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Fashion

New York Fashion Week REVIEWS

New York Fashion Week kicks off the season. “Diversity” is the key word but at times it feels like tokenism. The same as saying, “I have  a friend who is,,,,” and I invited him or her to the party. “Pat me on the back for showing how forward thinking I am. In the 21st century, welcome to 1970, please cue a cynical remake of TV show “Room 222”.  If you have to shine a bright spotlight on “diversity” it means something is entrenched in the system. The spot light is there to deflect criticism. In the Age of President Trump, a born and raised New Yorker, it feels like everyone wants to brandish their liberal credentials. Fashion Week is like a peacock spreading it feathers during mating season, showing off plumage. Look at us, embracing difference. It is welcome message of sorts but there needs to be substance, not media packaging.  What happens after Trump leaves office? 

Collections

Collections from New York Fashion Week for Spring 2019.

As a whole NY is about America, athletic, the physical.

Rodarte showed frivolity, frills, in a dark wonderland. I liked it. A welcome return to NYFW.

Prabal Gurung was color and give more color until sunglasses are needed, optimisitismis the heart of the collection.

Escada has returned to the fashion after many years away, some looks were better than the collection as a whole. It is still a brand in search itself, the looks reflected this.

Boss is in the post Jason Wu period, so the brand loosened up a lot. Did I like the looks? Some. Not all. At times it felt more Italian than German, then American, trying to appeal to many.

Proenza Schouler returns to NYFW after being in Paris. Whatever influenced them in Paris, it was not the elegance of the city. So many rigid looks bordering on uniforms. Thumbs Down!

Tibi went for the soft and gentle but genderless clothing was front and centered, but the collection is wearable.

Anna Sui shinning visual exotics catches the eye with so many prints, headpieces, kaftans.

Carolina Herrara’s new creative director Wes Gordon has big shoes to fill. Did he succeed? Almost There are many vibrant prints his collection but at times I felt overwhelmed. Gordon needs to learn how to pull back a bit, too much is too much!

Suzanne Rae went with florescent colors, fun. I was waiting for Molly Ringwald.

Badgley Mischka had red carpet stars in their eyes, preparing for close ups with Alice in Wonderland being the theme of the collection.

Oscar de la Renta proves why the label is still a standard bearer for NYFW. Simply put, making elegance look easy moving from day to evening from yellow to black, fringes to frills.

Libertine. One Jeremy Scott is enough but I admit I liked some looks, especially #2, jacket and leggings.

As a fan of 3.1 Phillip Lim I can be honest. I liked the collection. HA! Touches of the 70’s suggested a bit of liberation or a romantic adventure. The color scheme was neutral, soft whites, grays, and silvers.

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Fashion

Elegance is the Key!

A Black and Paper exclusive interview with shoe designer Walter De Silva.

When a man has a love of feminine elegance matched with a skill of design of course he becomes a shoe designer.

A background in car design, how did you move into shoe design?

Honestly, I consider myself a designer, not a fashion designer. I am a car designer, industrial designer. My approach is to design the heel, design the line, the proportions.I like cars and shoes.

I do not follow fashion, I follow my passion, my dream.

Why did you decide to design women’s shoes?

Two reasons: One, historicalreason, my grandfather had a shoe factory in Milan between the wars. In my family everyone spoke about shoes. Secondly, I like night shoes. They have sex appeal on women who wear them.

Should a woman wear a all everyday?

NO! NO! As I said, my shoes are for the night, after 7, starting with a cocktail, then dinner, a drink before going to a disco.

What is your shoe philosophy?

©WALTER DE SILVA SHOES – WDS LUMIERE 2017/2018

Elegance! Proportion! Sex Appeal! From the elegance and proportion side, I design shoes for them to look like one element from heel to toe, seamless. From the sex appeal side, A woman needs a strong personality to wear my shoes because she is sending out a message.

Is there one famous woman who you would like to wear your shoes?

Sharon Stone.

Why Sharon Stone?

As I said, Personality! Her biography is one of a lady with a lot of experience. Super elegant! Cool! Honest Eyes! I do not know her but she is the type of person for my shoes.

©Walter De Silva Shoes 2017/2018

You do not follow fashion, can you explain?

I like fashion. I admire many fashion designers. I cannot say I am a fashion designer. I have a different background. I am a product designer stimulated by different interests.

Are you one of those designers who like to perpetuallycreate?

Creating is is the soul and heart. There is a lot of preparation involved in designing. You have to know where you come from if you want to have a visual reference. Today design is about aestheticas well as problem solving. Once I had a client who wanted to have lights for a certain type of ambient. This project not only involvedtechnologybut transforming it into something special for everyone.The company head was very proud of the final work.

