Year
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Feature

Have A Merry Christmas

Hopping you have a Merry Christmas and Seasons Greetings during the holidays.

Merry Christmas
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Fashion Feature

Christmas Guide 2024

2024 is the year where less is more, nothing over the top. This gift guide is about keeping it down to Earth with style. Do not spend a fortune to give something nice this Christmas.

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Fashion Feature

Again in Prato

Another day another fashion accessory scandal hits the airwaves.  Once again Prato finds itself at the center of suspect labor practices.  This time Aljazeera uncovered more shoddy production in the Tuscany city.  Major fashion brands employing contractors, sub-contractors and sub-sub-contractors engage in cat and mouse games in order to circumvent Italian Labor laws.

As luxury increased prices on one end, they sought out cheaper production on the other.  Capitalism rewards those who exploit more efficiently Workers earning as little as 3 euros an hour work a twelve-hour day, sometimes six days a week manufacturing glamorous leather pieces that sell for as much as 3400 euros in high-end shops.   

There is nothing wrong having a labeled expensive handbag.  But the dilemma is the hidden or not hidden mechanics of the product coveted.  An expensive leather handbag is a sought of trophy. However, what if the prize comes from an unscrupulous source?  The most convenient human emotion to access is denial.

The brazenness of luxury brands and producers to almost flaunt their less than ethical ways is baffling. Supply chains are easily traceable in 2024.  Everyone has a camera and a social media account with potential to post a brand damaging image.

A big leather factory with illegal sweatshop labor wouldn’t go unnoticed. Yet, why are the companies relaxed about sourcing products? Because executives know consumers will forget a scandal. Certainly the outrage will be hot and loud at the beginning, then back to normal.

While watching the investigative report, the saying “It is morally wrong to allow a sucker to keep his money” came to my mind.   When a factory owner details the nebulous agreements then the manufacturing price of a handbag, the world of luxury accessory is a sucker’s desire.  One item made with a third party inflated added cost of 84 euros in Italy, retails for 2800 euros in soft lite carpeted outlets around the world.

Now when I see a person with a designer handbag proudly walking down the street with an air of style superiority. I will have to hold back my snigger.  

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Feature

The 47th Influencer

The Donald Trump influence on Fashion and Masculinity will be felt in the fashion industry.  Professionals should not underestimate the influence of a President’s outlook on style.  John F. Kennedy’s inauguration, the President went hatless on a cold January day, that styling decision placed a once accessory staple to the back of the men’s closet for a generation.  Men dropped the headwear.   Of course, his First Lady who needs no introduction, Jackie, is a timeless fashion icon.    

This election could mark an unexpected shift in many ways. People turned away from mass media for opinions.  Mainstream channels took a credibility hit.   Not only did they get it wrong by a September Issue Size Vogue issue, television commentators could not hide the disbelief on live television.   The fashion press misread voter sentiments, publications placed a bet on the wrong horse, then lost. What does that say about their insight?  No amount of deflection or no comments can cover up the scale of this pubic misread.  After putting Kamala Harris on numerous covers, no one expects Head Editor in charge Anna Wintour to have a public make up phone call to Melania Trump. 

Elle
Elle

Creative directors will need a rethink over the next months and years.  Since the term “gender” became a political toxin, consumers may move away from gender free fashion, out of style.  Sure, the houses can produce it. Who will buy the collections outside of four stores in NYC and SF? The marketing and messaging will take a different course.  Companies are ditching DEI initiatives faster than a Shein can copy a runway look.  Bottom line decisions trump social movements in boardrooms.   The 47th Unites States leader’s 75 million voters are too big a market to ignore.   

There could be a silver lining, style hope.   Brands could become counter reactionary, more underground.  The Gap was born in the counter culture of San Francisco.  The Mini Skirt shock off the feminine rigidity of the fifties.

The 47th head of the United States will leave an imprint on the way we dress, like or not. 

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Feature

The T-DAYS

Drink Champagne on days with a “T”. Today and Tomorrow.

Champagne
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Fashion Feature

The Black Dandy

The theme for MET GALA is Black Dandy. Superfine: Tapping into Black Style will be front and center on the Mega Red Carpet May 5th 2025 in New York City.

These Black Dandies came from our Pitti Uomo collection.

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Fashion Feature

Two More Down,,,

Fashion Week month just ended, but the news from the style capitals keeps coming. First, the shock announcement of Hedi Silmane leaving French House Celine after seven years took the industry by surprise. The Paris born designer revitalised the womenswear label with youthful designs. Parent company LVMH released a statement reading Michael Rider will replace Hedi.

Milan’s Missoni issued a statement that Filippo Grazioli exited. Known for knightwear, Missoni returned to the runway schedule two years where Filippo debut a colorful, well received collection for the family owned label. Alberto Caliri has been named as the replacement.

It is hard to believe there was a time when designer had longevity sitting at the top of the pyramid. Those days have passed the same as shopping at a Sears Department Store in a local mall. There is better job security as an UBER driver than being a fashion creative head.