We only briefly saw the Fauto Puglisi Spring Collection. Based on the nightlife of Miami where anything goes, the looks are loose, the colors and prints are conspicuous. Consisting of t-shirts, shorts, and jerseys the garments are overtly masculine in a low brow manly, manly, man Jersey way.
We could not resist taking pictures of other items from his collection at the Gio Moretti store in Milan.
Images powered by Canon EOS M6
A Black and Paper Exclusive
London based Chinese fashion designer interprets feminine looks using progressive materials paired with constructive elements of design.
A graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, Xu founded his label in 2014, achieving success with his collection available in many prestigious stores in Asia and Europe.
The young designer showed his Fall 2017 collection in Milan during Fashion Week at the Teatro Armani with support of Mr. Armani and National Chamber of Italian Fashion. Cutting edge denim, braids, and the color blue were the central themes along with leather. The collection showed confidence from a young designer willing to go in his own fashion direction.
As a new designer, how are you planning to attract loyal clients?
My brand is very much based on longevity. We are taking time to really assess who the Xu Zhi woman is, and offer collections that will enhance both their lives and current wardrobes. Also, in continuing developing the house style, we hope to familiarize yet still excite our customer season after season.
You use high quality materials, where are they sourced?
It is dependent on the season, but largely from Italy and France.
How did you feel about being supported by Armani and Camera Moda at Fashion Week?
Incredibly humbling and hugely exciting that, as a young designer, our hard work has been acknowledged.
What inspired the deconstructed looks?
It originally came from the idea of trying to imitate brushstrokes with fabric, and how that could be achieved in different ways. This resulted in the deconstructed element you refer to.
What type of woman would wear look #5?
The Xu Zhi woman. Decisive, commanding and assertive – yet approachable, humble and refined.
Where will your brand be in the future?
I think we’re growing organically – it’s difficult to say where it will be, but I’d like it to be in the closets of the woman we’re trying hard to speak to with our pieces.
Xu Zhi collection can be found in Dover Street Market, London, Lane Crawford Hong Kong, and Opening Ceremony, Tokyo.
Black and Paper coverage in Milan. Quick images and write ups from Milan Fashion Week. Stay tuned for more coverage.
Casadei-Mr. Casadi was tamed this season in a way but I liked the thigh high boots.
Ultrachic theme this season was Back to School with humor.
Celebrating it’s 90th anniversary, Furla stayed with strength by launching variations of the MyBag, a playful collection handbags with different flaps.
Vladimiro Gioia’s collection of furs might not be for the politically correct but his other looks of organza and silk hit the spot.
Fratelli Rossetti decided on personality this season for the new collection. I am excited to see the brand break out of the comfort zone. It is a masculine collection yet still classic.
A label making strides with its own definition of femininity veering towards the masculine side. I was pleased with this collection.
Roberto Cavalli decadence rock&roll looks are for the adventurous, the label never disappoints.
London Fashion Week Men has kicked off to a start that can be described as “creative.” Of the all fashion centers, the British capital has always been a step in the direction of quirky. Designers are more inclined to step out of comfort zones. The availability of fresh creative talent in the city means there is a futile ground for something fresh or even strange in the design department.
Black and Paper Highlights:
Katie Eary’s “Night at the Playboy Mansion” Pajama Llooks are perfect for the man who wants a bit of Noel Coward sophistication.
Craig Green’s flowing colors and carpets seemed like uniforms from Star Trek.
Top Man’s collection is not handsome but fun.
Christopher Shannon’s collection of melded pieces is ready for the night at an urban club.
Casely Hayford are using on long geometric shapes
Matther Miller’s collection focused on black and more black for the intimidating man of town.
Oliver Spencer proves you can have understated wear that stands out in a crowd.
Cottweiler looks are for guys you date but do not take home to mother until get to rally know him.
J.W. Anderson’s heavy looks of patches and knitwear are down to earth if not folksy
Agnes B. stayed true to form with her Spring 2017. The looks had a coquette feeling of a lady taking a leisurely walk along the Seine River. Leather skirts with soft sweaters, sheer, and pajama looks all combined for a soft retro influenced collection.
Highlights:
Black and Paper interview with THE ONE Grand Show Star, Valerie Inertie.
Hailing from Quebec, Canada, Valerie is a combination of physical grace and athleticism with a passion for physical expression she has developed during her long career of dance and acrobatics. She has lived in Berlin since 2013. An admitted adrenaline sports enthusiast, she has been doing acrobatics since the age of 3. As a Cyr Wheel Artist she has performed around the world to critical acclaim.
How did you become involve in THE ONE Grand Show?
I was in the Christmas Show 3 years ago at the Friedrichstadt-Palast. I had a good connection with the director, who said I had a strong presence, and he asked me if I would like to get involve in a show he was planning which was The One Grand Show.
How do you feel about wearing the Gaultier Costumes?
They are fantastic! It is an honor to wear them. As an acrobat the challenge is the movements in the costumes. Gaultier asked for my input. We developed a hook-clip quick released.
This is a very physical show for you.
Yes. I had a lot of input for my role, to make it work for me. I have choreography, and aerial performances. I fly on a high speed wench, then an aerial hoop, and the Cyr Wheel. As a dancer the period of movement is longer but as an acrobat the period of movement is shorter but more intense.
The physical staging is woven into the storyline.
Absolutely! There is an artistic link between everything; the dancing and acrobatics. They are a part of narrative not a side story.
What are your future plans?
For 2019, after the run of THE ONE Grand Show I am developing a Cyr Wheel Act then in Switzerland I will take part in the 100th anniversary of circus.
Valerie Inertie can be seen in THE ONE Grand Show in Berlin at the Friedrichstadt-Palast.
Images by Vladimir Sichov.
During Seek Fashion Trade Show in Berlin I met the always stylish T-Michael. I managed to get him to answer a question menswear and dressing.
Please forgive the background noise.
Dimitri unveiled a well-received collection for the Spring Season 2017 with looks inspired by his home country of Greece.
We captured the excitement on video. Putting the show together at the tent, all the fun and last minute touches involved making sure all is on cue before hitting the runway.
Behind the glamour of a runway show there are teams of artists hard at work putting it all together.
We managed to get behind the scenes at Dimitri Show during Fashion Week in Berlin. Seeing models, hair stylists, make up artists, dressers, and stylists at work making it all happen before the ladies hit the runway.
Make up team from Maybelline
Hair team from L’Oreal Professional
Model and Hair team. I loved her calm expression.
Getting the finer touches around the eyes.
An overall view of the teams at work.
A model having foundation applied.
To see more behind the scenes footage from the show go to Pinterest.