Tag: fashion blogger

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Fashion

Fashion Week Relevance

I had a conversation with Magazine Editor Alexander Popov from Effect Magazine. Are fashion weeks needed in theses times? Travel restrictions, publications squeezed, brands under pressure, returning to the normality of fashion seasons looks far off. From empty chairs at shows to buying things we may or may not need.   We had a fun discussion on theses topics and more. 

 Click below to watch the webcast. 

Who needs the latest Gucci Bag these days? 



Alexander  Popov is Editor in Chief of Effect Magazine.  He regularly attends fashion weeks, but this year viewed the shows remotely.  Hopefully next year life will be different. 

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Fashion

My Highlights from London

The United Kingdom is going through a lot. A government just holding its head above water, under siege on all fronts. Like the rest of the world, Covid has taken a toll on the country. Citizens refusing to understand the gravity of the virus. The Brexit drama continues its tortuous walk to an end of a year climax. 

On the fashion side, London Fashion Week, the smallest of the Big Four events mixed online and live shows. I have always had the opinion the British capital city charts a different course from Milan, Paris, and New York. The ability to make “quirky” work. To take a classic style, then completely transform the look with an edgy print, material, or cut. This is London’s secret as a fashion tolerant city.

My Highlights 

Burberry by Tischi, not a great collection shown in a forest setting. But I liked the solid colors of blues and oranges. The mix of denim on an all weather coat not so much. Save that for the influencers who take 30 selfies a day.

As an American, when I saw Erdem’s collection I though of romantic fantasy from an 18thcentury novel. The story reads, woman meets man on a walk, they fall in love but have others while longing for each other. The long lengths, whites and soft floral prints would be worn by the heroine of the tale. 

I am not familiar LaQuan Smith but better late than never. Street fabulous meets Glam best describes a brand that goes for sex appeal without the guilt.

Halpern decided to feature real front line workers in his presentation. Normally, I am not in favor of “real people” as models. However, his creations were about empowerment merged with optimism. Frilling Pom Pom Dresses and suits made of spirited colors and prints.

Emilia Wickstead’s white sail boat prints, cropped tops and cottons made for delightful collection. I wished I had been there to touch each piece. The complication was the fact each delicate look came across as simple.

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Fashion

Black Fashion Designers

Harpers Bazaar takes a look at Black Fashion Designers over the years.   

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Fashion

An August & September Read

Long sleeveless evening dress in ivory bias-cut silk georgette shaped through torso with pintucked design of roses; slit neckline, shirred shoulderline with self tie attached at right; flared circle skirt; matching crepe chemise underdress with camisole neck and scalloped hem; couture, with picot edge and hand stitching

Exhibitionism-50 Years of the Museum at FIT


Clearly, at 96 pages this book is not a long read. Even so, size did not curb my enthusiasm. On Page 10 seeing the costumes of MGM costume designer Gilbert Adrian in color for the first time. I became hooked. I had a bit of a swoon seeing the red dress worn by Crawford. 

Edited by Valerie Steel and Colleen Hill, the pictorial pages engaged me with brief descriptions and histories of curated exhibits at the museum. The selection covers 33 important exhibitions with background, context, and inspiration.  The authors give references for each exhibition.

Paul Poiret Looks 


Madame Gres, a one time rival to Chanel, created exquisite looks for film actress Dietrich.  Sadly, many today do not recognize the name. The great designer covers 2 pages.  I appreciate the images of Gres’ form hugging collections. All designed for the feminine shape. “Sculptural Beaty” is the quote from book.  I felt inspired reading through the pages.

Gothic Dark Glamour 

Without a doubt, there is something for all fashion lovers; covering topics on Asian Fashion Designs, the influence of Ivy League looks on menswear to Global Fashion Capitals.

Madeleine Vionnet 

  • Long sleeveless evening dress in ivory bias-cut silk georgette shaped through torso with pintucked design of roses; slit neckline, shirred shoulderline with self tie attached at right; flared circle skirt; matching crepe chemise underdress with camisole neck and scalloped hem; couture, with picot edge and hand stitching

 Valerie and Coleen made a book that is cosy when it would have been easy to overwhelm.  Indeed, Exhibitionism-50 Years of the Museum at FIT fits as a perfect August read while on a terrace.   I recommend soaking in a few chapters before the fashion week calendar starts in September.  

The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology celebrates its 50 anniversary this year.  Founded in 1969, it continues to be an innovative space for fashion curations.  

To order a copy go to Amazon or a local book store. 

Categories
Fashion

Pitti Uomo

WOW! I am covering my first Pitti in Milan.  It lives up to its reputation as a place to go menswear fashion on a global level.  On dDAy one we met designers, stylists, PR, and of course the famous Peacocks strolling around the trade fair in with all their colors.

Then of course, what is a tradeshow without the after work events, we were not disappointed.  The first show was a tribute to Ciro Paone, Mr. Kiton, the luxury suit maker,  The journey of the man behind the label was in 6 parts from starting with the Family to the Quality.

The setting for Kiton event was spectacular,  Palazzo Gerini, A Florence Palace in the center of the city.

