For some reason Paris Fashion Week felt a bit desperate for attention this season. Pandering is never good. In the crowded landscape designers are under pressure to get that viral moment to stand above the rest. For this reason, some collections looked disjointed, a circle in a square peg. Creatively, the City of Lights fashion scene has become overly vulnerable to smartphone scrolling.
Paris Fashion Week Valentino
The big news, Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino. The stage setting fitting for the Rome born designer: dreams and romance. That was the problem. Valentino was a brand of refined elitism. Jackie O to Joan Collins, the Jet Set Crowd wore the label as an emblem of being in a certain club. Alessandro’s collection, while lush, comes across as garish compared to the house’s past styles. While in doubt of the 51-year-old talent, his Gucci era heavily influenced looks on the runway. It is no secret Kering Group invested in the house, perhaps a way to challenge Louis Vuitton in the uber luxury brand category, however, as soft luxury is trending with shoppers, why did they allow Alessandro to drive the opposite direction?
Paris Fashion Week Balenciaga
Demna at Balenciaga continues to challenge what makes fashion, fashion. The French label is popular with young buyers. The oversized sneakers were a must have for anyone under twenty-five. The giant logo on shirts worked in the Selfie Age. In 2024 the Georgian born returned to what he did best. Oversized jackets that belong on a lifeboat and baggy jeans were runway staples. Inner wear for the night, perfect for going to the 1920’s KitKat club. Do these looks work with young people looking for the lowest price on an app? Only the book keepers at Balenciaga know the answer.
Stay tuned for more fashion weeks coverage and more episodes of the Before Tacky Podcast.
I happened to go over my Twitter account last night, suddenly, to my shock, on the Louis Vuitton account there was an announcement of Virgil Abloh‘s passing. My first thought was Covid. After reading the announcement Virgil lost his battle to cancer at age 41.
As the first African American head of a major fashion label, Virgil inspired me and no doubt countless others. He shattered a glass ceiling. Founding the fashion label Off-White in 2012, the Rockford Illinois born designer made a name for himself by establishing a must have streetwear brand worn by celebrities such as Kayne West and Jay Z. In 2018, being appointed the head of Louis Vuitton menswear placed Abloh at the pinnacle of the fashion world.
Two shows that impressed me this Couture Season, Fashion House Balenciaga returned to Couture stage this season after 53 years. Hard shoes to fill, Cristobal is revered in the fashion world. Creative head Demna Gvasalia had his hands full. The expectations of failure came to my mind. Happily, “disappointed” because Demma step up the plate, swung the bat for a home run. Reinterpreting a master is not easy, finding a modern balance with a line to the heritage. Let’s consider the world is still suffering from Covid 19. Why introduce a couture collection? A long shot.
The lamp shade hats hooked me. Showstopper! The glorious piece topping a wool sleeveless frayed looks. Of course the over size suits hit the eyes with the glorious sensation of a child seeing cotton candy, sheer delight.
Valentino
Valentino in Venice, not the normal location for the Italian house to have a Haute Couture fashion show. But, these are not normal times. Staging the catwalk in Italy, Pierpaolo Piccioli pulled the pride card, who can blame him given Italy’s
struggles over the past 17 month. Doing what Valentino has done best, matching the classy with the spectacular touching on ethereal. The vibrant color palette gave the touch of optimism.
Where to start on the looks? Eighty four creations in all shown at Venice Ship year. Being from the American South, of course will catch my attention. Throw in lavender, I will it a winner. The feathered top piece and mini leather cloaked dress was a stunner. Mixing in menswear with capes, oversized scarves and loose jackets, I guess there was a statement, yet, I missed it. Don’t get me wrong, the looks were superb, but i would rather have watched them in a mens show.
Life feels uncertain these days, however, “Creative is a natural extension of our enthusiasm.”
I saw Studio 189 on a luxury website. The Ghana brand eye catching patterns peaked my curiosity. The brand collaboration between actress Rosario Dawson and Adrima Eriah is a rising star in the fashion world with social justice credentials by supporting African production.
