An article in The Guardian tells the story of the effects of climate change on Alpaca breeders in Peru. In a past episode of Chat Cinema we also spoke about environmental consequences on the precious fashion textile. Utama, from director Alejandro Loayza Grisi is a film on a life under threat.
Gucci performed a reset this season at Milan Fashion Week. After the ouster of creative head Alessandro Michele, Naples born Sabato De Sarno took the lead of the legendary fashion house.
Less bling, more sexy chic looks hit the runway with looks based on feminine seduction. Parent company Kering sounded alarm bells as sales slipped in key markets. Buyers no longer wanted flashy, but rather low-key pieces. For the past fourteen years, Gucci pieces were about a conspicuous style. A part of the, “Hey, Look at Me wearing something expensive” fashion label group along with Balenciaga and Dolce&Gabbana.
Will this new direction restart the struggling brand? Can buyers wrap their heads around Gucci’s Ancora less is more looks of mini and leather skirts along with jewelled tops? We have to wait for this spring.
Stay tuned for Before Tacky, our podcast on fashion news and reviews.
Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton menswear collection debuted on a spectacular scale. The Pont Neuf bridge was the setting for the musician, now a full-time fashion designer, to show off his version of luxury looks. Virigil Abhloh’s death left a big hole to fill. When the Virginia native was made head of the famed house in February, eyebrows hit the ceiling. Williams’ limited experience and lack of training felt a bit out of sync with the demands needed to be a creative head. The multi-nominated artist has street cred with his label, Billionaire Boys Club. The streetwear brand is celebrating its 20th anniversary.
Going to a fashion show in some cases is not about the fashion but about who is attending. Jay Z and Beyonce sat next to LVMH head Bernard Arnault. LV brand ambassador Rhianna hit the front row with baby bump and husband A$AP Rocky. Throw in supermodel Naomi Campbell, singer Lenny Kravitz, actress Zendaya. It pays to have famous friends, add in all the resources a $20 billion corporation with the Paris landscape as a backdrop, a choir, band and symphony, this event was spectacle worthy of Imperial Rome.
Looking over the numerous looks strutting over the Seine River, suddenly I had flashbacks to downtown Los Angeles. There was a guy who sold who sold fake designer clothing from the back of a truck. If a buyer wanted to try on the pieces, the alley way was the changing room. All transactions were cash only, no questions asked.
Granted, Pharrell had only had three months to put together a collection. Looking over the pictures from June 20th, I saw recycled archives with new colors along with a homage to 90’s Ghetto Fabulousness. The absence of subtlety and lack of elegance struck because buyers want quiet luxury, toned down pieces of high quality. Secondly, there was no demonstrative style longevity with this collection. A fashion creative head needs authenticity, not the feeling of a capsule collection collaboration produced for a quick trip to the bank.
A person could be forgiven for thinking they were watching a garish indoctrination ritual. Logomania took over the catwalk in every color, shape and size, from bags and trunks to leather track suits with prints, suits with square patterns, pixel prints and knee length shorts with jackets.
I am willing to give Pharrell a second chance to reevaluate. Perhaps he will grow into the job. If not, the hit song maker still has his first career as a fallback.
Edward Enninful, Vogue’s first person of color Editor-in-Chief has moved to another position at the publishing house. It was a sort of a shocking announcement, with the usual “thank you for your support” and other clichéd niceties. The Ghanaian born’s new title is “global creative and cultural advisor” for the publishing house. That is a big title to swallow, imagine on a business card. Starting in 2024 Vogue UK will no longer have an EIC, but an Editor of Content. That means less money, less power, with all final decisions made in the United States.
For some time there has been an open secret of a rift between the Queen of High Fashion Anna Wintour and the British title head. Rumours of cold shoulders were rife, Edward not appearing at Vogue World in New York. Mr. Enninful has been the face of the fashion world’s move to inclusivity. Placing many no so typical faces on the cover. My questions, beyond the bubble hype, did these issues sell? Do readers buy fashion magazines for “activism”? The paradox of wearing a $10,000 dress while screaming a social cause is not exactly the same as Gandhi crisscrossing India demanding liberation from the British Empire.
Parent company Conde Nast has struggled over the digital years. Once fashion’s standard-bearer, today, the glossy pages come across as the faded opulence of your once glorious yet struggling aunt who has not come to terms with modern times. Instagram sets the fashion clock today.
The other hint of tension happened on June 1st when Wintour announced her plan for a London Vogue World event charity benefitting the arts scene. Enninful’s name was conspicuously missing from the announcement, a big slight for the ultimate UK based fashion insider. Even predators on the Serengeti respect each others’ territory, not New York’s Queen of the Magazines.
Edward learned what others knew. Those Prada’s will walk over anyone to stay on top of the rag trade press.
Fronting: Acting like you are more, or you have more, than what really exists.
Fake: is a word to describe people who aren’t themselves in order to gain friends and end up being more popular. They seem very nice to everyone, yet trash-talks them behind their back in order to get attention from people and make “friends” just to improve their social-status.
