During my time in Florence for Pitti Uomo. I had a tour of the Ferragamo Museum.
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Black and Paper did not actively participate in Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin the past week because 1.) We had planned on going to Paris for men’s week but the weather caused problems. 2.) Given the challenges surrounding the past Berlin Fashion Weeks we felt it was better to sit this one out and wait for the feedback. 3.) Berlin is a creative city where many come to spread their wings, but as a fashion city it will never become a major influence on the level of Alpha Fashion Capitals Paris or Milan. Perhaps it could muscle its way into the third-tier levels of fashion cities given the importance of clothing trade fairs that occur during Fashion Week.
Did MBFW succeed this year when so many others failed in the past? New organizer, a new location, scaled down calendar, it depended on the level of expectations. Berlin pretends it does not want to go in the direction of other fashion weeks, they always repeat the same talking points of “being cool” “alternative” yet organizers offer nothing new or fresh during fashion week, just runway show audiences stocked with influencers and former girlfriends of football players.
Black and Paper is not subscribing to being fashion snobs regarding Fashion Weeks but being realistic. There is great appreciation for the dedication, work, and sacrifice, the designers and their teams do to put on credible runway shows.
Berlin needs more than an idea and Public Relations to execute a plan on becoming a style influence on the Spree.
Black and Paper is based in Berlin.
Portuguese designer Miguel Vieira interprets masculine looks melted with the Rock & Roll, not veered on the safe side staying on the edge of classical looks. Stage superstar looks made of jacquards and faux fur were central themes of the collection. The press released read, “a celebration adventure” I would agree, but make the adventure concludes in a trendy night time bar.
I was not too crazy about the waist bags. I felt a bit awkward. A man wearing this look would not want that type of bulge.
Overall, Vieira’s runway show was worth the wait. Milan Fashion Week Men should be happy to have this Portuguese export.
All images taken with the Canon G1X
Stay Tuned for the latest from Milan Fashion Week Men 2018 Fall Looks.
Our reviews and features are coming soon.
London Fashion Week
Wales Bonner tailored nautical inspired looks are flattering for the slim figured man. Loving the solid colored suits in both black and white.
Not so overwhelmed by the Chalayan collection as I found the shapes interesting. The outerwear in with the padded coats and and cloaks caught my eye, definitely for the gentlemen who like it classic with a touch of edginess.
Man just decided to throw it all out the window and go with the flow of modern times, knock down all the barriers. This is a show and collection about shapes, sizes, colors, and genders. Let The Sunshine In!
The Queen of the London Fashion Scene, Vivienne Westwood, stayed true to herself and her brand, simply expressive in the Westwood Way. The theme of the collection was “war” with camouflage and striped worn by the a Moroccan colonel. The British designer went the gender free route for some looks, with looks for men in dresses and floral tights.
With a new creative head, Joseph is moving forward in a way I like. Francesco Muzi did not go for a radical approach for his first collection for the brand but refashioned looks with lengths whole keeping the palette subdued.
Black and Paper head to Florence for Pitti Uomo. The 93rd edition of the fashion fair is where all the latest menswear and trends are unveiled, newest styles in everything from shoes to luggage. The coverage starts tomorrow until the 12th. Of course we will have coverage of the dandy fashion show from the Wall.
London Fashion Week Men
A creative capital that is once again remaking itself in the Brexit Age is still a force in streetwear judging by the initial looks from Mensweek. London is a city where fashion designers are never afraid to take a risk, ripping up the script then doing it differently.
Oliver Spencer’s interpretation of accessibility combined with a fresh look of today. Mixing a few female looks, the designer seemed to have been in a state of past Chic London when he came up with this very masculine collection, the everyday dandy. I liked the jackets because they looked so elegantly casual.
I cannot put my finger on why I like Cottweiler’s 
collection. Utility, sportswear mingled in streetwear looks that were about strength using leathers along with blue dyed print trousers with shoulder bag my favorite. Ben and Matthew have a great eye for fashionable guy wear with street cred The compliant from Vogue, the run way show was too dark.
Playful, colorful, but all the wearable, Band of Outsiders used ski equipment to go along with images of the Fall 18 collection. Track pants and outerwear were the highlights of the collection with an eye on humor.
London Fashion Week Men takes place from Jan 5th to Jan 8th.
Belgian designer Dirk Bikkembergs is always about the sexy man. Spring 2018, staying true to form, the looks favored the man who embraces being looked at in all the right ways, masculine eye candy. The black looks were my favorite.
Black and Paper liked the Spring 2018 collection from Hermes. It was accessible, relaxed from a brand associated with absolute luxury. There are the classic touches of leather jackets; soft and light.