Highlights from the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week. Over the next few days check back for more details. But meanwhile, sit back and enjoy the creative power of these looks.
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Tag: Fashion Design
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Chic Attention
Saint Laaurent Creative Anthony Vaccarello took the brand off the Paris Fashion Week schedule in April 2020, announcing it would create its own calendar. Two days ago the brand unveiled the Spring/Summer 21 collection. What can I say? Yes. I really loved the looks.
A throwback to the fun days of going out. A celebration of just being wonderful and fabulous without guilt. The attention getting halter neck and sleeveless silhouettes are for a woman not afraid of chic attention.
Vaccarello designed sixty six looks for going out to Studio 54 to meet Liza and Marisa Berenson.
Biker or exercise shorts styles were not my favourites, Chic Cheap.
Saint Laurent does not need my review. But, I had to give credit where credit is due. It is good to see a fashion megabrand still rooted it its historical sophistication.
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We Aren’t Writing “Eat Cake”
The Coronavirus marches on, the world hold its breath. The economic, social, and political flood gates have been open. What to expect next? Conversation after conversation, I draw the same conclusion, “say a pray”. There is no answer. Never in modern times has the world faced a challenge. “Uncertainty” is the daily trending word. Jobs are uncertain. Salaries have been slashed. In the US, millions face housing evictions. People do not feel safe.
Posting and writing about fashion feels a bit out of touch. Before March, “living the best life” was popular. Today, showing off aspirational things to buy, we are not saying “eat cake”. Just inspire readers. Plus, we love clothes.
The fashion industry struggles to survive the hard reality of buyers not shopping. I ask myself, Does anyone care about my fashion weeks commentary?
Looking over the financial numbers of the big brands, HORRIFIC! Sales are down by as much as 60%. Just know, you are not the only one forgoing buying expensive these days.
The lust for the latest looks in the middle of pandemic can seem a bit imbecilic. Posting a pair of pants, sweater, and top from a luxury house that costs $2,000. Questionable. It looks great for the home office. The latest Givenchy bag may not resonate with buyers in these times.
“If we like it we post it” is Black and Paper’s philosophy, but we had to address these crazy times. All of us are affected by Covid-19. The future is unclear. How long will this madness last? Personally, I stopped making weekly plans.
Unlike other blogs, sites, and magazines, we can type “empathy” on the keyboard.
A world that provides equality, certainty, and health is good for all.
Stay Safe. Stay Strong. See you soon. We are all in this together.
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Paris Fashion Week Couture Day 3
Highlights from Digital Week.
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Black Fashion Designers
Harpers Bazaar takes a look at Black Fashion Designers over the years.
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Fashion Mags Relevance
Before the lockdown many fashion magazines were under pressure. Are they relevant during an ongoing pandemic? As consumers face stark choices, the existence of many publications looks uncertain. Editions cut. Titles closed. Selling bling is out of style.
Check out our video on the matter.
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Ivanman Masks
Ivan of Ivanman 
The Pieces 
Mask Collection 
Mask on the Face 
Ivan at the sewing machine
The fashion world continues to respond to the world’s needs during this time of crisis.
Fashion Designer Ivan from fashion brand Ivanman decided to convert his Atelier to face mask production. Refashioned from industry materials, the pieces are colourful and expressive.
As the Coronavirus Lockdown exit strategies come in focus. Face masks maybe required accessories for leaving the home. This collection is designed and handmade in Berlin’s Kreuzberg district.
The Sewing Machine 
Materials 
Black Face Mask
I bought two face masks, one orange, the other pink.
For more information on Ivanman check his website.
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Louboutin Speaks
France 24 interviews master of shoe designer Christian Louboutin. A new exhibition on his designs opened in Paris.
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Fashion Week Conversations
The Fashion Week Tour has started, yet the fashion business becomes more precarious. This year the challenges are too big to bury our heads in the sand. While we sit on rows during shows, mingle with each other over a sparkling wine, the warning bells are ringing louder.
Stores Going Wrong
Macy’s, the American retail institution announced the closing of 125 stores, including a Bloomingdales. As a major mall anchor store this is bad news for brick and mortar traffic.
John Lewis, the British High Street staple faces a turbulent future. Sharon White, group head, warned store closures are on the table. The vulnerable department store is having trouble attracting in store clients.
The other Knightsbridge Department store, Harvey Nicols struggles with not so fabulous numbers.
Dallas based luxury chain Nieman Marcus carries over $5 billion in debt. I saw their buyers at a fashion week event. I wondered what were they buying. When a retail chain holds a liability of that size, the space for maneuvering is limited.
