My first round picks from Couture Weeks from Paris.
I am still looking over the images, my second round of picks are coming.
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Couture 2023
Tag: fashion news
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Musical Chair at Gucci
I need a crystal ball to keep up with the creative head resignations, musical chairs.
The shocking news of designer Alessandro Michele departing Gucci reverberated through the fashion industry. Since 2015 the Rome born head was front of the center of the brand. Michele has been the Crown Prince of Modern Bling with collections primed for social media postings. Twenty years ago the Rome born creative director joined the house in the accessory wear division.
It’s hard to believe Gucci parent company Kering letting one of the top moneymakers and high profiled talent who seemed to flourish in the corporate clothing world. Only a few months ago Alessandro staged a star studded runway show on Hollywood Blvd. As with many great designers, Michele understood the theatrics of the business, walking up the stairs of the Met Gala or twins walking down the runway, Gucci was always in papers, magazines and online. Or being tied to the hip to superstars Harry Styles and Jared Leto, the Florence based house seemed to define the moment. But no all was well. In recent hours reports filtered out sales were down in key markets. Is the world tiring of the over the top brocades and ostentatious pieces?
It’s all about the Social
With 49.6 million Instagram followers, Gucci is about sending the style signal of wearing your wealth on your back. Showing off is good. After all part of their buyer fun is the over the top appeal. Advertising to the world, a “Look at Me” attitude. Gender is a relic of the past.
With the exit before the upcoming fashion weeks in January and February, a major fashion house is under the microscope. Who will be the replacement? As a fashion professional, the announcement came as a shock. Can a successor continue on the same path? Doubts are singing in my head. As the world enters an economic downturn, will Gucci tone down? It is hard to imagine.
We have to wait and see what happens at Gucci. CEO Marco Bizzarri will have to move fast concerning a replacement announcement.
Certainly Alessandro Michele’s career is not over, just moving onward.
For out Before Tacky podcast we discuss what is happening in the fashion world. Reflecting these times of certainty brands, magazines and buyers chug along trying to figure out a right path.
Lyn and Taiwo join the discussion from Milan and London.
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Pitti Uomo Countdown
Today, we start the sixty day count down to Pitti Uomo in Florence. Having not attended since the lockdown, we are looking forward to the premiere menswear event starting January 10th.
Coming up on Before Tacky Podcast a discussion about the state of retail in the fashion world. With store closes how will chains survive?
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Fashion Week Reviews
Of Course Not! We have not forgotten Fashion Week. We will have news, reviews and opinions coming.
Before Tacky podcast talk to fashion entrepreneur Rodrigo Doxandabarat about his label Dotz.
Click below
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Sohee Milan Fashion Week
Check out the interview with the Miss Sohee. The fashion designer behind statement looks influenced by her homeland.
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Miyake 1939-2022
Famed Japanese designer Issey Miyake passed today. Famed for his distinctive pleats, the fashion head created a house around flowing designs and loose pieces.
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Gap Meets Ye
The fashion collection many have been waiting for has dropped. The Gap, Ye and Balenciaga collaboration debuted. My first impression. Grim. Misshapen. It took a “genius” to design this!
The Players
Kayne and Gap announced a 10 year partnership in June 2020. For one side the deal made commercial sense, while for the other, a throw of the dice hoping for a lucky double 6 retail turnaround.
It has been no secret the San Francisco based casual wear retailer has been in trouble for a long time. Once a closet staple Gap became a bit boring. Hail Mary Plays are always risking. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t. Gap has been closing stores for decades. Once upon a time the American Mall mainstay had the pulse of what buyers wanted, cool ads, colorful jeans at good prices yet somewhere the retailer lost its way as Zara took the style trendsetting crown. Turning to the headline grabber Ye confirmed what fashion insiders knew, Gap was rudderless, looking for a Captain.
The always in the media Rapper Kanye West or Ye needs no introduction. If a person has not heard about his fashion ambition, maybe they were visiting Mars for the past fifteen years. Virgil Abloh was a Ye collaborator before becoming creative head of Louis Vuitton menswear. West with Adidas netted billionaires from their sneaker collection collaboration.
The storied French fashion house Balenciaga run by Demma Gvasalia brings chic continental creditability to this “creative exploration”.
Not Your Parents GAP
The moment arrived on Monday 26th. Finally, buyers and fans got to see, touch and purchase the first pieces. According to the New York Times article “Is this partnership a cautionary tale or a new model for fashion to come?” The 36 engineered pieces by Balenciaga are a technical revision of classic Gap styled hoodies and t-shirts.
The Gap’s 1960’s California optimistic heritage has been replaced by cheerless style gear.
The Gap Times Square store was re-designed with a dark interior with clothing piled on a table as if in a backstreet vintage shop. Just have at it. No, this is not a joke. Not even racks or neatly folded shirt stacks. Imagine a going out of business sale at Woolworth’s.
Some in the fashion press have been going Goo Goo Ga Ga over this spectacle. Not here. Is this collection a joke? Making fun of buyers who fall the gag.
The die hard fans waiting outside before the store opening in New York City to be the first to buy pieces with the appeal of a bleak video game character. Being hip in the fake til you make it culture comes at a price. Gap built its brand on affordability, suddenly, a $320 for a hoodie, $190 dove print t-shirt.
Buy?
Was it worth it? It depends on who you ask. For Ye, another notch on the belt to becoming fashion mogul. As for for Gap, the retailer needs all the attention it can get. All the recent headlines have been bad. Who gets excited about their namesake Khaki Pants? Balenciaga sent out the word, their part in this trio is done. A merciful “Thank You” to Paris.
Is this fashion’s future or present reality? Sometimes it is better to just back and watch situations unfold from a sideline.
Lastly, if I go to a Gap store, I’ll stick to the basic white t for $15.