While going over looks from Tokyo Fashion Week I came across Fashion Designer Apocrypha. The color combinations and lace materials grabbed my attention. I sent him an email. Happily, Creative Head Reiji Harimoto responded to grant Black and Paper an interview.
What does the white represent in the collection?
It has several meanings. First, the white must be a standard color in the style of the historical background, imagined the situation in Europe during the regent era. Second, this collection is inspired by Charles Baudelaire’s collection of poems. It only has the information of black ink visually dropped on white paper. However, there are an infinite number of colors that can be imagined from that information. Black ink on paper is generally colored by subtractive mixing, but by reading this as letters, one can imagine a scene that is colored by additive mixing from a dark state with nothing in the head. In this collection, white is the imagination of color, which is the basis of subtractive mixing. His poems are colored based on the experience of the reader, who must have fallen in love once.
DANDY
Lace is more of a feminine material but you have incorporated the material in the menswear looks, why?
I think Baudelaire’s poetry is an objective and abstract depiction of Baudelaire’s own life, which always depends on women. I also wanted to express such a view of the world. It may be “feminine” by being worn by women. However, when men wear it, it has some kind of matured ”masculinity”. Maybe I wanted to get rid of the peculiarity. Also, during the time of George Brian Brummell’s life, which is the origin of “Dandy”, the way of life of Baudelaire, mechanical lace knitting machines were born in England. It is a technology that has survived the Luddite movement and continues to evolve to the present day. Isn’t that too wasteful to categorize by gender?
DANDY Lace is more of a feminine material but you have incorporated the material in the menswear looks, why?I think Baudelaire’s poetry is an objective and abstract depiction of Baudelaire’s own life, which always depends on women. I also wanted to express such a view of the world. It may be “feminine” by being worn by women. However, when men wear it, it has some kind of matured ”masculinity”. Maybe I wanted to get rid of the peculiarity. Also, during the time of George Brian Brummell’s life, which is the origin of “Dandy”, the way of life of Baudelaire, mechanical lace knitting machines were born in England. It is a technology that has survived the Luddite movement and continues to evolve to the present day. Isn’t that too wasteful to categorize by gender?
Gothic Chic
What is the Gothic link to the Spring 21 designs?
The answer depends on what you mean by “Gothic” in the question. If I dare to answer in the first place, if you see this collection and feel the Gothic element, it is a scene that you can see from the background of the times, as answered in the first question. If so, I think I have succeeded in expressing my most important “collection should be a literary art drawn with clothes”.
Lace
Are you making a gender statement about modern fashion?
In Japan, it seems that gender controversy is often going in the wrong direction. For example, regarding feminism, misandry ideas are strongly felt, and relatively aggressive claims are becoming mainstream in SNS and social media. Many are neither calm nor academic. I don’t think it is desirable to have a conflict with a principle. Also, there are many women with strong social status around me in the fashion industry. When I listen to their opinions, I think that the stronger those claims are, the more isolated they are, and the more the conflict of principles is just creating a groove. I think the same can be said from liberalism and other ideas. That’s why I wanted to create a categorized creation.
Oversized
Where would a guy wear your pieces?
The image of a man I imagine exists in a twilight space between morning and night at dawn, between daily and extraordinary. It’s just an imagination, and in reality, I’d like you to put it into your own identity and wear it as your own in every scene of everyday life. Because the person who wears it in every scene is the main character. If you’re in Hollywood and your main character is a profession, maybe it’s only when you’re on the red carpet.
Oversized with Color
I noticed the A/W collection was oversized with layers combined with streetwear style, what influenced this?
Reproduced relatively faithfully to the historical background. I create all the patterns myself, so every season there is a theme in pattern making as well as design. In the theme of the collection, we analyze the social situation and trends of the historical background and calculate back from the one at that time to create a pattern. You cannot create an atmosphere that feels “somehow” just by adding details to the existing body. This is also the theme of life, which is always in conflict between commercial design and authorship.
Stay Tuned for Before Tacky Podcast. Interviews with Fashion Professionals.
