Category: Interview
Check out our interviews with many interesting people talking about topics from fashion to technology. Stay up to date and get inspired from some amazing people.
Visiting one of Milan’s leading modeling agencies is always special because it gives me an opportunity to scout the latest trends in the modeling world. Joy Models is a world class agency founded 30 years ago specializing in high fashion male models with a client roaster including Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Stone Island, and Gucci to name a few.
During Fashion Week Milan Menswear I witnessed the high energy octane atmosphere of the office with the bookers preparing for the runway shows and presentations. I can honestly say, it is not for the weak. The phones were ringing, conversations were zinging across desks, and models were walking in an out of the office. It was a beehive of activity.
Booker Ilaria has been in the business since a high school internship gave her an introduction to the world of modeling which lead to jobs in New Delhi and Mumbai before back to Milan.
Is Fashion Week a tough time?
Oh Yes! I have no a life outside the office the week before fashion week. Casting directors are under a lot of pressure to get the right models for the shows. The late night request calls for models to come to fittings at hotels and ateliers. Everyone has deadline pressures, schedules.
Any late Night Calls?
Once, it was really late, 11 or 12, I was going to bed, suddenly, I got a call from a casting director who desperately needed a model for a fitting. I do not know how this person got my number, no clue! It is still a mystery.
Is the “Fashion Week Rush” like this every season?
Every Season!
Are you developing new faces at the moment?
We are not taking new models now. We want guys with experience. We developed models only to have them leave once their books are strong. It is a thankless business. Models call about jobs all the time. We put them forward for castings but the final decision is not ours. When they do not get the job they are upset. It is a Thankless Job!
What are the current trends in the modeling world?
A number of Asian Guys are on the runway. Koreans are strong now. Older guys are and gender free looks are popular. Diversity has become important.
But there are challenges in the field. Models have to compete with celebrity kids and Instagram influencers for jobs. Budgets have gotten tighter.
India has a lot of potential. I worked there for 4 years. There are many good publications. The market for modeling is growing.
Joy Models is a Milan based modeling agency representing many well-known faces in the fashion business. For more information go to: Joymodels.com
Sandra Seeling Lipski is the Festival Director and Founder of the Mallorca International Film Festival. 2016 marks the 5th anniversary of the Mediterranean event. This year’s honorary is famed actor, director and producer Danny DiVito.
The Black and Paper interview with Mallorca International Film Festival Director Sandra Selling.
What distinguishes the Mallorca International Film Festival from others?
There is an intimacy to the festival. We attract a number of guests from all over the world. What really makes Mallorca different from other festivals, we are the only festival in the world with a drive in cinema, for 2 nights we show 2 films. The sound is delivered over the frequency of a local radio station. This year there will be a screening of War of the Roses.
Is the Festival more focused on independent cinema?
We were called the “Sundance” of the Mediterranean. But yes we are definitely a place for independent filmmakers to show their works.
Why did you choose Danny DeVito as this year’s honoree?
Mr. DeVito started working in independent cinema scene in the 1970’s. His career evolved but he remained true to his artistic beliefs. He just completed a film with his kids. Plus, Danny is positive and funny.
As a creative director what do you look for in regards as festival entries?
My attitude is Surprise Me! Fresh! In December of 2015 I saw no films. In January I started screening films. The German film Wild by Nicolette Krebitz, blew me away! It is the story of a relationship between a woman and wolf.
How are you facilitating diversity in the festival program?
Being a woman I am drawn to female directors but I also want this festival to be a bridge to different cultures. It is about opening windows. I am always looking for something fresh, new stories, themes, filmmakers who take chances. I recently saw a documentary on transgendered men who dress up as their mothers to share their stories about how their mothers feel about them. It was emotional.
How are you facilitating networking for filmmakers?
Our Café con Cine is a breakfast where we invite people to come and speak, mingle, and discuss in a relaxed atmosphere. There is the Producers Club and many panels on different topics. All of the festival action takes place in the center of the city. Afterwards, participants usually go to bars for drinks and tapas.
What are your favorite films?
Great Expectations, Born To Be Blue, (The story of Chet Baker) both are with Ethan Hawk, I am a fan.
