Tag: anna wintour

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Fashion

Fabulously Applying the Same Remedy.

In the “Here We Go Again” category, another month, another headline on layoffs at the big publishing houses.  It is hard to imagine who will be left to write about a perfume review. It is hard to see just how many more staff members can be fired from a company becomes dysfunctional. Applying the same not working remedy for the same long term illness has not worked.

First, Hearst, the Eight Avenue headquartered publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Cosmopolitan announced 200 employees would be fired.  President Debi Chirichella gave the usual excuse of allocating resources to support goals, etc. The reality is the company may employ A.I. to produce articles.  Hearst’s flagship title Harper’s Bazaar will publish one less print edition next year, from ten to nine.

The second announcement of fashion magazines meltdown came from Conde Nast.  The collection of prestigious magazines released underperforming financial figures.  On Thursday December 5th, GQ heads rolled along with other workers.  Last year Group leader Roger Lynch fired 5% of the staff, decamped to cheaper digs in London and New York City while trying to pivot to digital realms. Claiming ad buys are down, costs are up, the Vogue owner is seeking new bottom line cuts.

Plush Meltdown

As this plush content calamity happens, the great survivor Anna Wintour continues with the title Chief Content Officer over several titles. The simple question is, why? The strategy of jettisoned international editors has failed, one template for all local versions has failed.  Editors are now working across multiple titles and platforms.  What made Vogue magazines unique has become as exciting as eating at a global fast-food chain. Conde Nast became a sinking brand extension of Wintour.

Hearst and Conde Nast are going to have to search for new ideas as 2025 looks to be difficult year with conflicts, consumer pressures and business cutbacks. Will the once uncontested style gate keepers be relevant? Dinosaurs existed until one day they did not.

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Fashion

Met Gala’s Garden

The Met Gala happened yesterday.  The ultimate “LOOK AT ME “Red Carpet ceremony went off without a hitch after brokering a last-minute deal averting a strike involving NewsGuild members of Conde Nast employees. Anna Wintour took center stage.  The Vogue head has transformed the event into the most important annual fashion ritual on the calendar with global celebrities and business tycoons attending.   

This year’s theme “Garden of Time” was inspired by JG Ballard with hosts Jennifer Lopez, Bad Bunny, Chris Hemsworth and Zendaya.   The dress code inspiration centered on nature with proceeds going to the Costume Institute. 

Admittingly, this year’s looks were striking.  The designers got the memo, then went to work. 

Way ahead of the pack, Cardi B., the rapper took over the scene with a more means more black strapless look.

Zendaya is the Modern Queen of the Red Carpet, no argument on this end.  The Dune star decided to have two looks for the night by Maison Margiela. 

According to Vogue Gigi Hadid’s dress White Rose dress took 13,500 hours to create.  The Thom Browne creation is a mix of satin and silk moire with thorn appliques and the off the shoulder corset.

Gwendoline Christie in a Masion Margiela black and red ensemble was a subtle stunner.

In the “Only eat one carrot a day” the Sand Dress from Balmain worn by songstress Tyla will rank as a Met Gala standout. 

Barry Keoghan’s Burberry three-piece suit with top hat took the Beau Brummell prize for romance and elegance in the menswear category. 

Has the Met Gala aged well?  Red Carpet bashes feel more ponderous than glamorous. The format comes across as modern as our grandparent’s prom pictures.  

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Fashion

Fashion’s TOPSY TURVY

As the fashion world moves along its topsy turvy twists and turns, the latest news makes a person’s head shake.

MET GALA

The MET Gala is coming up.  The New York City Soiree is the Red-Carpet event for the rich and famous.  Anne Wintour’s grand showcase is where fashion labels pay a celebrity to show up looking gorgeous.  The proceeds from this “charity” go to the Metropolitan Museum.  The irony, Vogue, along with parent company Conde Nast is planning to lay-off 100 workers. As the magazine struggles for footing, the fashion powerbrokers are having a ball while saying” No money to pay the workers”.   The term “Out of Touch” comes to mind. 

Conde Nast staff is taking this laying down.  The soon to be ex-employees are planning an action.  Workers are planning an action to circulate flyers near the venue with the slogan “Anna wears Prada/Workers get nada.”  NewsGuild of New York announced the intention is to bring attention to the ongoing negotiations.  While the Queen of Fashion is toasting many of her subject writers may need to open GoFundMe accounts to pay rent.