NEXT, We jumped in a shuttle and went to the next  event for Golden Goose Sneakers.  The setting had the “WOW” effect, in an abandon train station with a skateboarding venue set in the center.  Slowly the lights went down, then, BOOM, Flashing Lights,  Skateboarders in Gold Jackets.  I am not familiar with the Golden Gooose brand but this event peaked my curiosity to learn more.  We will report more in the future.

Stay tuned for more features from Florence.

 

Categories
Fashion Technology

Hasselblad Review

hasselbladHasselblad X1D Review

How did you start as a photographer?

I became a photographer by chance.  I was studying International Relations in Paris, then panning to go to London to study law but as fate would have it I had a good friend who was a photographer.  I began assisting him then fell in love with the camera and photography.  That is how I started my career.

What camera do you normally use?

I have always used Nikon cameras,  usually I work with the D750 and the D810.

You tested the Hasselblad X1D, What where your initial feelings about the camera?

I was curious when the opportunity arose to see how the mirrorless medium format performed because I knew the reputation of the brand. When I have important commercial shoots and the budget allows I place Hasselblad on my wish list, great image quality.  However, I was never hands-on with a camera because I let my assistants do all the necessary adjustments and settings.

Testing the X1D I was very hands-on.  It feels great, light, the ergonomic grip is comfortable.  Usually, I use a neck strap because I do not want to risk letting the camera drop out of my hand, especially one that costs 9400 euros.

I found the camera setting menu very well edited.  It felt like I did not have to go through as many camera settings in the menu as I do with my Nikon.

I really enjoyed the touch screen for viewing and settings, very simple.

zzb7027771How fast can the X1D shoot images?

The camera is fast but focusing can be difficult.  Maybe I was doing something wrong but the lens I was using (XCD 90mm f/3.5) only had one focal point. I had to focus on the model and then reframe the image while my finger was pressing the shutter button half way down.  I am used to the Nikon focal multiple point system.  I found this annoying because it resulted in unfocused pictures.

Using a Medium format camera was there a higher level of expectation?

Yes! The expectation was higher and I was not disappointed.   The images were sharp.

Was the Camera Interface Intuitive?

Before reading the camera manual I wanted to see how intuitive the camera was for a new user.  The camera interface is adaptable quick, ready to usage for a short period of time.  I was able to make adjustments and began shooting.   The manual was good for referencing, very complete.

The Auto Focus Mode

The Auto Focus was very fast, perhaps faster than my Nikon.  I was shooting in low light but I had no problems with the setting.

ISO Mode

Shooting in low light I sometimes had to shoot as high as 6400 iso but I did not lose the image sharpness.  The grain quality was acceptable when blowing up an image 100 times in Photoshop.

Battery Life

This was my biggest disappointment.  I went through a fully charged battery after only shooting 500 images.  Luckily there were extra batteries in the test kit.  For outdoor shooting where there is no access to electricity the camera is a disadvantage.

The fashion production you shot with the X1D, how did the camera perform?

zzb7027553Overall I enjoyed shooting with the X1D.  I could use high ISO settings in addition to opening the aperture to 3.5.

I was happy with the results I produce with the Hasselblad X1D.

 

Dale Grant is professional photographer, instructor, and Black and Paper contributor.

For more information: www.dalegrantphotography.com

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Fashion

Fashion inspired by the 70’s and 80’s

France 24 reports Winter Fashions Inspiration

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Fashion

Fashion Designer Pedro Pedro

Pedro Pedro

Pedro Pedro attended the Academia de Moda do Porto before creating his own brand in 1998.  He is the winner of the I Mode European Fashion Awards 03 in Brussels.    Pedro Pedro looks have been featured in Vogue, Elle, and Collezione Dona.

For his 2017 collection Pedro Pedro held a runway show during Milan Fashion Week.    He gave the Black and Paper an interview after to describe the collection and his inspirations.

The opening pieces were breezing then moved to muted tones, why?

The theme was all about a David Lynch movie named “Dune”, and it’s located in a post apocalypse world dominated by a great desert, so that’s why it goes to sandy shades of beige and pastel colors.

Being from Portugal, how does this influence your outlook on clothing?

We are living in a Global Age where the information flow is the same for everybody, access to the same news and images at the same time.   So maybe my approach to a particular theme is as particular as me being part of this country, Portuguese sensibility of style.

More Below

What was the design approach?

I think the theme asked for this kind of approach, usually I like to show a cooler, looser shape and this time I went further with adding asymmetrical details in a fluid and softer materials.

Soft feminine looks were central to the collections, do you feel woman are moving away from gender neutral looks?

I am big fan of mixing gender and I always have a masculine approach into my designs. Mostly there are some tailored coats, parkas and trousers that can be ambiguous.

There were no accessories this season, all was clean.

There were some styling effects with basic bags designed by me and a partnership with shoes manufactures, those were also designed by me.

Categories
Fashion

Agnes B. at Paris Fashion Week

Agnes B. stayed true to form with her Spring 2017.  The looks had a coquette feeling of a lady taking a leisurely walk along the Seine River.  Leather skirts with soft sweaters, sheer, and pajama looks all combined for a soft retro influenced collection.

Highlights:

 

Categories
Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Part 5

Does Milan have a signature style?  If making the best clothing is a signature style, then I would say, “YES”!

Alitalia’s new uniforms

 

Black Beauties from Marie Claire