Shameless display of wealth entered a new dimension with the advent of social media, especially with Instagram. A post is not just a post, a picture is a digital brand. Fronting the fabulous life gives cred to the IG generation, living the Kardashian life. The economic reality behind the filtered smile, a lack of cash to sustain the image. Shopping, shopping, shopping for a designer bag, the latest sneaker, that brilliant fuchsia piece takes money. Bill Gates is now divorced, available, but the tech mogul does not want a clothes horse on his arm.
A TikTok post from a luxury retailer sales person revealed the hard truth. Fronting is mainstream and has reached the top. According to the sales person, people buy items, post them, then return the clothes to the store. Is this behavior new? NO! The past few years, there have been stories about “Instagram Returns”. Customers buy, wear, post, take back to the store. A generation go wearing something then brazenly returning was considered low to no class. In the 21st century, embarrassment is an outdated concept. Attention seeking knows no bounds.
One Saks Fifth Avenue shopper complained the high-end clothing mecca feels more like a thrift store, with many pieces on the store shelf looking worn.
Faking and fronting is contagious.
Mary Quant passed away today. The 93 year old designer died at her home in Surrey. Famous for popularizing the mini skirt in the 1960’s Quant opened her store in London in 1955. Influential a defining look of a generation, the high hemlines brought sex appeal to the women of the world. Her Bazaar Shop on Kings Road set the style standard, where famous customers including Brigette Bardot and Jane Fonda shopped to get the look of a generation. Known for her signature Bob hairdo, the Mary is credited with inventing water proof mascara and hot pants.
On her career, the East London born native said, “a lot of work and enormous fun”.
The end of an era, actually, a recycled trend that started a few years ago Logomania has moved from being Bling Chic to feeling dated. As the world continues to grapple with Covid and the Ukraine War, showing off a luxury purchase with a giant emblazoned logo seems a bit out of touch.
I remember when the latest craze of Logomania started thanks to social media. The Fake It At Any Cost culture went digital global on sharing platforms. First time luxury buyers not only wanted to show off their new affluence they wanted to flaunt the wealth. At times, the over do it styling became clownish. Classic, understated looks be darned.
Almost every fashion presentation or show I attended, it was the same plan, Go Big, Get Noticed. Fashion brands scrambled to redesign collections as well brand logos to get noticed. Influencers taking endless selfies accompanied with their latest purchases of an envied lifestyle dominated Instagram. Becoming a a living billboard was what fashion was all about for the past six years. Going to certain runway shows invitees would dress head to toe, as if attending a cult gathering, in a brand’s trademark symbol.
The was the fastest industry wide “What’s In Today, Out Tomorrow” shift I’d experience. Scalps were claimed. Recently, Michele’s exit from Gucci and Scott’s departure from Moschino are signals of the shift. A new reality has dawned of job uncertainty and energy crisis. The all-over Balenciga logo looks are out like latest The Shazam Movie.
As a very part time stylist and editor, a bit of relief because I never embraced paying a lot of money advertising a luxury brand. I was taught when it comes to fashion, notice me, then the clothes.
As I have said, there is a reason why images of classic styles are eternal, not because of a logo.
Another Fashion Earthquake shook the industry this week. Jeremy Scott, creative director of Moschino, departed from the Milan house. After a decade of creating merry whimsical designs mixed pop culture references, the Kansas City born announced his resignation. Four months after the Alessandro Michele’s shocking exit from Gucci. Jeremy was always good for the colorful, Katie Perry’s 2019 Met Gala look took a funny bite of the Red Carpet.
Famed for being tongue in cheek, Moschino, founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino, brought fun intertwined with sex appeal to ready to wear.
With sudden high profile resignations, the righting is on the wall, fashion seems to be shifting away from flamboyant. The question, Fashion:What is Going On? Who is next?
Filling the shoes of Virgil Abloh was never going to be an easy job. The menswear designer made a mark in streetwear before heading Louis Vuitton mens line. Virgil was hitting a stride, the sudden death of the African American born creative head in 2021 shocked the fashion world.
The French luxury house announced Pharrell Williams as its new head. Now, this will certainly get attention. Mr. Williams is brilliant music artist, just look over his resume. In style, he has played a coy game by flirting with non aggressive but in the line looks. Wearing a Black Chanel Jacket, short trouser suits and oversized hats have placed the Virginia Beach native on many Best Dressed Lists.
What the multi Grammy Winner lacks in formal fashion training will certainly be compensated in media coverage. As the competition for attention gets harder and harder brands want to stand out. But is Star Power enough to engage youthful buyers who are easily seduced by filtered Instagram posts? Brand loyalty these days is about as lasting as Tic Tok Reel. A music superstar taking an end of the collection bow in Paris, the replicating global headlines could sell millions of bags and colognes for the $20 billion brand or the inspiration of catty memes.
Yes, I am looking at this appointment with a bit of a side eye combined with curiosity. Personally, I know many menswear designers who could put together a dazzling collection if they had the deep pocket resources of global corporation. LVMH has thrown the dice with unproven designers in the past, Galliano at Dior, yet this is a high profile gamble for both sides. This June all eyes will be on Paris for Pharrell’s debut. Yes, I will watch, online of course.
I met London based Park Sohee in Milan during Fashion Week. I knew it, a new fashion designer star has emerged. Recently Park showed her Miss Sohee collection in Paris for Couture Week.