Reality

In the “Was it ever real” category, luxury online shopping has imploded. Until recently, once the darling of investors, the so called “savior the fashion world” is going out of style faster than bell bottoms.  E-commerce sites hit valuations of $25 billions and higher, those days are gone.  Matchesfashion went belly up with a heavy debt load owing 200 vendors, including luxe labels Victoria Beckham, Gucci, Max Mara and YSL.  Administrators are selling office furniture.  Customers will not get refunds or have orders finished.

Farfetch, the Paris base digital shopping giant has fallen on hard times as consumers cut back on high-end spending. 

While attending fashion events in January and February buyers from these platforms were going around trying to convince brands all was good, no need to worry.  Please keep doing business with us.  How did they do this with a straight face? 

It is only April. 

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Fashion Feature

Karl & The Met in the New Gilded Age

Met Gala

Karl Lagerfeld took front and center at the Met Gala 2023. KARL LAGERFELD:A LINE OF BEAUTY was the theme of fashion’s biggest Red Carpet. The legendary German helmed the luxury house Chanel for 37 years.

Vogue editor Anna Wintour along with co-hosts Rodger Federer, Dua Lipa, Michaela Coel and Penelope Cruz brought the glitz and glamour to the exclusive Red Carpet affair, raising money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

As with so many other gilded events, this year’s Met Gala came across as awkward. Imagine putting together an IKEA shelf with a 12 degree leftward angle.

Would we go to the most exclusive party in the fashion world? This would be a hard a question to answer. Who wouldn’t want to be a part of the club? However, it’s no secret the fashion industry is swerving on a mountain side road. Retailers as well as brands are feeling a hard pinch. Consumers have cut spending on clothing. Weak brands are falling while the strong ones struggle.

Reality? Who Cares!

Conde Nast has not been immune from shifts. The publishing house has fired staff, issued pay cuts and is decamping in Louboutins for newer, speculation is,,,, cheaper, digs.

I was recently speaking to a press agent about the speed of the change. No one knows who is in charge of publications. Email contacts now have a “no longer working here” instant reply. Journalistic quality has become questionable. What is an objective review? Magazines are now platforms for hire where if you do not pay there is no coverage. Press invites are more of a kin to potluck events, bring your own dish. In the past, agent relations were about seduction with Goodie Bag samples, generous catering and a conversation.

The Good Ole Days are gone. What happens now is more similar to a used car salesman in a polyester plaid suit trying to close a deal before the buyer becomes aware. As many press agents have lost clients, so have their kissing on the cheeks budgets decreased. Only the “In Crowd” may get a trinket. Food, maybe, is a croissant from a corner supermarket, if the lowly overworked intern has time to grab them. Call me adaptable, these days I pack a protein bar with a bottle of water for fashion press events.

Which brings me back to the Met Gala. Sure, it looks great, gilded circus food, cotton candy on a stick. But how long can you eat cotton candy?

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Feature

Anna Wintour-A Survivor

Boy, did I get this wrong. Anna Wintour is the Great Survivor. The ultimate editor in chief had a hard 2020. Not only are magazine sales plummeting, Black Lives Matter has placed a spot light on company policies. By her own admittance, Vogue was not a friendly work place for people of color with a lack of diversity. Then came the remarks from ex bff Andre Talley. Speculation was rife, those sunglasses would be packing up, leaving the New York Conde Nast headquarters at the right time. 

The past few weeks have major exits of international Vogue editors. Chinese founding head Angelica Cheung departed in November. It was last week, when I got a sudden message, German Vogue chief Christian Arp would leave her position at Conde Nast in December citing personal reasons after 17 years at the magazine. Business of Fashion reported Arp was pushed out. Vogue Spain editor Eugenia de la Torriente resigned last month. What is going on at the publishing house?

Vogue head Anna Wintour
Talk About Being WRONG!! Wintour from Vogue

Not All On One Card

Conde Nast honcho Roger Lynch has decided to streamline operations as well as have one voice over all 30 titles. Ms. Wintour’s new titles are Chief Content Officer and Global Editorial Director of Vogue. Thankfully, I do not think she needs to worry about putting all that on a business card. Lynch states, “Anna’s appointment represents a pivotal moment for Condé Nast as her ability to stay ahead in connecting with new audiences.” An interesting comment given the realities of the past year.

