Features and opinions on a range of topics from politics to technology. Sometimes the features are serious, sometimes they are fun. Check them out.
I have visited Milan many times for Fashion Week. Seeing the proud city come to a panicked standstill made me sad.
This city will comeback. I will be there for the next fashion week.
A Black and Paper interview with Singer Musican Ricky Rebel.
I like Ricky’s in your face spirit. He is not afraid to express or show how he feels while doing it with a smile and a show off my body attitude. After the attention his Red Carpet look got at the Grammys, we had to learn more. After a quick What’s App conversation, he enthusiastically agreed to answer a few questions.
How did you and your stylist Elena Nazaroff come up with the concept?
I told Elena that I wanted something sexy and provocative like the glam era of David Bowie and Prince but that I wanted it to have a message. Andre Soriano, the designer and Elena Nazaroff ,my art director both sketched out their ideas for me. The look wasn’t finalized until I got into the room with Andre and actually started creating it. Andre wanted to capture the spirit of my music so we played my albums on full rotation as we made it. I think that’s why it came out so bold and rebellious. It was a beautiful, collaborative effort incorporating all of our innovative ideas into one.
The Grammys Red Carpet is go big or go home, did you have this in mind?
Absolutely! I am a go big or go home performer. When I get on stage I give 100%. I view the GRAMMYs like a performance. The show started the second I stepped out on the carpet.
Was there an inspiration?
I was inspired by Prince’s performance at the MTV Awards. Back in the 80’s it was ok for men to show off, peacock, and be sexual. Right now, I feel like mainstream artists in the male category are not expressing themselves sexually enough because they’re afraid of being perceived as gay or losing their Christian/religious fan base. I am not afraid of losing fans because all of my fans know that I cannot be controlled. They love me for it. Rebel is going to do what’s best for Rebel. I am not owned by the radical left or the radical right. I dictate: how I dress, what I say, and how I think. Like my new song says, “I’m Not Your Preacher.”
Have you been surprised by the success of your look? The level of coverage?
Yes! Very Surprised! Last year, I wore the Trump suit to the GRAMMYs. That looks got a lot of press. It was 50/50 negative and positive coverage. People either loved it or hated it. This time around I felt like people were talking about the fashion aspect of my look and less about the politics which is exactly what I wanted. I am getting very bored with politics lately. This year the coverage of my look was local and internationally appealing. Intelligent people can see the humor in my look. I wanted to poke fun at the impeachment hearing which I felt had further divided this country.
Ultimately, I want the left and the right to kiss and make up and work together to get stuff done. I also wanted people to “impeach” my booty. “Impeach” means to call into question the integrity or validity of (a practice). I consider my body a work of art and my ass is 100% organic.
Why are so many musicians embracing fashion?
I think fashion is the best way to express how you feel without speaking. Believe it or not, there is a shy side to my personality. I use fashion to attract people to me. My boots, for instance, are a great way to start a conversation with a complete stranger. I use fashion to connect with people. I believe that’s the goal of every artist.
What are your music plans?
We are developing a Ricky Rebel Vegas Show! It’s going to incorporate my music and I am going to tell the story of an “American Rebel.” That will be the name of my next album. I will more than likely be releasing it this summer. The record is being mixed and mastered and co-produced as we speak by Gary Miller, who has worked with David Bowie, Cher, and Kylie Minogue. Gary is determined to get me on the GRAMMYs stage one day performing and/or winning a GRAMMY. It’s amazing what you can do when people believe in you 100%. In the meantime, I am loving my journey and enjoying every second. My life is an adventure.
Certainly, his adventure will continue. We thank Ricky for the interview.
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I enjoy going to Pitti Uomo in Florence in January. It’s working blended in with pleasure. The historical city is romantic, charming, and pleasing to the eye. The best characteristic about Pitti Uomo is the atmosphere. Mens outfits of the day take center stage. Dandy’s dressed up showing off their best looks, always up for a conversation about what they are wearing.
This year the bi-annual menswear gathering felt a bit subdued. Low-key to the point of average. What Happened? I am not so sure. Many brands pulled back this year. Instead of celebrations, somber reflection took place.
I had conversations about Barneys New York. The luxury department store had been floundering for a while, but there was optimism it would pull through. Not this time, the bankruptcy hit home. An earthquake felt around the mens fashion world. If this one, who is next? Barneys championed new brands. A place to test trends. The menswear buyer was well known at Pitti Uomo, always talking to designers and labels about their collections. No more! The New York iconic flagship store has “Going Out of Business” and “Everything Must Go” signs on the doors and windows. More thought provoking, nothing has emerged to take Barneys place. Making it harder for new designers to break into mainstream consumer conscienceless.
