Categories
Fashion

Fabulously Applying the Same Remedy.

In the “Here We Go Again” category, another month, another headline on layoffs at the big publishing houses.  It is hard to imagine who will be left to write about a perfume review. It is hard to see just how many more staff members can be fired from a company becomes dysfunctional. Applying the same not working remedy for the same long term illness has not worked.

First, Hearst, the Eight Avenue headquartered publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire and Cosmopolitan announced 200 employees would be fired.  President Debi Chirichella gave the usual excuse of allocating resources to support goals, etc. The reality is the company may employ A.I. to produce articles.  Hearst’s flagship title Harper’s Bazaar will publish one less print edition next year, from ten to nine.

The second announcement of fashion magazines meltdown came from Conde Nast.  The collection of prestigious magazines released underperforming financial figures.  On Thursday December 5th, GQ heads rolled along with other workers.  Last year Group leader Roger Lynch fired 5% of the staff, decamped to cheaper digs in London and New York City while trying to pivot to digital realms. Claiming ad buys are down, costs are up, the Vogue owner is seeking new bottom line cuts.

Plush Meltdown

As this plush content calamity happens, the great survivor Anna Wintour continues with the title Chief Content Officer over several titles. The simple question is, why? The strategy of jettisoned international editors has failed, one template for all local versions has failed.  Editors are now working across multiple titles and platforms.  What made Vogue magazines unique has become as exciting as eating at a global fast-food chain. Conde Nast became a sinking brand extension of Wintour.

Hearst and Conde Nast are going to have to search for new ideas as 2025 looks to be difficult year with conflicts, consumer pressures and business cutbacks. Will the once uncontested style gate keepers be relevant? Dinosaurs existed until one day they did not.

Categories
Fashion Feature

Hadid,,Again and Again

According to the fashion magazines, the word is always curious to see the latest midriff worn by a Hadid. Want to learn about Hailey Bieber’s skin care routine, for the 120th time, check out the latest issue of,,,. There was a time when publications were sources of inspiration and knowledge, along with the glossy images.

As readers moved from pages to digital platforms, magazines have lost their place at the head of the cultural table, no longer having a manicured nail on the pulse of style. Influencers, YouTube commentators and TikTok celebrities set the agenda in the never-ending world of original content. Vogue, along with its rivals, feel stale.

Forgive me for being lost, why do the fashion magazines continue to reproduce the same stories on social media and on the newsstand? Pivoting got lost in translation perhaps because of press relations, contacts, sticking to what they know could be the answer, despite dwindling sales and relevance.

The world is facing a war, inflation crisis, climate change and political uncertainty to name a few, yet, the fashion magazines seem lost in a maze of recycled satiny. Can anyone save these peaches and cream pages? Do they want to be saved is becoming the question. Fewer and fewer readers in the world will always be updated on Hadid’s six-pack.

Categories
Fashion podcast

What’s Going On?

For out Before Tacky podcast we discuss what is happening in the fashion world. Reflecting these times of certainty brands, magazines and buyers chug along trying to figure out a right path.

Lyn and Taiwo join the discussion from Milan and London.

Categories
Fashion

Same Story, Different Day

 Anna Wintour hit the headlines of the New York Times yet once again for the wrong reasons. The proclaimed most powerful woman in the fashion world has been under heavy criticism for Vogue’s lack of diversity.  Black voices sidelined at the publication were the norm.  Fashion magazines were or less country clubs for the elite.   Slim white women from well to do families had the best positions. A place were rich wives “worked” telling other rich wives what to wear for the season.  I attended a public state school, a person of color. I knew Vogue as a place  closed to my type.  

Read my fast response to the NYT 

The question raised again: Should Anna Leave?

Categories
Fashion

Fabulous Denial Syndrome

Being Fabulous! Aspirational living! This is the lifestyle Vogue and other Conde Nast publications put in our faces. That $1500 bag matched with a $900 linen top.  Advice; Pay the rent before heading to Bloomingdales. 

Once again the magazines find themselves in the headlines, but for the wrong reason,,AGAIN!  Six years ago Conde Nast debased from Mid Manhattan to the World Trade Center. Fast Forward to the 2020 Pandemic, ad revenue flat lined. Suddenly, those palatial 1.2 million square feet became a brick tied to an ankle in a sea storm.

Fashion magazines have been in a denial stage for a decade. Bloggers and social media elbowed in once exclusive territory. Brand advertising splintered. But to the heads of Conde Nast, this was a bump on a Champagne Boulevard. They had become victims of a movement they help create, “Living In A Fake Reality”. 

Nothing says success than new digs. Trading up, moving to 1 World Trade in lower downtown New York represented the future, optimism. Anna Wintour and staff sat on top of the world. August 4th  2020, reports started circulating Advance Publications, parent company of Conde Nast, is scouting for a new office. I had to do a double take. Suddenly, Vanity Fair, New Yorker, Teen Vogue’s 21 floors lost its appeal or a need to  “trade down”. Six months ago I saw Vogue editors coming in and out of the Bristol and Hotel de Crillon hotels in Paris. 

One Minute This, Then, 

In April requesting government a bailout, today negotiating cheaper rent. No more fashion week teas in “Le Boudoir”. Have the company credit cards been cut? No worries, if a Vogue Staffer is reading this, send me a message. I know a few affordable places in Paris and Milan.

Looking over the magazines social media channels, I could see problems. Access to the best writers and photographers in the world, yet, a lack of original content replaced by recycled stories. How many pictures can be from the archives? Or Vogue Challenges every week?  HMMM! 

All smokes and mirrors, denial is a fabulous way to live until a “reality brick” hits the face. 


Categories
Fashion

Fashion Mags Relevance

Before the lockdown many fashion magazines were under pressure.  Are they relevant during an ongoing pandemic?  As consumers face stark choices, the existence of many publications looks uncertain. Editions cut. Titles closed.  Selling bling is out of style. 

Check out our video on the matter.