Part one of our coverage from January’s 2020 Milan Fashion Week Men. Alexander McQueen and other London Fashion brands were on hand for the week. Overall, I would say the week came across as calm, no major shifts this season on the menswear front. I would not say a lose of direction, but a pause to find a direction. That is a good thing.
Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture is over. This season, a strange feeling hovered over the French Capital. Numerous strikes have paralysedFrance. President Macron’s reform policies have not gone down well the citizens. I am not familiar with Gaul politics and economy but Paris was a city filled with tension. How many strikes occur in Paris on a weekly basis? I knew this would be a different fashion week when my flight was delayed. When I arrived at Charles De Gaulle airport, the first announcement I heard, “Due to industrial action,,,”. “Welcome!”
Secondly, Paris was really cold and gray. One day the temperature hit -4. Not pleasant weather for running around from show to show or standing outside for an extra 30 or 40 minutes. This fashion week events never start on time.
All shows had extra security on hand. The entire city has been on alert for threats.
Is This Worth It?
My problem with fashion has been the democratization has been haphazard at best. I am beginning to wonder if it is worth attending a fashion week. Standing in lines, Fighting crowds, the expenses, the ROI seems to diminish. Has Instagram and social media has been a blessing or a curse? A lot of invites, a lot of attendees, but why? The agencies cannot keep up with the requests. The crowd control situation is the same as a South American Bus Station. However, strangely, many shows were not at full capacity.
At one show, I saw how exasperated the staff became. All of the sudden there are so many stylists, photographers, and influencers. HUH? I asked a few to show me their work. An Instagram Selfie is now an editorial. Then, there are those who borrow or buy clothes (later returned) for a fashion show appearance. The people who really work during fashion week cannot dress as if their are attending the Red Carpet Met Gala. I can spot them a front row seat away.
Thankfully, I do not have the need to be seen at every fashion show. If I sit five rows back, I ususally say, “send me the pictures”.
GoodBye
The big news from Paris Haute Couture Week, sadly, the last show for Jean Paul Gaultier. Sexual, imaginative, and ahead of the gender curve designer bowed out after 50 years on the scene. Gaultier stopped making Ready to Wear designs years ago, now, no more Couture looks. The star studded show was packed with his friends walking the runway. His classic breton stripes interpretations and ethnic chic influences, his frivolity will be missed.
I am still going over the looks from Haute Couture Week, please stay tuned. A lot of reviews coming soon.
An emerging designer, Tiziano is making strides in the Milan scene. Combining sustainable materials into wearable pieces he proves eco -fashion can be interesting as well as vibrant. Oversized pieces with long lengths was the running theme. Not bad, I will keep an eye on him.
The world has now become social media politically conscience. It is hyper connected movement of righteousness mixed with moral superiority. If iOS shuts down, heaven help the world.
Predicting what Millennials and Social Media want is hard. They post one thing to be a part of a movement but purchase the opposite in stores.
Sustainability clothing will not come cheap. Yes, we agree the world needs to change course but putting wallet where the values seems hard to reconcile, especially for a generation raised on disposable fashion. Can they change their consumption habits. Are Millennials prepared to give up the 1.99 t-shirts? Will they buy better and less? No more weekly shopping trips to main street stores for weekend looks only to end up in garbage heaps 1 week later.
The contridictions are glaring. Based on real retail sales, the picture is not so social media warrior clear. When given the choice of quality over quantity. Quantity wins. New shopping habits are required to save the world. Not just feel good speeches.
Look to the Past
Fashion pieces in the past were sustainable. Pieces made of better quality. Secondly, styles changes from season to season were less radical. Eternal is no longer a design plan. This is not compatible in a world perpetually chasing followers and likes. Selfies require a constant source of clothing.
The Fashion Industry has taken up the mantle. Recently announcing sustainability, Earth and eco-friendly are now a part of corporate manifestos. Doing more to help the environment. Commendable. But what does it mean? New production techniques, an incentive for less customer consumption, longer product life cycle.
Yes, people are more environmental aware. Voices chanting. Marches across the globe. But the real change comes from the dollar or euro. Where the intentions go, the wallet should follow.
Chanel unveiled its first post Lagerfeld collection. Virginie Viard takes control of the storied French brand. The setting at the Grand Palais turned into a romantic train station fit the mood. The looks were soft and feminine.
Ms. Viard has the full backing of brand head Bruno Pavlovsky. The company posted profits of $2.7.
The Antonio Marras Show at Milan Fashion Week combined a catwalk with live performance theatre. I was not sure what I was suppose to watch, the models, the singers, the stage shows. The unique setting in an antique space made the event all the more theatrical.
A Kiss
The Performers
The Setting
The collection mixed dark romanticism with a 1930’s feel of frivolity.
Milan Fashion Week is over. I love the Italian city with all of its creative instincts. Designers are always enthusiastic ready to speak about their latest works. I had detailed collection tours.
Fall 2019 will be about the bling. At least that is the word from ateliers in Italy. In other words, social media has affected fashion in many ways. Instant recognition means getting noticed. The right image on Instagram attracts free likes, comments, and shares. Fashion brands have leapt onto the instant fame generation.
Inspiration mixed with heavy doses of commercialization took over. These days fashion is shared not personal. Style liberation has been replaced by forced digital integration. Milanese designers continue to evolve this year. Incorporating social media friendly colors, shapes, and rebranding logos
Many fashion looks upcoming looks are based on the modern “It Girl”. A person who cannot live without a smartphone. Constantly connected with many followers. An existence centered on posting.
Not an insult
I viewed lovely collections not influenced by social media. Sophisticated, the tag inside, sadly, not sure if these brands would would be popular in Fall 2019. After a chat with one public relations representative, we agreed. Can reconciling elegance in the digital world work? On one hand, I want to say “Yes”. After I got back to my hotel, I looked over the feeds of a few “fashion influencers”. I wondered. Ostentatious has become a compliment.
Milan has stepped out of the shadow of Paris. Tailoring looks with an appreciation of the physical form, fitted silhouettes.
I attended many shoes and bags presentations, many brands are extending lines to accessories. A business strategy to counter Michael Kors recent acquisition of shoemaker Jimmy Choo. A country with a history of leather design and production, it was not surprising. Leather shoes prevailed. Some incorporated exotic skin and diamond materials.
Covering Milan Fashion 2019, we are thrilled to crown the city the “Fabulous Shoe Capital of the World”. Designers have upped the ante. A woman does not merely wear these creations, she has to live it. If footwear is your religion, make a pilgrimage. Stay tuned for more coverage.
