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Fashion

Milan MFWM Fall 21

Milan Fashion kicked off in the virtual mode this season. We the world under some form of lockdown, buyers and press are unable to travel. The Italian fashion capital put its best foot forward but going direct to the point. Filming closed runway shows instead of Calvin Klein Commercials. I want to say “Thank You”. 

It’s easy to spot the trend this season: staying home. All is casual. For Italian designers this could be a blessing in disguise. Comfort took center stage. Using quality fabrics and relaxed looks that could transition from home office to going out for a stroll worked on many levels. It felt a bit as if the designers are under less pressure with some reinvention in their minds. Is a new classic emerging?

ZEGNA

Fendi

Eleventy

David Catalan

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Fashion

Pierre Cardin Remembered

French Italian fashion designer Pierre Cardin passed away yesterday. France 24 remembers the groundbreaking designer known for his futuristic styles using shapes and materials. A true pioneer in the fashion world had a sixty year career in fashion working for Christian Dior. Cardin created styles for luminaries as The Beatles and Elizabeth Taylor.

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Fashion

Beirut Stays The Course

From France 24, Beirut’s fashion scene thrives in the middle of chaos.

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Fashion

From Milan With LOVE Pt#3

Black and Paper presents From Milan With Love by Flora Marcella Cusi with Gabi Thiam wearing Borsalino Hats and Colmar Outerwear.

In the Mirrow
Looking Chic

Stay Tuned for more from the series.

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Fashion

My Highlights from London

The United Kingdom is going through a lot. A government just holding its head above water, under siege on all fronts. Like the rest of the world, Covid has taken a toll on the country. Citizens refusing to understand the gravity of the virus. The Brexit drama continues its tortuous walk to an end of a year climax. 

On the fashion side, London Fashion Week, the smallest of the Big Four events mixed online and live shows. I have always had the opinion the British capital city charts a different course from Milan, Paris, and New York. The ability to make “quirky” work. To take a classic style, then completely transform the look with an edgy print, material, or cut. This is London’s secret as a fashion tolerant city.

My Highlights 

Burberry by Tischi, not a great collection shown in a forest setting. But I liked the solid colors of blues and oranges. The mix of denim on an all weather coat not so much. Save that for the influencers who take 30 selfies a day.

As an American, when I saw Erdem’s collection I though of romantic fantasy from an 18thcentury novel. The story reads, woman meets man on a walk, they fall in love but have others while longing for each other. The long lengths, whites and soft floral prints would be worn by the heroine of the tale. 

I am not familiar LaQuan Smith but better late than never. Street fabulous meets Glam best describes a brand that goes for sex appeal without the guilt.

Halpern decided to feature real front line workers in his presentation. Normally, I am not in favor of “real people” as models. However, his creations were about empowerment merged with optimism. Frilling Pom Pom Dresses and suits made of spirited colors and prints.

Emilia Wickstead’s white sail boat prints, cropped tops and cottons made for delightful collection. I wished I had been there to touch each piece. The complication was the fact each delicate look came across as simple.

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Cinema Fashion

The #13

For some 13 is a number representing bad luck.  For us, this number represents success.  We were placed on 13 Best Dressed List from the Cannes Film Festival Fashion Reports.  For our first job and collaboration, we are thrilled. 

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Fashion

Fashion Theatre from Marras

The Antonio Marras Show at Milan Fashion Week combined a catwalk with live performance theatre. I was not sure what I was suppose to watch, the models, the singers, the stage shows.  The unique setting in an antique space made the event all the more theatrical. 

A Kiss 

The collection mixed  dark romanticism with a 1930’s feel of frivolity.  

The final walk.
Music from Bensound 
The Performance 

Sponsored by Canon Deutschland

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Fashion

Has Gucci Gone Too Far?

Has Gucci gone too far? A recent the New York Times article asked the question, “Is Gucci stylish or tacky?”  The answer could go in both ways according the perspective. Gucci embraced the modern. In many ways the looks reflect the “Selfie Times”.  See me! This is what I got! Instagram posting moment! Because life is not about being subtle.  Because these designs are made with social media in mind, it is all about the post. During Fashion Week Milan in February I got an up close and personal go see of the entire collection at the Gucci Campus in Milan.  Creative Director Alessandro Michele has taken the brand into new areas unashamed personal expression. For those who like the subdued, buy a British Heritage Brand.

Cap

This Fall Collection mixed with pop references and styles. There is no one silhouette. It is about being photographed in the here and now, no matter what is worn. The aesthetic is classic meets frivolity, everyday items charged with bling. The pieces can be mixed and match with streetwear for a standout effect, casual jeans with a baseball cap emblazoned with a “G” on top. For bag fanatics in all of us with the urge to show off, the exotic skins and shapes with shining details are there. You cannot help but get noticed with this accessory hanging on your arm. The details are many, such as embroidery, logos, and prints.

What I liked the most was the overcoat with a twist of three visual styles. One half was traditional gentlemen’s gray while the other mixed tartan with an animation print on the bottom. The gender look is menswear but in reality it could be effortlessly worn by anyone. Honestly, I would not wear an entire Gucci look. It would overwhelm me. One piece would be enough for an entrance.

Gucci Fall 2018 looks are available in stores.

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Fashion

London Fashion Week Men’s with Blood Brother

Edgy London based street wear brand Blood Brother presented its collection at LFWM on June 10th.    Designer Nicolas Biela bends casual wear conventions with colors, materials and shapes but makes it all wearable.  The most noticeable look was a black long coat. Judging by the enthusiasm of the youthful crowd at the presentation I would say you can count on seeing a few of his pieces in clubs next year.

Images powered by Canon EOS M6

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Fashion

An Interview with Xu Zhi

A Black and Paper Exclusive

London based Chinese fashion designer interprets feminine looks using progressive materials paired with constructive elements of design.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, Xu founded his label in 2014, achieving success with his collection available in many prestigious stores in Asia and Europe.

The young designer showed his Fall 2017 collection in Milan during Fashion Week at the Teatro Armani with support of Mr. Armani and National Chamber of Italian Fashion.   Cutting edge denim, braids, and the color blue were the central themes along with leather.  The collection showed confidence from a young designer willing to go in his own fashion direction.

As a new designer, how are you planning to attract loyal clients?

My brand is very much based on longevity. We are taking time to really assess who the Xu Zhi woman is, and offer collections that will enhance both their lives and current wardrobes. Also, in continuing developing the house style, we hope to familiarize yet still excite our customer season after season.

You use high quality materials, where are they sourced?

It is dependent on the season, but largely from Italy and France.

How did you feel about being supported by Armani and Camera Moda at Fashion Week?

Incredibly humbling and hugely exciting that, as a young designer, our hard work has been acknowledged.

What inspired the deconstructed looks?

It originally came from the idea of trying to imitate brushstrokes with fabric, and how that could be achieved in different ways. This resulted in the deconstructed element you refer to.

What type of woman would wear look #5?

The Xu Zhi woman. Decisive, commanding and assertive – yet approachable, humble and refined.

Where will your brand be in the future? 

I think we’re growing organically – it’s difficult to say where it will be, but I’d like it to be in the closets of the woman we’re trying hard to speak to with our pieces.

Xu Zhi collection can be found in Dover Street Market, London, Lane Crawford  Hong Kong, and Opening Ceremony, Tokyo.