Casino was the first adult movie I saw. Loved it! I had a connection with Bridges of Madison County.
Victoria (From director Sebestian Schipper) was a cinematic experience. It really knocked my socks off! All was done in one take. Laia Costa (Lead Actress) was amazing.
The Mallorca International Film Festival takes place from November 3rd to the 12th. This year the festival will screes 17 films along with 6 documentaries.
Sandra Seeling Lipski is an international actress based in Los Angeles and Mallorca. She is a graduate of the Los Angeles Film School with a degree in directing in producing.
Cristiano Burani is a Milan based designer of head of his eponymous label. Known for his use of vibrant colors in his collections, Burani studied fashion design at New York City’s Parson. He has worked for Versace Jeans Couture before moving to Blumarine. His first collection debuted in 2010 in Milan with the support of Vogue Italia and Camera Nazionale della Mode Italiana.
Cristiano gave an interview to Black and Paper after his Spring/Summer 2017 collection fashion show.
Your collection went from dazzling stripes to a sophisticated suit, (Look 34) why?
My fashion show is about the expression of the same woman in different times of her life, from day wear to holiday to evening cocktail. I like the idea of being eclectic and switching from casual to “elegant”, always with cool attitude.
What inspired the collection’s theme?
The Collection is inspired by my love and sensibility for colors. There is a combination of sporty details together with feminine shapes layered with a lot of technology in the new pleated and over printed fabrics.
When a woman wears a look from this collection does she want to get noticed?
A woman wearing my collection doesn’t necessarily want to be noticed. She has consciously decided to wear unique and exclusive pieces entirely made in Italy, with a semi couture process. That is what makes all the looks so special.ter
What was the material used for looks 11 to 15?
The material used for the two plain outfits is viscose chenille. I like the idea of using leisure fabrics for a suit which are between smoking jacket looks and pajamas but with a sporty reference.
The oversize belts are a great detail, how did you develop those?
The oversized belts are another sport reference. They are entirely stitched by hands using grosgrain ribbons of various different widths.
Black and Paper interview with THE ONE Grand Show Star, Valerie Inertie.
Hailing from Quebec, Canada, Valerie is a combination of physical grace and athleticism with a passion for physical expression she has developed during her long career of dance and acrobatics. She has lived in Berlin since 2013. An admitted adrenaline sports enthusiast, she has been doing acrobatics since the age of 3. As a Cyr Wheel Artist she has performed around the world to critical acclaim.
How did you become involve in THE ONE Grand Show?
I was in the Christmas Show 3 years ago at the Friedrichstadt-Palast. I had a good connection with the director, who said I had a strong presence, and he asked me if I would like to get involve in a show he was planning which was The One Grand Show.
How do you feel about wearing the Gaultier Costumes?
They are fantastic! It is an honor to wear them. As an acrobat the challenge is the movements in the costumes. Gaultier asked for my input. We developed a hook-clip quick released.
This is a very physical show for you.
Yes. I had a lot of input for my role, to make it work for me. I have choreography, and aerial performances. I fly on a high speed wench, then an aerial hoop, and the Cyr Wheel. As a dancer the period of movement is longer but as an acrobat the period of movement is shorter but more intense.
The physical staging is woven into the storyline.
Absolutely! There is an artistic link between everything; the dancing and acrobatics. They are a part of narrative not a side story.
What are your future plans?
For 2019, after the run of THE ONE Grand Show I am developing a Cyr Wheel Act then in Switzerland I will take part in the 100th anniversary of circus.
Valerie Inertie can be seen in THE ONE Grand Show in Berlin at the Friedrichstadt-Palast.
Images by Vladimir Sichov.
THE ONE Grand Show
French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier has arrived in Berlin collaborating with the Friedrichstadt-Palast for the stage show The ONE Grand Show. Opening October 6, the 11 million euros spectacular show features performers from 26 nations with 500 costumes on the world’s largest stage. Director and writer Roland Welke is the creative force behind “THE ONE Grand Show” employing streams of images in the form of slow motion effects, cross fades, and multi-dimension effects. The show is nothing if not ambitious on all levels from staging to the physical movements and acrobatics of the performers.
