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How Did We Get Here?

Ineptness. Greed. Political Correctness. Self-Preservation. Denial. As the Coronavirus marches across the globe containment is the strategy. Slowing down an enemy that is dangerous, deadly, with no moral conscience. The world has its work cut out. Entering a crisis tunnel on one end, not sure how or when we will exit. Further, what happens when we get out of the tunnel. One thing for certain, the landscape will be different. 

Fingers Crossed

Remembering Naomi Klein’s book The Shock Doctrine. I wondered what Draconian legislation would pass. As whole countries are in lockdown,afraid, and distracted. It would be easy. Yet, as each national government member seems to be hiding under a desk hoping the virus does not affect them. Some come out before the cameras with Deer in the Headlight Facial expressions trying to calm the masses with martial laws and curfews. Will this work? The “Keep the Fingers Crossed Strategy” is all they have left. 

Clearly, the possible end of modern society triggers reflection. How did we get to this situation? Wuhan, a beaming metropolis representing the best of modern China had a problem in a market. Corvid 19 was born. A virus jumped from one species to another. 

A Chernobyl Repeat 

This is not the first hazard from the Middle Kingdom, the 2002 SARS crisis. Nothing learned since then. At the start of November 2019 during the first cases, the party threatened, then arrested Medical Whistleblowers. The second phase involved a massive cover up, denial. Communist officials Another viral epicenter emerged from the most populouscountry. By January the secret was out. The CCP’s “Chernobyl PR Strategy” fell apart. 

The World Health Organization lavished praised China’s leaders. The UN body became willing propaganda tools. Adhanom’s gushing over Jinping’s handling of the crisis at times came across as abused partner acceptance.  A combined health and political institution started sending pandering messages to the world with an all over the place narrative.  Praise the leaders who allowed the raging fire to gain a foothold. Then allowed the fire to jump across to other houses. WHO heads went out the way not naming the virus after a region or a specific group. Admirable, but the press conference omitting a fact. Global Chinese Travelers became unknowing carriers, Patient Zeros, of a virus that eventually radiated to shutdown the world. 

Profits First 

How do you keep commercial access to world’s second largest economy, with a massive consumer market? Do not anger their masters. Prioritise profits and investments over the salvation of the human race. The reason airlines and countries did not cut off travel from China was simple. Cash! Leaders did not want to anger the CCP. Greed has a place at the table while responsibility looks through a cold window. Large investments need guarantees. A slight to thin skinned ranking officials would cause financial problems.. Country heads continually dismissed the growing health outbreak. Any chance to mitigate the situation got lost. 

As the global lockdown continues, I wonder who will take the blame for this catastrophe. Populations are stunned, but once this wears off, many will demand answers, many uncomfortable. Changes will come whether the leaders want them or not.

Finally, the curious part of the live ongoing sci-fi drama. The rewriting of history has began. The CCP is hailing itself as a “saviors”. The party “overcame” the adversity it wrought by sheer power of its strength. A bit premature considering the history of pandemics. This is the same as an arsonist setting the barns on ablaze then hailing himself a hero for calling the fire department.

As the daily headlines continue to take surreal turns, we can only ponder the question. How did we get here in only 4 months?

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Fashion

Fashion Week Conversations

The Fashion Week Tour has started, yet the fashion business becomes more precarious. This year the challenges are too big to bury our heads in the sand. While we sit on rows during shows, mingle with each other over a sparkling wine, the warning bells are ringing louder. 

Stores Going Wrong

Macy’s, the American retail institution announced the closing of 125 stores, including a Bloomingdales. As a major mall anchor store this is bad news for brick and mortar traffic.

John Lewis, the British High Street staple faces a turbulent future. Sharon White, group head, warned store closures are on the table. The vulnerable department store is having trouble attracting in store clients.

The other Knightsbridge Department store, Harvey Nicols struggles with not so fabulous numbers. 

Dallas based luxury chain Nieman Marcus carries over $5 billion in debt. I saw their buyers at a fashion week event. I wondered what were they buying. When a  retail chain holds a liability of that size, the space for maneuvering is limited.

A Ripple 

The Big Elephant in the Room, a new virus, Coronavirus. A little known city, at least from my point of view, of 11 million inhabitants, Wuhan, has become the epicenter of a possible pandemic. The second largest economy on the planet, closed until further notice. The ripple effects, or tidal wave, are being felt.

Every major fashion house and corporation have large investments in the Middle Kingdom. The short term outlook looks bleak. Chinese consumers count for 30% of luxury goods. Most stores have closed. Burberry reported an 80% sales drop. Is this an harbinger of things to come? We can expect profits shocks in the near future. Secondly, many luxury city destinations will take a hit. With all flights to China cut, retail outlets in Paris, London, and New York will see falling numbers from fewer tourists. More concerning, the light at the end of the tunnel is still out of sight. 

Increased Unknown

Supply chains have come to a stand still. The interruption will possibly be felt by consumers in September. Adidas, Uniqlo, H&M, Gap, etc are heavily dependent on closed Chinese factories. 

Fast Fashion junkies could see an increase in price. Production and logistics will have to be re-thought. The “Made in China” imprint has taken a hit. Brands must come-up new solutions to avoid future interruptions. These may involve moving factories to new locations, perhaps back to USA or Europe.

Yes, there will be some interesting conversations during these fashion weeks.

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Fashion

An Interview with Xu Zhi

A Black and Paper Exclusive

London based Chinese fashion designer interprets feminine looks using progressive materials paired with constructive elements of design.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, Xu founded his label in 2014, achieving success with his collection available in many prestigious stores in Asia and Europe.

The young designer showed his Fall 2017 collection in Milan during Fashion Week at the Teatro Armani with support of Mr. Armani and National Chamber of Italian Fashion.   Cutting edge denim, braids, and the color blue were the central themes along with leather.  The collection showed confidence from a young designer willing to go in his own fashion direction.

As a new designer, how are you planning to attract loyal clients?

My brand is very much based on longevity. We are taking time to really assess who the Xu Zhi woman is, and offer collections that will enhance both their lives and current wardrobes. Also, in continuing developing the house style, we hope to familiarize yet still excite our customer season after season.

You use high quality materials, where are they sourced?

It is dependent on the season, but largely from Italy and France.

How did you feel about being supported by Armani and Camera Moda at Fashion Week?

Incredibly humbling and hugely exciting that, as a young designer, our hard work has been acknowledged.

What inspired the deconstructed looks?

It originally came from the idea of trying to imitate brushstrokes with fabric, and how that could be achieved in different ways. This resulted in the deconstructed element you refer to.

What type of woman would wear look #5?

The Xu Zhi woman. Decisive, commanding and assertive – yet approachable, humble and refined.

Where will your brand be in the future? 

I think we’re growing organically – it’s difficult to say where it will be, but I’d like it to be in the closets of the woman we’re trying hard to speak to with our pieces.

Xu Zhi collection can be found in Dover Street Market, London, Lane Crawford  Hong Kong, and Opening Ceremony, Tokyo.