The Statement

The more interesting variable is the rise of Vogue UK chief Edward Einnful. His approach has made the title relevant. Mr. Einnful will oversee France, Germany, Spain and Italy Vogue editions.

It is no secret magazines have struggled over the past years. Vogue and Conde Nast have not kept up with the times. Ad budgets have spread across different platforms. Print sales have declined. Titles have closed. Staff layoffs. How does this new deck chair arrangement change the present landscape for Conde Nast? Instagram and Tik Tok have become the place for instant fashion influence and inspiration. I see cost savings in this revamp, but no fresh ideas. That could be a continuing problem for the Vogue team.

Categories
Fashion

Same Story, Different Day

 Anna Wintour hit the headlines of the New York Times yet once again for the wrong reasons. The proclaimed most powerful woman in the fashion world has been under heavy criticism for Vogue’s lack of diversity.  Black voices sidelined at the publication were the norm.  Fashion magazines were or less country clubs for the elite.   Slim white women from well to do families had the best positions. A place were rich wives “worked” telling other rich wives what to wear for the season.  I attended a public state school, a person of color. I knew Vogue as a place  closed to my type.  

Read my fast response to the NYT 

  • Vogue head Anna Wintour
    Wintour from Vogue

The question raised again: Should Anna Leave?

Categories
Fashion

Will Anna Stay?

Vogue head Anna Wintour
Wintour from Vogue

The famous silhouette at Fashion Week for the past 32 years. The perfectly coiffed helmut hairstyle. Oversized sunglasses. Statement Necklace. Calf-length dresses. Admired, feared, and copied, Anna Wintour commanded attention. Whether on purpose or not, when she entered the room her presence was felt far and wide. 

Vogue Head Anna Wintour 

As the daughter of famous newspaper editor Charles Wintour, publishing runs through her veins. Vogue USA sits at the top of a diminishing fashion magazine landscape besieged by the digital platforms. Now the resurgence of Black Lives Matter has placed the once venerated title and its editor in a cross hairs.   As the pressure mounts for a more socially responsible outlook, many want answers about the lack of diverse voices in the fashion field, particularly at Vogue. Will Anna Survive?

The “C” Word  

In Anna’s defense, her first cover model was Naomi Campbell in 1989. But, in 2020 the entire organization feels like a social club trapped in an episode of “Mad Men”. First, Andre Talley, former Vogue Editor at Large, released excepts from his book calling Wintour “A Colonial Broad”. OUCH!

Side Note: I plan on reading Mr. Talley’s book “The Chiffon Trenches”. I have some questions with a raised eyebrow concerning his new found “Identity” and “Sour Grapes” tell all.

I cannot remember a designer or creative of color championed by her or anyone at the publication. Based In New York City, I fail to see why it was difficult to find a Black Photographer. It took singer Beyonce to insist on one for her cover shoot. Former African American staff members (the few who worked there) complained of bad treatments and lazy stereotypes.

Can She Stay? 

If a letter to Vogue staff on lack of support for African American Staff members was suppose to put out the fire, it only threw gasoline on a flame. Conde Nast Chairman Roger Lynch during a staff phone call defended the embattled Editor in Chief. Stating, “Wintour is staying put”. But with opens calls inside and out insisting on her resignation, it is hard to see how this corporate position is sustainable.

How will fashion handle this increasing awkward relationship? A one time asset suddenly has the potential of being a liability at fashion week. Social Media could be unforgiving if that scrutinizing silent gaze is sitting front row.

My Thoughts 

As for my real opinion. It was no secret many publishing houses were and are cultural insensitive.  I would not have met the “hiring profile”.  Vogue USA never impressed me on the creative level. It did not take risks. Nor did I find it particularly stimulating or at the forefront of style. It was about the establishment. Who made into the club. However, guilty as charged, I read the September issue.

Earning a reputation for control, Anna Wintour has learned as the rest of us, no one is in control during these times.

Categories
Fashion

Vogue on Milan Fashion Week

Spring Collections will soon be in the stores.  This is what Vogue editor Anna Wintour thought of Milan Fashion Week Spring 2018.