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Fashion

Berlinale Day 4

Director Agnieszka Holland

Esteemed Polish Director Agnieszka Holland (I like her past films) debuted her latest film Spoor, an adaptation of the book by Olga Tokarczuk.  A crime story with touches of black comedy, the three time Oscar Nominee attended the Belinale Press Conferece to discuss the film.  The title of the 2009 book is Drive Your over the Bones of the Dead.  After reading the book Ms. Holland thought it would be easy to adapt as a feature, after 17 script drafts and doctoring the film emerged set in a remote part of Poland once claimed by Hungary and Germany, a national no man’s land of sorts.  Hunting, animal rights, environment, ecology, and social subjugation are all themes played out.   Was this film political in text?  According to the creative team “no” but given the modern political environment In Poland and the world the film has taken a political angle.   The film is not propaganda but art.  People are either fighting for something or against something.

The Spook Press conference began too political. I would have liked to learn more about the film than the political situation in Poland and the mechanisms of the government.  I will get more feedback on the film.

The effects of a partitioned India and Pakistan are themes covered in the film The Last Viceroy from director Grunider Chadha starring Gillian Anderson and Hugh Bonneville.  The helmer took a multi-point of view to one of the great geo-political events of the 20th century by giving a viewpoint to the ordinary people as well as the Viceroy Mountbatten and the politics of an Empire in its sunset.  Did the Director play it too safe? Has this type of costume drama been seen many times?

The press opinions of the film were mixed.  I think it is a film worth viewing on Netflix.

Director Yance Ford

The documentary film Strong Island is hard hitting timely topic in the age of Black Lives Matter.  Director Yance Ford chronicles the murder of his older brother, shot by a garage worker,  and the effects it had on his family.  A mother riddled with doubt, a sister who went in denial, and the physical downfall of his father.  It is a film that begs questions, but it cannot answer all.

See my upcoming interview with Mr. Ford.

Arri Feature coming soon.  I visited the Arri Lounge during the Berlinale to learn about the new camera devices.  For all of my filmmaker readers, stay tuned.

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Fashion

Raf Simons at Calvin Klein

Raf Simons made his debut at Calvin Klein during NYWFW.  I can honestly say I had no clue what was going on concerning the collection.  An iconic American brand in need of restart Mr. Simons with his pedigree was suppose to give a boast to the label,  make it Chic Again.

Simons first collection is a bit of everything looking for direction.  CK has been a brand known for minimalism, sexuality, and denim.

His interpretation of denim is to make it like a rigid Catholic School uniform.  The Minimalistic  looks were like crayons out of a box, a bit of a mess. The Sexy looks were more vulgar with the Nude Sheer Shirts for men.

I have high hopes for the designer even if this collection was a bit of a  misfire feeling like a vintage reworking. Raf’s  work at Jil Sander and his own label were the stuff of legends.

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Cinema

Berlinale Report Day 3

Director Danny Boyle

Up Date The Dinner did not live up to its level of artistic pretentious. Bloated, missed the mark,  who cared were the comments.  I was told not to waste my time.

The reviews for Trainspotting have been “OK” but no rave reviews.  Does the tale of a group of aging misfits from Glasgow resonate today?

As usual this festival season, politics became a topic with reporters asking questions concerning Brexit.  In this hyper political age Director Boyle states his film is not political.  It is a story of life’s disappointments, a post modem.

Early news on the new Stanly Tucci debut directorial film has been met with a lack of enthusiasm.   The screening is today.

Up Date: A labor for 10 years, actor, director, producer, and writer,  Stanley Tucci’s Final Portrait arrived at the Berlinale.  Sadly, it was not the welcome a filmmaker would like to have.  Based on the last 2 years of the life of painter Alberto Giacometti, played by Geoffrey Rush, the film portrays the artist as a man who lives a life without consequences.

At the press conference helmer Tucci described the film making process of using handheld and two cameras for coverage and the color palette.

Armie Hammer and Stanley Tucci during the Berlinale Press Conference for the Final Portrait.

Can I recommend this film? Based on the reactions in the press area, NO, because the press conference felt more like a firing quad than a film festival, which is always a tall tale sign of a films reception.

Final Portrait stars Geoffrey Rush, Armie Hammer, and Clemency Poescy.

Is Wilde Maus from Austria the breakout film?

Up Date: There were smiles after the press screening of this dark comedy, Wilde Maus/Wild Mouse, Austrian Actor, Director, and Writer Josef Haider’s story of a Viennese Music Critic who loses his job and esteem.  A well-known performer in his native country, Haider decided to star and direct in his own film after realizing what he wanted to do with the feature.  Saying, he could not imagine another person directing him or another actor playing the lead role he wrote.  Hating the casting process of auditions, the director pulled actors, George Friedrich, Jorg Hartmann, and Pia Hierzegger, from his personal relationship circle, asking them to be spontaneous on the set.    Judging by the favorable response from the press core I think he succeeded with his debut directorial effort.

 

 

 

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Cinema

Berlinale-Reports

Berlinale opening film Django received a lukewarm response according to press room feedback.  Clichéd, typical, and wooden Nazi characters is how the  biography feature on jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt has been described.    Judging by the reactions I think I will pass.

