Designer Victor Hart from Bologna gave a fast interview about his denim line. Stay tuned for the video story.
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By Denim Design
Tag: fashion news
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Calvin Klein Returns
The most anticipated runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar, Calvin Klein. After several years off the schedule the iconic label announced a new collection would be shown from a new creative head. Veronica Leoni, the Italian designer took charge of the famed brand. Calvin Klein transcended fashion, from jeans, slogans, scents, ads and commercials, the New York clothier became a part of the cultural landscape.
Mixing minimalism, athleticism and sensuality a Calvin Klein became one of the top fashion brands in the world.
I’m a sexual person, and that’s reflected in my clothes and my advertisements. Calvin Klein
After selling the company to PVH in 2002, Klein stepped away from the fashion world. Raf Simons briefly took the helm from 2016 to 2018. What looked like a perfect fit on paper, soon became a slow-moving clash between creative vision and corporate reality, the Belgium designer left. After the departure, Calvin Klein stopped presenting runway shows. Instead corporate heads focused on the lucrative under garments, accessories and perfume lines.
Now, Veronica is at bat, the first female to head CK. The former Celine and The Row designer has the task of breathing new life into the iconic fifty-seven year old clothier.
I would like to praise the looks but for one reason or another, the feeling of confusion enters my head. The gender mixed show included shapes and colors that came across as robotic inspired. The lack of fluid sexuality for a brand known for sex appeal got lost in the modern translation. Where were the bodies? The masculinity. The femininity.
The streamlined vertical aesthetic took a turn in Leoni’s interpretation. Taken away to the closet replaced with added addendums fitting the times: slouchy jackets with elongated sleeves.
Was this a great collection from Calvin Klein? I expect to see a more concise line the next time.
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Couture 25
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The Fashion Musical Chair
The Fashion Musical Chairs Contest continue. In one week, three brands made big changes. Thankfully, I have a chalkboard to help keep up with who is where, just erase then add a new name.
When John Galliano took over as Creative Head of Martin Margiela, the British designer had come in from the cold after being ousted from Dior. Ten years later the partnership has ended. After months of rumors, Mr. Galliano announced his resignation from the Paris House. Admittedly sad news, the 64-year-old brought a creative romanticism to the label. The runway shows were fantasy run from surreal to vintage sumptuous fantasy of diverse materials. There was no announcement on where John Galliano will go. Perhaps, his own label or retire, we have to wait and see.
Chanel finally announced a new head six months after Virginie Viard’s exit. The uber luxury brand named Matthieu Blazy as the new creative head. Coming from Bottega Veneta, Bailey will be in charge of ten collections a year. I see a lot of energy drinks in the Belgium born designer’s future. Chanel is more than a brand but a cultural tentpole for fashion and style. How will Blazy interrupt the classic Tweed Jacket? Recently, the Chanel runway shows have lacked the grand pageantry typical under Lagerfeld, possibly, the dull period in the Grand Palais is over.
As one designer leaves, another enters, Bottega Veneta placed Louise Trotter as Matthieu Blazy’s replacement. Coming from Carven, a brand known for oversized looks and exaggeration, Trotter’s view with Italian Tailoring should be interesting.
Fashion is about change.
Another day another fashion accessory scandal hits the airwaves. Once again Prato finds itself at the center of suspect labor practices. This time Aljazeera uncovered more shoddy production in the Tuscany city. Major fashion brands employing contractors, sub-contractors and sub-sub-contractors engage in cat and mouse games in order to circumvent Italian Labor laws.
As luxury increased prices on one end, they sought out cheaper production on the other. Capitalism rewards those who exploit more efficiently Workers earning as little as 3 euros an hour work a twelve-hour day, sometimes six days a week manufacturing glamorous leather pieces that sell for as much as 3400 euros in high-end shops.
There is nothing wrong having a labeled expensive handbag. But the dilemma is the hidden or not hidden mechanics of the product coveted. An expensive leather handbag is a sought of trophy. However, what if the prize comes from an unscrupulous source? The most convenient human emotion to access is denial.
The brazenness of luxury brands and producers to almost flaunt their less than ethical ways is baffling. Supply chains are easily traceable in 2024. Everyone has a camera and a social media account with potential to post a brand damaging image.
A big leather factory with illegal sweatshop labor wouldn’t go unnoticed. Yet, why are the companies relaxed about sourcing products? Because executives know consumers will forget a scandal. Certainly the outrage will be hot and loud at the beginning, then back to normal.
While watching the investigative report, the saying “It is morally wrong to allow a sucker to keep his money” came to my mind. When a factory owner details the nebulous agreements then the manufacturing price of a handbag, the world of luxury accessory is a sucker’s desire. One item made with a third party inflated added cost of 84 euros in Italy, retails for 2800 euros in soft lite carpeted outlets around the world.
Now when I see a person with a designer handbag proudly walking down the street with an air of style superiority. I will have to hold back my snigger.