What is the design process?

I think about what would a lady like to wear. My approach is from an architecture point of view. Design is a discipline, architecture is one part. Shoe design is a micro discipline.Functionality is very important.

©Walter De Silva Shoes 2017/2018

When was the label founded?

I started Walter De Silva Shoes 2015, presenting one collection per year. My shoes are Created and Made in Italy. Even the boxes are Italian. This means a lot. I have to say “Thank You” to Barney’s New York for launching me in the States. Step by Step more retailers have come onboard from all over the world.

What are the brand’s future plans?

This is our, his wife, is a part of the company, Emmanuelle, is cofounder and CEO, last kid! We have 5. (Laughing) I always introduce new designs in Milan and Paris during Fashion Weeks.

I will maintain 15 styles a year with changes in colors and materials, always for the evening.  Perhaps I will add ankle boots in the future.

Check out the video: http://www.blackandpaper.com/2018/06/25/desilva-elegance/

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Fashion

Final Walk from Agnes B.

[KGVID]http://www.blackandpaper.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Agnes-B-.mp4[/KGVID]

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Fashion

Agnes B. Homme

From Paris Fashion Week Men designer Agnes B. displays rural French heritage on her sleeve.  The designer is inspired by rural looks; worker overalls and shirts, all down to Earth. I call her style “Subdued French” yet always wearable.

Images by Brice Hardelin 

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Fashion

Tortured Genius

Looking for movie not involving a superhero this summer, a new documentary film on the life of a fashion genius,  Alexander McQueen is being released in cinemas this summer. As a designer McQueen’s reign was brief but influential.  His daring romantic gothic style sent the fashion world in new directions.

Check local listings for show times.

 

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Fashion

La Dolce ITALIANA!

If you happen to be in Milan this week make sure you have a chance to see a monumental fashion collection titled Italiana at the impressive Palazzo Real Milano, located in the centre of the city beside Duomo. The exhibition spans the the story of fashion the city from 1971 to 2001 with looks drawing from the cities wealth of designers. Highly impressive and inspiring for anyone who loves fashion.   There is no doubt Milan deserves its place as the CHIC CAPITAL of world. I had goose bumps walking from room to room.

This is the last week, ending on the 6th of May. HURRY!

Images powered by Canon Camera 

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Fashion

London Fashion Week Men’s

Stay tuned for more features from our coverage of London Fashion Week Men’s including interviews and reviews.

Powered by Canon EOS M6

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Fashion Interview

Interview with Cristiano Burani

Cristiano Burani is a Milan based designer of head of his eponymous label. Known for his use of vibrant colors in his collections, Burani studied fashion design at New York City’s Parson.  He has worked for Versace Jeans Couture before moving to Blumarine.  His first collection debuted in 2010 in Milan with the support of Vogue Italia and Camera Nazionale della Mode Italiana.

Cristiano gave an interview to Black and Paper after his Spring/Summer 2017 collection fashion show.

cristiano-burani_ful_w_s17_mi_037

Your collection went from dazzling stripes to a sophisticated suit, (Look 34) why?cristiano-burani_ful_w_s17_mi_034My fashion show is about the expression of the same woman in different times of her life, from day wear to holiday to evening cocktail. I like the idea of being eclectic and switching from casual to “elegant”, always with cool attitude.

What inspired the collection’s theme?

The Collection is inspired by my love and sensibility for colors. There is a combination of sporty details together with feminine shapes layered with a lot of technology in the new pleated and over printed fabrics.

When a woman wears a look from this collection does she want to get noticed?

A woman wearing my collection doesn’t necessarily want to be noticed. She has consciously decided to wear unique and exclusive pieces entirely made in Italy, with a semi couture process.  That is what makes all the looks so special.ter

What was the material used for looks 11 to 15? 

The material used for the two plain outfits is viscose chenille. I like the idea of using leisure fabrics for a suit which are between smoking jacket looks and pajamas but with a sporty reference.

The oversize belts are a great detail, how did you develop those?

The oversized belts are another sport reference. They are entirely stitched by hands using grosgrain ribbons of various different widths.

cristiano-burani_ful_w_s17_mi_023

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Fashion

Agnes B. at Paris Fashion Week

Agnes B. stayed true to form with her Spring 2017.  The looks had a coquette feeling of a lady taking a leisurely walk along the Seine River.  Leather skirts with soft sweaters, sheer, and pajama looks all combined for a soft retro influenced collection.

Highlights:

 

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Fashion

Milan Fashion Week Part 5

Does Milan have a signature style?  If making the best clothing is a signature style, then I would say, “YES”!

Alitalia’s new uniforms

 

Black Beauties from Marie Claire