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Fashion Feature

Influencer, HOW?

Trust Issues! 

Has the influencer trend come to an end?   Not sure, but change is taking place. Influencer marketing earned 1 billion in 2017 but the shine is beginning to tarnish. Marketing survey firm Bazaarvoice released findings concluding consumers are growing tired of staged posts by paid influencers.  Many of the surveyed responded the quality of the postings are turn offs, repetitive posts lacking originality.

Asked, 63 percent felt influence content has become too “materialistic” and “misrepresents real life. There is a feeling authenticity has been lost.  As well, 49 percent feel there is a need for tighter regulation of online posts.

Authorities on both side of the Atlantic have now started scrutinizing the influencer field. The United States Government Agency, The Federal Trade Commission has issued issued warning letters concerning paid posts without proper disclosing.  no enforcement has been enacted, yet. European Agencies agencies have actively notified influencers to delete undisclosed post. Many have lost court cases

Recently Dior made a social media splash by seeding the brand’s Saddle Bag to fashion influencers.

Dior Saddle Bag Social Media Success but at What Price

 The stunt felt cheap. Don’t get me wrong. I am a fan of the brand.  Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri won me over after the second collection. Openly giving away a $2000 bag on Instagram then expecting everyone else to pay, TACKY for a prestige fashion brand.

This is Social Media Pandering. Influencers who got the “freebie” did not even try to make good images of gift.  Pictures posing with the “trendy item of the season” were laughable, others cringeworthy. To add insult, lacking originality or fashion knowledge, there were plentiful but standard Junior High School Newspaper captions: “So happy to have gotten my Dior Saddle Bag”, “Love my Saddle Bag”.  An aspirational accessory felt like a retread jacket from H&M.   I hope “Fashion Degradation” does not go lower.

Social Media stars have become new celebrities, but if you ask what is their talent or appeal, the answer raises more questions: How does an app filter make a star?   How does an app filter make an expert?   I think we are still lost but going with the flow. 

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Fashion Feature

An Inspiring Master

Stepping into the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence was a dream. American press dubbed Ferragamo “Shoemaker to the stars”. Pickford to Garbo to Crawford wore his creations on screen and off.

Born the eleventh of 14 children in the Southern Italian city of Bonito. After opening his first shop at age 9 in his hometown, Ferragamo left his native Italy in 1915 in a third class berth for United States to learn more about footwear. Opening his store in Hollywood in 1923, the boutique was a patronized by Hollywood Stars. Fame and fortune followed, the quality of his shoes garnered the shoe designer a reputation known for luxury.

1927 was the year of Ferragamo’s First Class return to Italy on board the ocean liner Roma. Returning to his native country a very successful man, settling in Florence, the center of culture, style, and fashion. Purchasing the 13th century Palazzo Spini Feroni on the bank of the Arno River in the Piazza Santa Trinita, this would become the office and atelier of the privately held Ferragamo S.p.A.

I was given a personal tour of the Ferragamo Museum. Studying Cinema Costume in university, I came across the name Ferragamo often. It is a word I associated with the heydays of Hollywood Stars: Harlow, Monroe, Kelly, and Hepburn to name a few. Beyond the beauty of a shoe, I learned Mr. Ferragamo had an intellectual curiosity the body and footwear. He studied at University of Southern California as well as patented 400 inventions concerning shoe design.

The Museo Ferragamo is housed in the basement of the Ferragamo headquarters in Florence.

The museums exhibition is titled “The Return to Italy”. Ninety years ago Salvatore Ferragamo returned after 12 years in the United States. Creating a sense of being on an luxurious ocean cruise, the color palette was blue and white with the details of the ocean and sumptuous nautical travel. The presentation is spread over 8 rooms with each having a central theme. Room 3-Folklore and the Decorative Arts in Italy. Room 4-Italian Women. Room 5- “Industrious Florence of the 1920’s. Room-6 The Italian Home Room 7-The Body in Parts Room 8-The Body and Its Aesthetics. The exhibition is organized by Carlo Sisi.

The Museo Ferragamo is located at Piazza Santa Trinita 5/R Florence, Italy

Opening time from 10 to 19:30

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Fashion Feature

Grooming

Lqd presents Grooming Care for men.

Deeply cleansing for lifting away excess oils while moisturizing the skin, Lqd Face Wash uses fragrance free, foamless ingredients to ensure healthy sooth skin after usage.  Perfect for all skin types, Lqd is for the modern guy who cares about his daily skin care regimen.

 

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Feature

Instathirst NO!

Goodbye Instagram!   It was nice while it lasted but for some reason it never felt like a relationship beyond a necessary inconvenience. Black and Paper has decided December 31st will be the last day we post on the social media platform.  The thirst is real on Instagram and we are not thirsty. In an Age of Unrepentant Self-promotion mixed with suspect followers and likes, this is not the place for us.   It is better focus on our growing web site instead of getting lost in the mix of endless selfies.  Black and Paper is about informing along with inspiring; promoting creative people and looking for wonderful things to share with our readers.  We try to be genuine.  If the product does not fit, we do not recommend like many influencers for hire.  For these reasons we decided Instagram or “Instathirst” as we call it did not fit with our philosophy.  A Big “THANK YOU” to our followers!  We will post more pictures and commentary here on blackandpaper.com

 

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Feature Interview Travel

L’Homme Couture 2

Part 2 of the Black and Paper interview with photographer Brice Hardelin on his exhibition L’Homme Couture: A Photographic Odyssey. 

Brice and I had a good time talking about his work over a glass of white wine. His career is going forward in many directions. He had just completed a well received  male firemen calendar. He gave me a tour of his collection displayed on the wall of the hotel before continuing our interview.

