Pitti Uomo starts tomorrow from Florence. Check out three Before Tacky fashion podcasts from last year.
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Tag: fashion report
Another day another fashion accessory scandal hits the airwaves. Once again Prato finds itself at the center of suspect labor practices. This time Aljazeera uncovered more shoddy production in the Tuscany city. Major fashion brands employing contractors, sub-contractors and sub-sub-contractors engage in cat and mouse games in order to circumvent Italian Labor laws.
As luxury increased prices on one end, they sought out cheaper production on the other. Capitalism rewards those who exploit more efficiently Workers earning as little as 3 euros an hour work a twelve-hour day, sometimes six days a week manufacturing glamorous leather pieces that sell for as much as 3400 euros in high-end shops.
There is nothing wrong having a labeled expensive handbag. But the dilemma is the hidden or not hidden mechanics of the product coveted. An expensive leather handbag is a sought of trophy. However, what if the prize comes from an unscrupulous source? The most convenient human emotion to access is denial.
The brazenness of luxury brands and producers to almost flaunt their less than ethical ways is baffling. Supply chains are easily traceable in 2024. Everyone has a camera and a social media account with potential to post a brand damaging image.
A big leather factory with illegal sweatshop labor wouldn’t go unnoticed. Yet, why are the companies relaxed about sourcing products? Because executives know consumers will forget a scandal. Certainly the outrage will be hot and loud at the beginning, then back to normal.
While watching the investigative report, the saying “It is morally wrong to allow a sucker to keep his money” came to my mind. When a factory owner details the nebulous agreements then the manufacturing price of a handbag, the world of luxury accessory is a sucker’s desire. One item made with a third party inflated added cost of 84 euros in Italy, retails for 2800 euros in soft lite carpeted outlets around the world.
Now when I see a person with a designer handbag proudly walking down the street with an air of style superiority. I will have to hold back my snigger.
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Yoshiki in Paris
Masion Yoshiki showed at Paris Fashion Week for Spring 2025, going with geometric shapes and many mini hemlines the designer buttressed looks with black, white and pastel colors. According the press release, the Japanese Superstar paid homage to 60’s American Pop Culture with print dresses.
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A Fashion Crisis At Hand
The fashion crisis is at hand. When journalist from major publications start sounding the bell over the lack of creativity on the recent runways, there are big problems. What took them so long to see the trees? For years the head in the sand was the modus operandi in the glamorous circles of Milan, Paris, New York and London. Corporations could squeeze designers dry with as many as eight to ten collections a year. When the creative is dry, on the next one. Corporate heads needed shows to sell everything from over priced hand bags to perfumes. Social media’s inexhaustible need for flashy images contributed to fashion’s current tango on the cliffside. Influencers came cheap, while cheapened the value of once aspirational brands.
The fashion world will have fewer cheek to cheek kisses in the coming months.
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Connected at Digital X
Digital X in Cologne, the digitalization event started by German Telekom hits the mark for technology gatherings. On September 18th and 19th, brands, experts and press discuss topics concerning: cybersecurity, sustainability, connected business and future of work.
The fifty thousand attendees moved from one staging area to another talking to individuals and teams concerning the future of digital interaction.
I found it a bit contradictory, the topic of Connected Business as many technology companies are requiring return to offices. Since the Covid Lockdowns, Virtual, Augmented and Immersive Reality devices and gadgets have advance rapidly. Apple’s Vision Pro, Meta’s Quest and Microsoft’s HoloLens are being promoted as the next generation of tech headsets.
The Huawei IdeaHub ES2 introduced me to the Bring Your Own Meeting (BYOM) term. The hardware is compatible with Zoom and Microsoft Teams platforms for distanced collaborations. The smart whiteboard, camera and speaker/voice incorporate Z-Tech technology. The applications for this technology go beyond corporate office usage. The educational potential is boundless. Higher learning is about to get disrupted. Schools and universities could use the entire hardware system and platforms digital classes, eliminated the need for physical classes. Students log in to a session with an instructor and can download the lecture via a QR code.
Curiously, giant IBM offered a fashion and tech melody. The US company works with clothing brands an AI profile matrix for brands to better understand customer needs and purchasing habits. Given the poor financial health of online sales platforms, maybe this could help, but I have a few doubts.
I would like to write better about start-ups area in Cologne; however, Germany is still a country trying to embrace the business trend while trying to stay in the risk adverse box. Originality requires going out on a limb. Many of the ideas at the different booths seemed more safe copies of tried concepts.
Schedule Digital X on your tech calendar for 2025, this get together is well worth the time.
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How Much? The Dior Markup
The expression “a sucker is born every minute” applies to luxury fashion these days. Paris label Dior knows the world wants to belong to the bourgeois club. Buying an expensive handbag is an arm reach into another social circle. Emotions of supreme consumption in boutiques satisfies those temporary upward mobility urges was not lost by the fashion’s profit driven machine.
The world’s largest opulent entity, LVMH, learned how to make the desirable more accessible by making it more scarce while producing cheaper products. A business model earning billions every year.
When the Italian authorities announced the seizure of a factory producing Dior bag in sweat shop conditions. Many laborers were illegal. Beds were in the factory enabling 24-hour production. According to reports the production site was sourced to produce handbags for the French brand. Certainly, raised eyebrows hit the ceiling after the announcement of the cost of producing one handbag, 57 euros. The more surprising news is the end price for the aspirational buyer, 2750 euros. That is a markup of nearly fifty times the production cost. In comparison, an Apple iPhone’s markup cost is double the manufactured price.
Admittedly, this author was not shocked by the news. During Pitti Uomo, a tannery colleague with a factory located in the same area of LVMH’s facilities told me there were many questionable production techniques involved in the company’s workings. This is not the first time Louis Vuitton has been hit by authorities concerning production. In 2010 UK Advertising Standards Authority banned two misleading ads concerning handmade bags when in reality they were machine made.
At the time of writing the seized factory is under control of the prosecutors.
The next time gazing in front of a Dior window with frivolous desires, remember the quote: “People don’t want the truth because they don’t want the illusions destroyed.”
The musical chairs continue in the fashion world as yet more creative heads have departed major houses. I was in a state of shock when Pierpaolo Piccioli exited as head of Rome brand house Valentino after twenty-five years. The couture label epitomized glamour with its monochromatic pink looks and feathered head pieces. All great rides come to an end. Piccioli’s clock rang. However, the clock was ticking. When powerhouse Kering bought 30% of the house in July 2023, changes were coming. As a media sweetheart, Valentino matched Louis Vuitton with celebrity filled fashion shows in Paris. As a major sales force, the numbers came up short. Enter the former Kering alumi and past darling Alessandro Michele. The once head of Gucci has been given the task make the sixty-four-year-old brand commercially relevant. It is a curious mix of bling meets classical style. It will be interesting to see the next evolution of the big V logo brand in Spring 2025 collection
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Glamor meets Modesty
During Milan Fashion Week fashion designer Deborah LaTouche spoke about her label SABIRAH. In the MFW HUB the UK based designer discussed the collections modest looks made for a woman seeking glamor.
Before Tacky
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Made of VCR Tape
At the 96th Academy Awards artist and filmmaker Donata Wenders wore a one of kind Cruba Berlin VCR Tape Dress to great acclaim from the global fashion press on the ultimate Hollywood Red Carpet.
On this reposted podcast from 2023 we spoke with fashion designer Mira von der Osten along with actress Eugenia Kuzmina about the material and production of this unique creation.
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Milan Looks and Looks
More looks from Milan Fashion Week.
Lorena Antoniazz
