Author Colin McDowell cynical take on the fashion world in his 1994 book The Designer Scam coined a phrase “Display Artists” for those who show up at events to parade around, get pictures eager being a part of the “best” crowd. Today they are called “Influencers”, people who influence others posting on social media. Others display their recent buys in shopping hauls. How can we not notice the neatly lined bags behind content creators on YouTube. These video Display Artists must show the world they can afford the big brands.
Black and Paper participated in the London editorial fashion production with designer Alan Scott featuring his eponymous label featured in “Cutting Edge” issue of High Volt Magazine. Actress, model Eugenia Kuzmina and photographer filmmaker Darren Vukasinovic captured the atmosphere of the dockside in the capital city.
Yoshiki had a presentation at Paris Fashion Week. The musician showed his 2024 collection of kimonos and other pieces. What does the musician think of fashion?
The second part of the Before Tacky Podcast with Borsalino Head of Styling Jacopo Politi and Actress Eugenia Kuzmina talk about the Headwear design and what goes into making an amazing hat.
It had to happen sooner or later. Trying to be relevant at the time being edgy, the silk threads will hit the fan. Balenciaga, the French Fashion House learned the hard way. The Bondage Teddy Doll Toddler campaign crashed the same as if a German Leader singing Beyonce at a karaoke bar. The fall out continues, at present everyone is “reevaluating” their relationship with the brand.
Looking over the images, I wonder what happened to the filters. Certainly one person at the multi billion luxury clothier could see a yellow light. Yet, for some reason I have a feeling they coward, preferring to be another deaf person in the room of blind people. You have to understand, the fashion business is allergic to the truth. One contrary word to group think, banishment!
Gemma Gvasalia has a done a seven year job of transitioning the fabled label to the top of fashion league. Making collections tailored fit for Instagram. Getting big names not only sitting front row but also in the runway shows. Coveted $750 worn High Tops trainers fly out the store. The $1,300 mini bag has become a must have. Any wonder why no one challenges his opinions? Yet, even the Georgian born designer learned, “live by the Gram, you can die on the Gram.”
Eating a slice of Humble Pie never killed anyone. The statements coming from Balenciaga have been the same as a screeching bird with two broken wings. First, scrubbing its Instagram account with the exception of a statement posting. Then saying the production company was responsible for the content. Launching a million dollar lawsuit against the creative team. Throwing a borrowed bucket of gasoline on a fire does not extinguish the flame. Owe up the mistake. In a few days the world will move on to the next social media outrage.
As far as I am concerned, “yes” the pictures are in poor taste. But then again, I would never pay $750 for a pair of worn High Tops.
I need a crystal ball to keep up with the creative head resignations, musical chairs.
The shocking news of designer Alessandro Michele departing Gucci reverberated through the fashion industry. Since 2015 the Rome born head was front of the center of the brand. Michele has been the Crown Prince of Modern Bling with collections primed for social media postings. Twenty years ago the Rome born creative director joined the house in the accessory wear division.
It’s hard to believe Gucci parent company Kering letting one of the top moneymakers and high profiled talent who seemed to flourish in the corporate clothing world. Only a few months ago Alessandro staged a star studded runway show on Hollywood Blvd. As with many great designers, Michele understood the theatrics of the business, walking up the stairs of the Met Gala or twins walking down the runway, Gucci was always in papers, magazines and online. Or being tied to the hip to superstars Harry Styles and Jared Leto, the Florence based house seemed to define the moment. But no all was well. In recent hours reports filtered out sales were down in key markets. Is the world tiring of the over the top brocades and ostentatious pieces?
It’s all about the Social
With 49.6 million Instagram followers, Gucci is about sending the style signal of wearing your wealth on your back. Showing off is good. After all part of their buyer fun is the over the top appeal. Advertising to the world, a “Look at Me” attitude. Gender is a relic of the past.
With the exit before the upcoming fashion weeks in January and February, a major fashion house is under the microscope. Who will be the replacement? As a fashion professional, the announcement came as a shock. Can a successor continue on the same path? Doubts are singing in my head. As the world enters an economic downturn, will Gucci tone down? It is hard to imagine.
We have to wait and see what happens at Gucci. CEO Marco Bizzarri will have to move fast concerning a replacement announcement.
Certainly Alessandro Michele’s career is not over, just moving onward.
The Big Fashion Week Season closed. My quick first impressions are optimism, moving forward form the past years. As the world moves from uncertainty to uncertainty fashion labels turned vivacious for Spring 2023. As usual the start of the calendar kicked off in New York before moving to London, Milan and finally Paris. Instead of absorbing headlines, runway shows were delightful.
The movement towards streetwear slowed, creative directors stayed in their lanes this season, not retrenching, but more of a comfort zone design philosophy.
I had some favorites of course. Lanvin’s Bruno Sialelli gave a tasteful yet compelling harmonization to the French house.
In Milan, the old line brand Bally decided on a rebirth. Rhuigi Villaseñor, known for his streetwear label Rhude, gave the Swiss clothing maker a shot in the arm with a mixture of adventure and classic pieces.
Stay tuned for Before Tacky podcast on fashion interviews, news and reviews.
Famed Japanese designer Issey Miyake passed today. Famed for his distinctive pleats, the fashion head created a house around flowing designs and loose pieces.
From the Milan Fashion Week, Cristiano Burani gave me a personal fashion tour of his latest collection during his presentation. What struck me, the technical materials. The distinctive pieces made use of specialised fabrics, while remaining fitted for the figure.
I met fashion designer Chet Lo in Milan at the White Trade show. His futuristic eye catching textile designs got my immediate attention. In a white chromatic room, how could the polychromas pastels and fuchsia pieces not grab attention? I chatted with Chet about his unique looks.
The London based designer is now involved in a copycat scandal with a global fashion chain. H&M has been accused of intellectual property impropriety. Diet Prada and Daily Mail reported the Swedish chain’s new “conscious” Innovation Cherish Waste Collection is an imitation of the Asian American’s pieces. The similarities are quite noticeable. What should we think? After looking over the pieces from both sides, well,,, the finger pointers have a valid argument. H&M denies the plagiarism allegations.
I have a feeling this fashion drama is not over.
Chet Lo collection at White in Milan during Fashion Week.
