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Fashion

Edward Enninful is IN & OUT

Edward Enninful, Vogue’s first person of color Editor-in-Chief has moved to another position at the publishing house. It was a sort of a shocking announcement, with the usual “thank you for your support” and other clichéd niceties. The Ghanaian born’s new title is “global creative and cultural advisor” for the publishing house. That is a big title to swallow, imagine on a business card. Starting in 2024 Vogue UK will no longer have an EIC, but an Editor of Content. That means less money, less power, with all final decisions made in the United States.


For some time there has been an open secret of a rift between the Queen of High Fashion Anna Wintour and the British title head. Rumours of cold shoulders were rife, Edward not appearing at Vogue World in New York. Mr. Enninful has been the face of the fashion world’s move to inclusivity. Placing many no so typical faces on the cover. My questions, beyond the bubble hype, did these issues sell? Do readers buy fashion magazines for “activism”? The paradox of wearing a $10,000 dress while screaming a social cause is not exactly the same as Gandhi crisscrossing India demanding liberation from the British Empire.

Activism Cover


Parent company Conde Nast has struggled over the digital years. Once fashion’s standard-bearer, today, the glossy pages come across as the faded opulence of your once glorious yet struggling aunt who has not come to terms with modern times. Instagram sets the fashion clock today.

The other hint of tension happened on June 1st when Wintour announced her plan for a London Vogue World event charity benefitting the arts scene. Enninful’s name was conspicuously missing from the announcement, a big slight for the ultimate UK based fashion insider. Even predators on the Serengeti respect each others’ territory, not New York’s Queen of the Magazines.

Edward learned what others knew. Those Prada’s will walk over anyone to stay on top of the rag trade press.

Categories
Fashion Feature

Karl & The Met in the New Gilded Age

Karl Lagerfeld took front and center at the Met Gala 2023. KARL LAGERFELD:A LINE OF BEAUTY was the theme of fashion’s biggest Red Carpet. The legendary German helmed the luxury house Chanel for 37 years.

Vogue editor Anna Wintour along with co-hosts Rodger Federer, Dua Lipa, Michaela Coel and Penelope Cruz brought the glitz and glamour to the exclusive Red Carpet affair, raising money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

As with so many other gilded events, this year’s Met Gala came across as awkward. Imagine putting together an IKEA shelf with a 12 degree leftward angle.

Would we go to the most exclusive party in the fashion world? This would be a hard a question to answer. Who wouldn’t want to be a part of the club? However, it’s no secret the fashion industry is swerving on a mountain side road. Retailers as well as brands are feeling a hard pinch. Consumers have cut spending on clothing. Weak brands are falling while the strong ones struggle.

Reality? Who Cares!

Conde Nast has not been immune from shifts. The publishing house has fired staff, issued pay cuts and is decamping in Louboutins for newer, speculation is,,,, cheaper, digs.

I was recently speaking to a press agent about the speed of the change. No one knows who is in charge of publications. Email contacts now have a “no longer working here” instant reply. Journalistic quality has become questionable. What is an objective review? Magazines are now platforms for hire where if you do not pay there is no coverage. Press invites are more of a kin to potluck events, bring your own dish. In the past, agent relations were about seduction with Goodie Bag samples, generous catering and a conversation.

The Good Ole Days are gone. What happens now is more similar to a used car salesman in a polyester plaid suit trying to close a deal before the buyer becomes aware. As many press agents have lost clients, so have their kissing on the cheeks budgets decreased. Only the “In Crowd” may get a trinket. Food, maybe, is a croissant from a corner supermarket, if the lowly overworked intern has time to grab them. Call me adaptable, these days I pack a protein bar with a bottle of water for fashion press events.

Which brings me back to the Met Gala. Sure, it looks great, gilded circus food, cotton candy on a stick. But how long can you eat cotton candy?

Categories
Fashion

This Time,, Jeremy

Another Fashion Earthquake shook the industry this week. Jeremy Scott, creative director of Moschino, departed from the Milan house. After a decade of creating merry whimsical designs mixed pop culture references, the Kansas City born announced his resignation. Four months after the Alessandro Michele’s shocking exit from Gucci. Jeremy was always good for the colorful, Katie Perry’s 2019 Met Gala look took a funny bite of the Red Carpet.

Moschino

Famed for being tongue in cheek, Moschino, founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino, brought fun intertwined with sex appeal to ready to wear.

With sudden high profile resignations, the righting is on the wall, fashion seems to be shifting away from flamboyant. The question, Fashion:What is Going On? Who is next?

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Feature podcast

Evolve or Go Away

Coming up on Before Tacky Podcast a discussion about the state of retail in the fashion world. With store closes how will chains survive?

Galerie Kaufhaus
Struggling German retailer recently asked for more government aid.
Categories
Fashion

Fashion Lowdown Preview

Today, I read Gucci’s sales fell 10%. Sales in China saved the copernicus luxury brand from collapse. Last week LVMH put the brakes on Superstar Rhianna’s fashion line after two years. These stores are not a surprise in the current environment where consumers are in a holding pattern. The Black and Paper Fashion Lowdown report has been in the planning stages for a few weeks. I got tied up with other features. Also, the daily news from the fashion and retail world floods my in box. Keeping up with the fashion industry headlines evolved int a full time job. I read the daily using press. One grim reminder after another on the new world we are navigating. Layoffs, bankruptcies, unsold merchandise, the end is not around the corner. 2020 was a great reveal. 2021 will be reality.

Shopping Mall mothballed since December.

After having conversations with fashion professionals from around the world, my conclusion is: Uncertainty. A reset will happen, a slimmer. more grounded business.

I promise to make the Fashion Lowdown podcast. 

Categories
Fashion

Fashion Biz Trends

Continuing my conversation with Editor Alex Popov.  We moved to the topic of Fashion Biz Trends.  What do we expect to happen in these uncertain times? How will fashion evolve? No easy questions to answer. But, we had fun.  

Stay Safe.  

 

Categories
Fashion

Here is Fashion in 2020

The Coronavirus has changed every business in ways we have yet to digest. Business models will crash. In fashion, retail brick and mortar stores have struggled competing against online sales. The end is near for many storied chains. The crash in consumer demand will put the last nail in the coffin. Habits will change, malls will seem like relics of a past civilisation.  

The print magazine is on its last leg. Carrie Bradshaw reading Vogue over coffee in a New York cafe was the stuff of fashionistas dreams. Collectors get your plastic wrap ready. 2020 will usher in the last print issues for many titles. Because retail stores have closed for the outbreak. Buying toilet paper and pasta has taken precedent over the latest Spring Kors bag. Many brands will stop buying ads. Because of  high overheads, publishing houses will struggle with new rounds of cost cuts.

Influencers face a balancing act. The travel influencer field has collapsed, like the industry. Anyone want to buy a plane ticket today? Freebies with cut, copy, and paste, stories will begin to feel trivia. Brands will now employ tighter messaging to engage consumers in the troubled times. Daily doses of wannabes aspirations will feel out of place. Who cares about a daily selfie. It maybe time to get real job. The new real influencers are medical workers.

In a quick update.  I wanted to mention the factories producing clothing.  They have completely shutdown in many parts of the world.