A Ripple
The Big Elephant in the Room, a new virus, Coronavirus. A little known city, at least from my point of view, of 11 million inhabitants, Wuhan, has become the epicenter of a possible pandemic. The second largest economy on the planet, closed until further notice. The ripple effects, or tidal wave, are being felt.
Every major fashion house and corporation have large investments in the Middle Kingdom. The short term outlook looks bleak. Chinese consumers count for 30% of luxury goods. Most stores have closed. Burberry reported an 80% sales drop. Is this an harbinger of things to come? We can expect profits shocks in the near future. Secondly, many luxury city destinations will take a hit. With all flights to China cut, retail outlets in Paris, London, and New York will see falling numbers from fewer tourists. More concerning, the light at the end of the tunnel is still out of sight.
Increased Unknown
Supply chains have come to a stand still. The interruption will possibly be felt by consumers in September. Adidas, Uniqlo, H&M, Gap, etc are heavily dependent on closed Chinese factories.
Fast Fashion junkies could see an increase in price. Production and logistics will have to be re-thought. The “Made in China” imprint has taken a hit. Brands must come-up new solutions to avoid future interruptions. These may involve moving factories to new locations, perhaps back to USA or Europe.
Yes, there will be some interesting conversations during these fashion weeks.
A Black and Paper interview with Singer Musican Ricky Rebel.
I like Ricky’s in your face spirit. He is not afraid to express or show how he feels while doing it with a smile and a show off my body attitude. After the attention his Red Carpet look got at the Grammys, we had to learn more. After a quick What’s App conversation, he enthusiastically agreed to answer a few questions.
Q&A
How did you and your stylist Elena Nazaroff come up with the concept?
I told Elena that I wanted something sexy and provocative like the glam era of David Bowie and Prince but that I wanted it to have a message. Andre Soriano, the designer and Elena Nazaroff ,my art director both sketched out their ideas for me. The look wasn’t finalized until I got into the room with Andre and actually started creating it. Andre wanted to capture the spirit of my music so we played my albums on full rotation as we made it. I think that’s why it came out so bold and rebellious. It was a beautiful, collaborative effort incorporating all of our innovative ideas into one.
Get NOTICED!
The Grammys Red Carpet is go big or go home, did you have this in mind?
Absolutely! I am a go big or go home performer. When I get on stage I give 100%. I view the GRAMMYs like a performance. The show started the second I stepped out on the carpet.
Was there an inspiration?
I was inspired by Prince’s performance at the MTV Awards. Back in the 80’s it was ok for men to show off, peacock, and be sexual. Right now, I feel like mainstream artists in the male category are not expressing themselves sexually enough because they’re afraid of being perceived as gay or losing their Christian/religious fan base. I am not afraid of losing fans because all of my fans know that I cannot be controlled. They love me for it. Rebel is going to do what’s best for Rebel. I am not owned by the radical left or the radical right. I dictate: how I dress, what I say, and how I think. Like my new song says, “I’m Not Your Preacher.”
Have you been surprised by the success of your look? The level of coverage?
Yes! Very Surprised! Last year, I wore the Trump suit to the GRAMMYs. That looks got a lot of press. It was 50/50 negative and positive coverage. People either loved it or hated it. This time around I felt like people were talking about the fashion aspect of my look and less about the politics which is exactly what I wanted. I am getting very bored with politics lately. This year the coverage of my look was local and internationally appealing. Intelligent people can see the humor in my look. I wanted to poke fun at the impeachment hearing which I felt had further divided this country.
Kiss and Make Up
Ultimately, I want the left and the right to kiss and make up and work together to get stuff done. I also wanted people to “impeach” my booty. “Impeach” means to call into question the integrity or validity of (a practice). I consider my body a work of art and my ass is 100% organic.
Fashion Loves Music
Why are so many musicians embracing fashion?
I think fashion is the best way to express how you feel without speaking. Believe it or not, there is a shy side to my personality. I use fashion to attract people to me. My boots, for instance, are a great way to start a conversation with a complete stranger. I use fashion to connect with people. I believe that’s the goal of every artist.
What are your music plans?
We are developing a Ricky Rebel Vegas Show! It’s going to incorporate my music and I am going to tell the story of an “American Rebel.” That will be the name of my next album. I will more than likely be releasing it this summer. The record is being mixed and mastered and co-produced as we speak by Gary Miller, who has worked with David Bowie, Cher, and Kylie Minogue. Gary is determined to get me on the GRAMMYs stage one day performing and/or winning a GRAMMY. It’s amazing what you can do when people believe in you 100%. In the meantime, I am loving my journey and enjoying every second. My life is an adventure.
Certainly, his adventure will continue. We thank Ricky for the interview.
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