Starring German Eurovision Song Contest representative Roman Lob as the young party guest and Brigette Oelke from the musical “We Will Rock You” in the role of the theatre manager THE ONE Grand Show is packed with tunes from Kate Victoria and Gregor Meyle.
I sat for a preview press performance of THE ONE Grand Show in Berlin. The costumes were classic Gaultier albeit a little toned down, with eye catching looks filled with, counter culture sexuality mixed with plaid men’s kilts, conical bras, Breton stripes, panel, nude toned body suits, and iconic corsets. A perfect combination of dancers and Gaultier, the former understood the fluidity and fun of the creations by the Parisian couturier without being dominated by them, not an easy feat but they pulled off.
I admit it. I wanted to see the costumes from Mr. Gaultier and they did disappoint. Androgyny, a wide color palette all infused the stage like a field of butterflies. I would not say the looks were provocative for 2016 but titillating for mainstream audiences, pure eye candy delight. There are so many signature looks it is a bit difficult to include them all but the ones that stood out were: Red conned dress with red hairstyles, the nude tones on the male dancers, colored splashed suit, and of course the feathered outfits. If you are a John Paul Gaultier fan you will not be disappointed.
THE ONE Grand Show is currently at the Friedrichstadt-Palast in Berlin.
Images by Vladimir Sichov.
Stay Tuned for all the happenings in the City of Lights.
“We Russians are crazy and that is normal.” This is a quote from my Q&A interview with Russian photographer Vladmir Sichov. For over 30 years Vlad has covered the world of sports, politics, celebrity, and fashion before retiring.
Born in Capital City of Kazan, Tartarstan, 800 km from Moscow, Vlad bought his first camera in 1965 while studying at the university. As he would tell me, “nothing really mattered after I started taking pictures.” Street life in the Soviet Union was his subject. Sichov was a member of the unofficial art scene of the Soviet Union.
In 1979, he emigrated to the West landing in Vienna then later moving to Paris. While there famed photographer Helmut Newton saw his images prompting him to urge Paris Vogue to give Vladamir a tryout leading to a 2 year stint as a photographer for the publication.
In 1980, his stark pictures of everyday existence in the Soviet Union help propel him to become the most published photographer in the world with numerous editorials in magazines ranging from Life, Paris Match, and Brunte.
Having recently moved to Berlin from Paris, I met him for a café and a conversation about his extensive career filled with fascinating stories about his life, capturing moments set against different historical backdrops.
Why did you become a photographer?
I lived between the rail station and market in an industrial city named “Kazan” in a country that no longer exists. People were always walking by, now they drive, but back then life was at my window. I bought myself a Soviet Camera, Zenit, when I was a student in University 1965 in a Jazz band playing the saxophone. After I got my camera, I was hooked. I had to buy black and white short end film stock from cinema students. Kodak film was too expensive.
What was it like being a photographer in the Soviet Union?
I spent time in jail. Many of friends were dissidents, not a part of the system. I had exhibitions in my apartment of unofficial art from 1973 to 1979 with artists who were not accepted by the system.
You had to leave the Soviet Union.
“If you live in a cage you want to see what is outside.” I did not have the privilege to leave because I was not in the circle. You could leave for Israel so I got an invitation from there because I knew people. I got to Vienna where I was stateless and had nothing. When I had exhibitions in the Soviet Union diplomats came to my flat so I had friends from the outside. I waited in Austria for a diplomat to smuggle my works to the West. When I left the USSR (1979) a person could carry nothing except what was on your back. I was the first photographer to leave the USSR with my archive.
After your time in Vienna you went to Paris?
Yes, straight to I met Sipa News Agency from there to Paris Match. The editor liked my work. Back then the press was managed by people who had a passion for news, fanatics who worked 360 days of the year.
What is your connection to Helmut Newton?
Helmut saw my work in Paris Match. He convinced Paris Vogue to give me a test shoot. In the September 1980 issue I had 40 pages of Haute Couture. Fashion was a new world for me. During my life, my friends were people outside the system. Then suddenly, I met Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent, and Rykiel.
Part 2 of the interview coming soon