The Dinner with Richard Gere and Laura Linney.   Director Oren Moverman’s film based on the Herman Koch novel just finished the press screening.  Was it any good?  I am waiting for the instant reviews. The applause before the Q&A was less than enthusiastic.   Attention was turned to politics with responses on the state of the US Executive Branch, Gere gave a blistering rebuke of Mr. Trump.   Mr. Gere and Ms. Linney noted The Dinner is there third collaboration.

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Cinema

Berlinale

Berlinale

The 67th Berlinale opened with some political questions on the agenda but Jury President Paul Verhoeven stating he was here to judge the quality of the movie, not the political perspective. Mr. Verhoeven said he expects to see a lot of movies that are different and have heated arguments with respect.

Jury member Diego Luna addressed the current global political tones by saying, “I am not here to send messages but I am here to listen.”  When asked about the proposed wall between the US and Mexico Luna commented, I have good memories crossing the border from both sides.

As a film festival Berlinale has always had a political edge but this year the jury seemed more pragmatic, less overtly ideological.

Berlinale makes an effort not to be taken over by market forces said fellow jury member Olafur Eliasson.

Addressing the issues concerning the state of Hollywood and the lack of Adult Movies, the bottom line mentality has taken control of the industry.  Studios and Producers only want to invest in films with big returns.  Film Director (Total Recall, Elle, and Robo Cop) Verhoven discussed the challenges of trying to get his latest film Elle produced.

Berlinale Jury: Paul Verhoeven, Dora Bouchoucha Fourati, Olafur Eliasson, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Julia Jentsch, Diego Luna, and Wang Quan’an

Berlinale continues until February 20th.

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Fashion

Milan Fashion Week-Looks from Luca Larenza

During Milan Fashion Week Milan Menswear I attended the Luca Larenza presentation.  My verdict?  I liked it  The collection was centered on knitwear along with a print look wide stripes. The designer had classic touches mixed youthful and modern twists.

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Fashion

Pitti Uomo with Lucio Vanotti

Founded in 2012, the Lucio Vanotti brand philosophy is minimalism. Chosen by Giorgio Armani to present his collection in the Armani Theatre, this season the designer displayed his latest menswear looks at Pitti Uomo in Florence.

Mr. Vanotti preferred loose fitting silhouette that elongated the body with stripes and high waist fittings.

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Fashion

Roll or Fold

Do you fold or do you roll for a trip?  One of the main concerns for men packing for travel is how minimalize wrinkles.   Philips has solved this problem with a convenient device Steam&Go 2 in 1 Handheld Garment Steamer.  Compact, able to fit into a carry on or a 48 hour bag, the Steamer is the perfect device for quick touch ups of pants, shirts, ties, and suits.  Clothes are ready to go and wrinkle free.  The question of fold or roll has been answered.

For more information on Philips Steam&Go 2 in 1 Handheld Garment Care Device go to: Philips

A Black and Paper Production

Photographer:Dale Grant

Stylist:Hercules Terres

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Fashion Interview

On Your Mark, Get Ready, Model!

Visiting one of Milan’s leading modeling agencies is always special because it gives me an opportunity to scout the latest trends in the modeling world.  Joy Models is a world class agency founded 30 years ago specializing in high fashion male models with a client roaster including Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani,  Stone Island, and Gucci to name a few.

During Fashion Week Milan Menswear I witnessed the high energy octane atmosphere of the office with the bookers preparing for the runway shows and presentations.  I can honestly say, it is not for the weak.  The phones were ringing, conversations were zinging across desks, and models were walking in an out of the office. It was a beehive of activity.

Booker Ilaria has been in the business since a high school internship gave her  an introduction to the world of modeling which lead to jobs in New Delhi and Mumbai before back to Milan.

Is Fashion Week a tough time?

Oh Yes!  I have no a life outside the office the week before fashion week.    Casting directors are under a lot of pressure to get the right models for the shows.    The late night request calls for models to come to fittings at hotels and ateliers.  Everyone has deadline pressures, schedules.

Any late Night Calls?

Once, it was really late, 11 or 12,  I was going to bed, suddenly, I got a call from a casting director who desperately needed a model for a fitting.  I do not know how this person got my number, no clue!  It is still a mystery.

Is the “Fashion Week Rush” like this every season?

Every Season!

Are you developing new faces at the moment?

We are not taking new models now.  We want guys with experience. We developed models only to have them leave once their books are strong.  It is a thankless business.  Models call about jobs all the time.  We put them forward for castings  but the final decision is not ours. When they do not get the job they are upset.  It is a Thankless Job!

What are the current trends in the modeling world?

A  number of Asian Guys are on the runway.  Koreans are strong now.  Older guys are and gender free looks are popular.  Diversity has become important.

But there are challenges in the field.  Models have to compete with celebrity kids and Instagram influencers for jobs.  Budgets have gotten tighter.

India has a lot of potential.  I worked there for 4 years.  There are many good publications.  The market for modeling is growing.

Joy Models is a Milan based modeling agency representing many well-known faces in the fashion business. For more information go to: Joymodels.com

 

Categories
Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Men-Edhen

Italian based shoe designer Edhen takes sensual to the next level this collection.  The sparkles of details mixed with the classic is what I loved.  A man can express a lot without saying a word wearing these shoes.

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