There were gems of course at Pitti Uomo. I visited Japanese shoe designer Kanpekina. His footwear makes me tingle. A second Japanese designer I met, Kunihiko Morinaga from Anrealage, produces many unique menswear pieces. Especially stunning are his statement patchwork looks in the form of jackets and polo shirts. The finish and rich details demonstrate luxury tailoring.
Florence is a city of Grand Settings. I have had the privilege of visiting a few during Pitti Uomo. The most impressive presentation was by Brioni for its 75thanniversary. The luxury brand wanted set the scene for luxury, a Florentine Palazzo. Six rooms with a chamber concert musicians wearing the latest looks. Take That Downton Abbey!
Stay Tuned for more on Pitti Uomo.
I have written about this subject in the past. It is easy to protest, be a part of a movement that does not involve negative consequences. Climate change activism continues to stay on the front page. Greta made the cover of Time magazine as Person of the Year.
However, does Generation Z really feel about the planet and consumption? Primark’s revenue rose 4% with more planned store openings in 2020.
I recently ran across a New York Times article on the Instagram obsessedcrowd concerning shopping. The divergent values add up the same as 2+2=3. This is the reason many fashion brands are having a difficult time understanding what these consumers want. Hate fast fashion on social media, run to the store to get a new look, post. Buy better means buy less, yet on Instagram posting the same look twice is a faux pas that will earn negative comments. Such is the life of digital “W level” celebrity. A disposable wardrobe in the closet on Saturday, throw it in the garbage on Monday, shopping again on Friday.
Climate change is a movement, but instant gratification is an entrenched modern behaviour.
As Fashion Weeks approach I think there are now 3 categories of fashion types attending the shows and events. The Fashion World is driven by character absorption of media images. I classify them in 3 categories: The Carrie Bradshaws, The Anna Wintours, and The Kardashians.
First, The Carrie Bradshaws of the fashion world. They really want to live in New York City while sort of having a job as a part time writer in one of the most expensive cities in the world. Living the life of shopping for heels, then hitting a lunch spot for a chat with friends. Sadly, that world is about as much reality as a Marvel Super Hero Film. But if they can attend a fashion show, look perky, get a few pictures sitting row front, job done.
Second, The Anna Wintour types are a more serious crowd. They want to respect. Armed with sunglasses, and a lot of attitude. When this type walks in you are suppose to know who they are from the first point of contact. The Fashion Gods will strike from Heaven for this impertinence. Yes, some even try to absorb the superior character straits of a public personality. Is Anna really like this? According to their definition, “yes”.
Lastly, The Kardashian types are more about a show. They give you a spectacle. Presentation is important. Tight looks or a lot of color, heels to the ceiling, so much make up, Liberace would be proud. I am never sure what these people do for a day job. Of course they have a tag along companion.
These types are not exclusive to females. The male versions are a bit different. There are few masculine Carrie types. Men tend to lean more on the Wintour and Kardashians side. You know them when you meet them and more when you “see” them. No introduction needed.
Fashion Weeks Season starts in January until the end of February.
While on a Saturday visit for lunch at a local department I decided to make a Black Friday List. What are the basis for these recommendations? I was with a friend wondering around a local department store. We browsed, looking for gift ideas on different floors and departments. Some items we have, others what we would like to have.
An Illy has a conversational look for a kitchen. The Stelton Pitcher’s Swedish Design fits anywhere. The Filofax has a classic power feel. The Hourglass Packaging caught our attention because of the packaging. A Hermes Change Purse is affordable luxury to impress. Egoiste brings back memories. The Kitchen Aid Blender was recommended. Lastly, Roger Vivier adds a style factor to any look.
This list leans on the materialistic side, but we were in a store.
Part 2 of the Black and Paper exclusive interview with Tamy Ribeiro on the future of mobility.
I decided to shift the conversation from the challenges faced as a woman in the field, to ask her expert opinions on the future of mobility and our interaction with cars.
We met at the Shift Automotive Conference during IFA Berlin. How will Driverless Cars transform society? Will driving become more leisurely?
