The countdown has started. Milan Fashion begins on the 20th. See all the latest styles from the Italian City of Chic. We cannot wait.
Tag: fashion designer
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The Classy Chic
Cinzia Rocco is not one of those flashy brands but instead keeps it classy but chic. During Milan Fashion A few season I discovered the brand at Milan Fashion Week. These looks are available in stores now.
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Paris Fashion Week Couture Tom Verlaine
Stay tuned for complete coverage of the Tom Verlaine Couture show from Paris.
I am not familiar with Ali Le Kal. Stay tuned for more coverage.
Final walk from a decadent show at Paris Fashion Week Couture. Fashion House On Aura Tout Vu celebrated 20 years on the couture scene. The show was part theatre mixed with his fashion.
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Menswear from PFWM
France 24 reports from Paris Fashion Week Men.
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London Fashion Week Men
My London Fashion Week Men impressions are so far so good. As always, even in middle of the Brexit Crisis, the city finds its creative spirit, edgy, off kilter. The weakest of the Menswear week, London has proven to be one of residence. Enlisting big names, Beckham, Dandy, and a Prince, to give lift into the big leagues with Milan and New York. As a person who is inspired by menswear I always think of London as experiementation, risk. That what makes it a great city compared to the others.
A quick review of the highlights
Kent & Curwen co-owner David Beckham should be proud. The Saville label founded in 1926 produced ties for veterans. Creative Director Daniel Kearns moved effortlessly from military to sporty. The blend of colors and prints were on this side of classic by very imaginative.
Iceberg decided to go all over with knitwear and looks based on skiwear. Prints and more prints radiating sharp colors.
Craig Green has consumed too many energy drinks. Deconstruct, over the top florescent colors that looked like packing material. The headpieces seemed a bit oriental or from a religious ceremony.
Per Gotesson has an interesting take on the modern man. Just cut it at an angle. I liked pieces more than looks from the new designer. The subdued color palette was overset by bold sexual themes.
Daniel W. Fletcher proved wearable is not dull and gender is still in style. Denim, suits, and outerwear all come together for 22 looks that feel modern.
Raeburn interwove military with utility looks and material. The 10thyear of the brand means something is going right. Not high fashion but street fashion. Masculine forms, but comfortable in the unisex category for the gender free crowd, I understand the success.
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Raf is gone from CK
It should have been easy,
Where did it go wrong?
When I read Raf Simons exited as head of Calvin Klein I was not shocked. After reviewing his first collection for the NY minimal brand. I felt relieved. Do not get me wrong. I am a fan of Mr. Simons. His looks for Jil Sander as well for his eponymous label were inspiring. The chic linear aesthetics are still personal favorites. However, after a brief stint at Dior, a mismatch in my opinion, Simons seemed a perfect fit to head Calvin Klein. Both designer and label embraced minimalism, clean lines. Sadly, the seemingly perfect couple never really bonded. Only after 2 years, 4 collections, the gig ended after broken promises lost in traslations cultural problems.
As I said, after seeing the first runway show, I asked myself, did Raf find inspiration in second hand stores of New York City? With a back log of creative references since the brand’s founding in 1968, there was a wealth of material to draw upon. “What comes between me and my Calvin’s? Absolutely nothing”, was the immortal slogan from Brook Shields. The 90’s were about Mark Wahlberg in his undies. CK has always been a brand about overt sexuality. Strangely, the Team Simons looks felt like a parody on the heritage, lacking elegance, a trashy commentary on modern style.
But,
The rebranding with “Calvin Klein” adorned on every piece of clothing in an attempt for the streetwear market felt out of place. As the designs reached out for one type of buyer, others left. Not even a Kardashian campaign helped, sales dropped. Having invested millions, parent company PVH experienced a conniption seeing sales fall for a once iconic brand. Emanuel ‘s experiment of a cerebral designer, together with an iconic American Ready to Wear House became a failed project.
I am sympathetic to Raf. He is the latest creative head to exit a major house. Designers are burning out at a faster pace than in the past. The bottom line focus raises questions concerning creative workloads. Are the pressures of the modern fashion business too much? Desiging 6 collections in one year, over seeing accessories, press conferences, could tax the most energetic person.
Raf Simons will bounce back. The exceptionally talented always do.
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Milan MFWM
What will be the latest trends from Milan Fashion Week Men? We cannot wait to see.
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Fashion Africa
From France 24
African Fashion Week continues to move from strength to strength. This year from Dakar the best of the best from the continent showcase their latest collections.