Pitti Uomo 2025 starts January 14th in Florence Italy. The bi-annual menswear fashion trade fair showcases brands, style and trends from around the world. The fashion world faces strong headwinds as economies slow down, consumers cut back and geo-politics rattle business. During a Zoom Call with Director of Communication Lapo Cianchi, the head gave one word, “Unpredictable” is the general outlook in the fashion world. The frank honesty was welcomed. The business model for fashion trade show is being called into question. Since Covid, the attendance numbers have not recovered. Even so, Pitti Uomo is a special gathering for men’s fashion lovers.
With over 800 exhibitors signed, this upcoming apparel forum is an important event on the calendar. MM6 from French house Maison Margiela hits the runway with “do not follow the rules” looks. The other designer on the calendar, Satoshi Kuwata, comes to Tuscany with his label Setchu. According to the brand’s web page “a fusion of two cultures” is the basis of the gender-neutral aesthetic.
Fashion and lifestyle concepts continue to evolve and merge. Concepts of Community and Active Style of Living have emerged as consumers push more into experiences over brand linkage. Producers, buyers and creatives seek shared passions with communal relationships and passions for the same ideas and values.
Knees Up, a new concept store centered around Marathon enthusiasts has a prominent role at Pitti Uomo. The popular retail space located in East London offers fashion, coffee, sportswear and a place to recover from physical training. Several athletic brands will exhibit with the first-time headliner in Fortezza da Basso.
The same questions linger, but have become more obvious. As customers move away from well-known masstige labels, will retailers take a chance on small brands? Perhaps in these rattled times, a small bet can pay back big returns.
Of course, we expect the traditional Dandy pageantry in the center courtyard.
Pitti Uomo starts January 14th until 17th in Florence Italy.
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Naturally Dazzling
It’s always a privilege to attend the Boucheron presentation in Paris during Couture Week. The luxury jewel brand’s media gathering in July served up dazzling beats of precious stone designs. In the Vendome head office, creative head Claire Choisne describe the pieces as influenced from her trip to Iceland. The island’s wondrous landscape shaped by water, ice, waves and volcanic terrain provided inspiration to the French native. Travel can be a story in different forms.
Fashion Week month just ended, but the news from the style capitals keeps coming. First, the shock announcement of Hedi Silmane leaving French House Celine after seven years took the industry by surprise. The Paris born designer revitalised the womenswear label with youthful designs. Parent company LVMH released a statement reading Michael Rider will replace Hedi.
Milan’s Missoni issued a statement that Filippo Grazioli exited. Known for knightwear, Missoni returned to the runway schedule two years where Filippo debut a colorful, well received collection for the family owned label. Alberto Caliri has been named as the replacement.
It is hard to believe there was a time when designer had longevity sitting at the top of the pyramid. Those days have passed the same as shopping at a Sears Department Store in a local mall. There is better job security as an UBER driver than being a fashion creative head.
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The First Impressions, Paris
For some reason Paris Fashion Week felt a bit desperate for attention this season. Pandering is never good. In the crowded landscape designers are under pressure to get that viral moment to stand above the rest. For this reason, some collections looked disjointed, a circle in a square peg. Creatively, the City of Lights fashion scene has become overly vulnerable to smartphone scrolling.
The big news, Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino. The stage setting fitting for the Rome born designer: dreams and romance. That was the problem. Valentino was a brand of refined elitism. Jackie O to Joan Collins, the Jet Set Crowd wore the label as an emblem of being in a certain club. Alessandro’s collection, while lush, comes across as garish compared to the house’s past styles. While in doubt of the 51-year-old talent, his Gucci era heavily influenced looks on the runway. It is no secret Kering Group invested in the house, perhaps a way to challenge Louis Vuitton in the uber luxury brand category, however, as soft luxury is trending with shoppers, why did they allow Alessandro to drive the opposite direction?
Demna at Balenciaga continues to challenge what makes fashion, fashion. The French label is popular with young buyers. The oversized sneakers were a must have for anyone under twenty-five. The giant logo on shirts worked in the Selfie Age. In 2024 the Georgian born returned to what he did best. Oversized jackets that belong on a lifeboat and baggy jeans were runway staples. Inner wear for the night, perfect for going to the 1920’s KitKat club. Do these looks work with young people looking for the lowest price on an app? Only the book keepers at Balenciaga know the answer.
Stay tuned for more fashion weeks coverage and more episodes of the Before Tacky Podcast.
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A Fashion Crisis At Hand
The fashion crisis is at hand. When journalist from major publications start sounding the bell over the lack of creativity on the recent runways, there are big problems. What took them so long to see the trees? For years the head in the sand was the modus operandi in the glamorous circles of Milan, Paris, New York and London. Corporations could squeeze designers dry with as many as eight to ten collections a year. When the creative is dry, on the next one. Corporate heads needed shows to sell everything from over priced hand bags to perfumes. Social media’s inexhaustible need for flashy images contributed to fashion’s current tango on the cliffside. Influencers came cheap, while cheapened the value of once aspirational brands.
The fashion world will have fewer cheek to cheek kisses in the coming months.