Personally owned cars sit idle 95% of the time. There are pain points for insurance, licensing, parking, etc. With self-driving mobility as a service, people will have transportation at their fingertips with zero friction points. This will transform many aspects of our lives in a positive way. Not to mention the fact that reduced time spent behind the wheel frees up a lot of time for entertainment, news, radio, reading a book or anything else a passenger might feel like doing when they don’t have to focus on the road. So in that way, driving will absolutely become more leisurely.
Cars will have to be designed differently.
Absolutely. When it comes to transportation as we know it today, there is huge potential to improve transportation with their current design. However, autonomous vehicles will bring new mobility services to the ecosystem, and in this case, new concepts will be developed.
The design of a car will no longer be about making life easy for the driver, but rather for the passenger. Which is what we’ll all become when we no longer have the need to have our hands on the steering wheel. That means extra focus can be given to comfort and entertainment, making being in the car a more leisure activity.
Driverless cars have been a part of Sci Fi Films. Reality seems trickier.
Autonomous driving is one of the hardest challenges mankind has ever faced. It is a moonshot that needs to be worked on every day. Waymo, for example, is a leader in the market and has over 16M kilometers of driving on public roads and 16B kilometers of simulation. Still, they prioritize launching in regions where they can drive safely. For those that are not aware of the complexity of driverless cars, cities like New York or Berlin would be the first choice when analysing market potential. However, Waymo is currently operating in Phoenix to learn, while adding more capability and geographical reach each month. It’ll be decades before self-driving cars are all over the roads.
Based in Hamburg, Germany, Amy Ribeiro is the Chief Mobility Evangelist and Head of Partnerships for Wunder Mobility.
Many terms have lost their meanings. Once these words evoked heated conversations. Debates on solving the worlds problems. Raising issues ignored by the population as it goes about its daily life.
Today, when the words ACTIVIST, DIVERSITY, and INCLUSIVITY are used, I shrug. For me, they get lost in the modern translation. Diluted! The have been hijacked.
Let me start by saying, Mandela, Walesa, and Parks were activists. They risked their lives standing up to hostile social systems built on human repression.
A 2019 Self Anointed Activists smugly sits on stage to tell everyone who will listen, “I am an Activist”. There is zero risk. If Instagram and Twitter followers give a person the title “Activists”. That means this person is an Activists. Whatever the cause, pick one out of a bag. InstaMarytr!
When a model or actor uses the “A Word” I chuckle. Madonna is a true Performer. Her impact on the presentation of music can never be denied. But at her last tour, a friend said, “I did not pay $299 to hear her preach self important political gibberish.”
“If a frog had wings it would not hope on its butt.” Those are words from my Grandparent when I complained the world was not a fair place. I believe in Diversity and Inclusiveness. But what does it mean? Life should be fair. Whine and complain on social media. Have these words become more about a sense of entitlement?
When I read about Diveristy/Inclusive movements old fashion values such as working hard, paying your dues, or scarifice seem far way. Many industries have affintiy cultures. Exclusive, the same as genteel country clubs for a select few who can pass through the gate. Agreed, the cozy fraternity atomsphere needed shaking up. Diversity and Inclusivity should be about opportunity not a free ticket. The ladder to the top shouldn’t be replaced by a fast moving elevator with cushioned seats. Knowelegde, skill-sets, experience, and a thick skin are still valued for longterm success. I write this as an African American who worked in fields not “Different Friendly!”
I recently had a conversation with a record company press relations head. We talked about his artists rosters. Many I did not know, but I am over the hill. As the conversation continued I said, “Today, everyone is famous. Either a celebrity, reality show, Instagrammer, YouTuber, 5000 channels, 10.000 programs, and whatever else. All you need is a iPhone. KaBOOM! Instafame!” We both laughed.
In 2018 if you swing a cat, you will hit a so called “famous” person. Famous for being Famous. Not a clue how or why.
Being famous in the past was an exclusive commodity. Reserved for those with talent or a gift from the heavens. Not anymore. Thanks to camera phones and Instagram, fame is the same as mosquitos during a hot summer. Pocket size digital devices replaced sound stages, recording studios, and cameras. As mass media continues to loose its grip on audiences, so too have the boundaries it once set collapses. Fame has become a true democracy, no talent required. There are “Kardashian Wannabes” lurking in every household.
A 20thcentury invention by mass media, fame evolved over the decades: First, the mass hysteria of Valentino, The swooning for Sinatra, blonde Goddess Monroe, the cultural force of The Beatles, and the seismic shift of Michael Jackson,. These artist shook the world with appeal and talent.