How did the W Hotel in Paris become involved in this project?

My agent called to ask if I wanted to be a part of Paris Artist. It is an association of 150 artists in the city.   The Paris Artist asked if I wanted to exhibit at the hotel.  I organized a meeting. I liked the style of the W.  It is young, dynamic.  When the association asked the hotel who they wanted, the team chose me.  I know my pictures are provocative but the W Hotel was supportive of my work. There was no censorship.

What do you think of the artistic state of the world?

There are lots of things.  It is too Politically Correct.   It is more and more commercial and boring.  .  If you look at the big fashion magazines there are only places for big names and ads.  There is no space for new people. And for the big brands would stay away from images like these on the wall in front of you.  For them it is going too far. For me it is not far enough.

Is there a lack of freedom?

No! None! There is no freedom at all because they want the same pictures for their clients.  I have nothing against it because they have beautiful products but when you are a person with a different vision who likes to mix things like an African Mask with a Cartier Necklace no magazine  would publish it.

What do you think Instagram Photographers who are no considered professionals? 

I understand the platform but I have a problem with the business they are doing because they are making people think they are famous.   For me they are holiday, vacation pictures.  It is nothing! (Laughing)  It is reality television. On Instagram everyone wants to know what you are doing for lunch but no one really cares.  A person sitting on the toilet then the viewer goes to another image of another person sitting on the toilet! MEANINGLESS!   What is the purpose of having 50.000 followers and none of them can buy the product!   I use it of course like everyone else.

I am an old fashion photographer. I like prints Internet in a way is the death of photography.  I  No one wants real pictures.  They want one picture after another, quantity over quality.

What is your next project?

The exhibition runs until January. I have an exhibition in Belgium, then, I am looking for an editor for a book of my work.  I have editorials but I am thinking about a shoot in Africa.

L’Homme Couture is on display at the W Hotel  Paris until January 3rd 2018.

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Fashion Feature

L’Homme Couture in Paris

Part 1 of The Black and Paper  interview with photographer Brice Hardelin at the W Hotel Paris.

What is the L’Homme Couture Exhibition?

The ideal started with an editorial I did 4 years ago men with women’s accessories and jewelry.  I was approached to an editorial for Mellerio, the oldest jewelry house in Paris.  The brand was celebrating its 400th anniversary.  I had this idea to take a picture of a girl and a guy in their jewelry.  They were a bit of surprised because the jewels are normally worn by a woman.  The results were fantastic.  I liked the images a lot so I decided to continue the story.  That is what inspired my exhibition L’Homme Couture.

Is this a gender free exhibition?

We should be beyond labels.  If you think about fashion history, men were extravagant.  During the Greek and Roman empires, the Renaissance, and the 17th century men wore jewelry and make up.   Now everyone wears suits and sports clothes.  It is boring!  I am a fashion photographer.  Except some details, it is all the same.  I wanted to show something different, something to make people react.   There is no label on this.  I am a man born in the 1980’s.  There were all these pop groups from David Bowie and Duran Duran who wore make up and stylish clothes.  Suddenly in the 21st century, all is conservative.

What attracts you to the male form?

I like muscled guys but thin.  Fashion models are quite long.  I was fashion photographer for women at first.  When I came back from living in Montreal for a time, an agency contacted me to shoot a girl and guy for a test.  The agent liked the images of the guys.  After that I was getting booked to shoot male models.  Other agencies in the city started sending me only male models.  I was boxed into the reputation of working well with men.  I have been doing it for 10 years.  I do editorials with female models but with men time is not constrained.  I can shoot fast and explore other elements.  With female models there is more time needed to set ups on the hair and make-up.

What style of photographer are you?

Portraitist first then I am a fashion photographer.  For me the person is more important than the clothes.  I like character and attitude in front of  the camera.

L’Homme Couture is on display at the W Hotel Paris until January 3, 2018.

Part 2 of the Brice Hardelin interview will be online soon.

For more information go:Brice Hardelin

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Fashion Feature Interview TV

Yves Saint Laurent Museum Opens

 

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Feature

Romance Not Needed

Is there a price difference between a Homosexual Date and Heterosexual Date?  I learned there is on some levels.  While having a pleasant conversation regarding relationships and dating with a straight friend the chatter took a turn dating and investments.  Dating for straight men is like an investment.  Women like to be wooed,,, romanced.  Straight men have to play Romeos to get the Juliet’s.

My friend told me he has to pull out the credit card for dinner, cocktails, and cab service if he thinks he will get to first base or perhaps a homerun.  My friend is a red blooded straight man who went through moments of being undersexed.

Imagine his reaction when I told him for homosexual men the investment was cheap.   There was a location not far from where we were standing, for only 7 pounds including a free drink; oral sex was like a handshake.  His face froze in bewilderment.  The moment of disbelief broke once I said I may go there in 2 hours. I asked if he wanted to join but that was a case of too much, too soon.

Bringing our talk back to a reality he would understand, along with the fact I think he a bit jealous.  I told him romance is not in the equation when men are prowling for sex with other men.  It is physical, a release.  No names are involved, no conversation, just gestures, sounds of relief at the end and then all parties go in their respective directions.



 

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Fashion Feature Travel

Brice in Paris L’Homme Couture

The W Hotel Paris Opera is having an exhibition from Parisian photographer Brice Hardelin titled L’Homme Couture.

Black and Paper got an interview and tour of the collection.  The interview is coming soon.

 

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Feature

Less Means More

Did you know Heterosexual men invest a lot of money and time in the “chase” compared to Homosexual men?

With the extra money homosexual men save from dating, is it any wonder why we wear better shoes?

Stay tuned for the story.