The 21stdefinition of fame means: Multi-talentless has appeal. Something of no value has a warped value. The generational gap continues, modern fame skill-sets are lost on many parents. Can anyone over 35 understand why the under 25 crowd follows daily selfies? However, my Grandparents, considered Madonna a Flozzy. HA!
While not begrudging those seeking fame. I bemoan the old rules of being famous. Until recently, it meant something.
At IFA 2019, I met Tamy Ribeiro at the Shift Automotive Conference. Tamy spoke on the subject of the changing automotive field. New technologies have risen challenging the classic models of transportation. As an expert on topics and trends shaping mobility today and in the future, her opinion is valued in an ever changing industry.
What peaked my curiosity was the fact a female executive talking about both technology and automotive subjects. Both industries are highly male driven with only a few women getting a corner office. After a chat, I asked if she could answer a few questions on the obstacles a woman faces in these worlds. Mrs. Ribeiro said, “Yes”.
Women are speaking out in other fields, has the tech area been slow to respond?
I think this is a very broad issue, and sexism is prevalent in almost every industry on the planet. It’s common knowledge the tech industry has been dominated by men essentially since its inception. It does bother me to know companies like Amazon rarely offer information on how female employees are treated at the workplace or how many are in leadership positions. I believe that transparency is the first step towards a fairer future.
Nevertheless, progress is being made. It’s my job to spread awareness for the tech company I work for. I’ve made a career for myself in a male-dominated industry. I’d love to see more women doing the same in the future, and it’s going to take a team effort for us to get there!
Why did you choose both tech and automotive as a career field?
My journey into mobility was not the traditional path. First, I started my career in travel and then after over a decade of work I had a mid-life crisis and I decided that it was the best time to start my life over again by moving to Germany to raise my kids. I joined Wunder in 2016 to do a one-month internship and conclude a course without expecting a long-term contract – I was actually enjoying going back to this student life. I planned to keep studying after concluding it.
However, I fell in love with the company and its mission. Moreover, I saw a great opportunity to learn by doing. I had the support of my leadership team to gain the experience and skill sets I desired. Luckily, I had the chance to grow with the company and see it expand its portfolio and presence worldwide. Both industries are challenging for women, but to be honest, that’s why I loved it since day one.
What advice would you share with a woman starting in this field?
Always believe in yourself, even when it seems impossible. You are more capable than people would have you think. Your opinions are valid, and you are just as smart and knowledgeable as the other men on the team. Don’t let their bravado fool you! Often it’s the ones who talk the loudest who know the least. Don’t be afraid to speak up and have your voice heard.
Do you get asked certain “woman” questions?
If by “woman” questions you mean things relating to my appearance or how I could possibly juggle all my work with motherhood, I’ve been fortunate – most people just leave me alone about that. When and if it happens, I think them so insignificant and I feel so embarrassed for the person that I don’t waste my time feeling bad, I feel sorry. Instead of putting myself in the victim position, I feel privileged for having more clarity and access to information than the person who is asking me the question.
Sexism, how would you explain the experiences?
I consider myself strong and well prepared to deal with sexism. One of the reasons is because tough challenges are key to my personal motivation. There is nothing more rewarding than listening to a sexist comment and proving with numbers and facts that the person is wrong afterwards. I’m not saying that it doesn’t affect me – I had several moments in which I smiled at the situation then turned to the next page and kept working. But afterwards, I had to hide myself to get my breath back.
However, when you start seeing it as a challenge to overcome and you end up accomplishing what you had in mind, no words are necessary. Nothing makes me prouder as a woman than looking back and seeing how many sexist voices I could shut up by simply continuing to achieve my goals – I truly believe that this is the most effective way to make them notice their failures and reconsider their way of thinking.
Melissa Myer and Meg Whitman made it to the top of big tech companies. Can they be used as examples of the tech field being diverse?
Melissa Myer and Meg Whitmann are both hard-working, highly intelligent women who deserve to be in the positions they’re in. Nevertheless, I would be careful of using them as “examples”, seeing as how they’re both white women from privileged backgrounds. The tech field is not diverse – to say anything to the contrary would be sort of ridiculous. Women make up 59% of the total workforce, but they only make 30% of the workforce in tech companies. To make matters worse, of the 41 Fortune 500 tech companies, only five of them have a female CEO. So while I applaud Melissa and Meg for their contribution to the industry, I don’t think they signify diversity in tech.
Tamy Ribeiro is Chief Mobility Evangelist & Head of Partnerships for Wunder Mobility based in Hamburg, Germany
Part 2 of the interview Coming Soon