Here is the second part of our Milan Fashion Week coverage.
PASQUALE BRUNI
CURIEL
SERAPIAN
PASQUALE BRUNI
CURIEL
SERAPIAN
Tag: fashion report
PASQUALE BRUNI
CURIEL
SERAPIAN
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Original over Expressionless
When a campaign is out of the box, it should be appreciated. Normally, fashion brands employ the same template. How many expressionless face models have we seen peddling the latest expensive this or that in glossy images? For a creative business, the fashion industry can be numbing with the same staid images.
Brooklyn jewelry and handbag designer Alexis Bitter took a cue from different influences by imagining a universe with the cast of characters that border on tragic comedy, integrating branding and seeding with clever storytelling in short Instagram videos.
Old money maven Margaux and abused assistant Jules or Jules are the golden Manhattan team, a modern dysfunctional duo that makes the new Sex and the City reboot feel wooden.
Theresa is straight from the John Waters casting call. The fabulous Coney Island native has her seven teen fans on TikTok and a husband who loves Fox News.
The FLU newscasters, a bull eyes parody of modern journalism with serpentine smiles glossed over with high-tech graphics.
Alexis Bitter proves originality and risk can triumph.
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Statement Street Fashion
Street fashion is a statement of independence. A mixing of top to bottom pieces to stand out from the crowd. At Pitti Uomo Raf Ryes talks about his streetwear brand VERYRARE. The Paris based designer discusses his influences and inspiration behind the label as well as the designs that are based on artworks.
Press days are always an interesting moment in the fashion business. These are times when professionals and non-professionals a like trek around the city to press agencies to go over represented clients and brands in more details. For me, I am either inspired or informed. For the upcoming season, inform sat in the driver’s seat.
Amazon Fashion, ?yes?, you read it right. When I got the invitation, my expectations were not high. When I entered the apartment, I asked ?What is Amazon Fashion, Help me understand!? The mega e-commerce site has moved into selling high-end fashion. The bigger surprise was why would desired brands sell on a site known for cut rate prices for everything from books to dog collars to grey brands. The Bellevue, Washington tech giant enlisted social media influencers to appeal to Generation Z’s as an aspiring shopping destination for HUGO and Armani Exchange pieces. Well, Jeff Bezo did not earn $200 billion by making the wrong bets. But then again, who remembers Fire? The Amazon smartphone that came and went.
The second bit of information I was told, Danish corporation Bestseller is introducing a new menswear label aimed at affluent customers. Annarr means ?the next one? in the Norse language. A curious venture for Bestseller, whose subsidiaries include fast fashion staple Jack&;Jones, it means a gamble if clientele want a buying less but better quality. Four collections per year, carefully curated with looks influenced by Copenhagen casual style with a promise of layering abilities. Annarr arrives in stores in Spring 2024.
In the shock and surprise category, G-Star Raw has a 1,200 euro jacket. Normally, one does not associate a luxury price with a known streetwear brand, but as different segments of the fashion market converge in other categories such as trainers and t-shirts, the Dutch label has made a play in the luxury category.
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A Fashion Week Builder
Bauyrzhan Shadibekov talks about Visa Fashion Week Almaty. The CEO discusses the elements of putting together a new professional fashion event from the Eurasia capital. On this episode of the Before Tacky podcast get all the details of an emerging creative style scene.
Jean Paul Gaultier again arrives in Berlin to creatively head Falling In Love musical show at Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin.
Here is a sneak peek from the show.
Karl Lagerfeld took front and center at the Met Gala 2023. KARL LAGERFELD:A LINE OF BEAUTY was the theme of fashion’s biggest Red Carpet. The legendary German helmed the luxury house Chanel for 37 years.
Vogue editor Anna Wintour along with co-hosts Rodger Federer, Dua Lipa, Michaela Coel and Penelope Cruz brought the glitz and glamour to the exclusive Red Carpet affair, raising money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
As with so many other gilded events, this year’s Met Gala came across as awkward. Imagine putting together an IKEA shelf with a 12 degree leftward angle.
Would we go to the most exclusive party in the fashion world? This would be a hard a question to answer. Who wouldn’t want to be a part of the club? However, it’s no secret the fashion industry is swerving on a mountain side road. Retailers as well as brands are feeling a hard pinch. Consumers have cut spending on clothing. Weak brands are falling while the strong ones struggle.
Reality? Who Cares!
Conde Nast has not been immune from shifts. The publishing house has fired staff, issued pay cuts and is decamping in Louboutins for newer, speculation is,,,, cheaper, digs.
I was recently speaking to a press agent about the speed of the change. No one knows who is in charge of publications. Email contacts now have a “no longer working here” instant reply. Journalistic quality has become questionable. What is an objective review? Magazines are now platforms for hire where if you do not pay there is no coverage. Press invites are more of a kin to potluck events, bring your own dish. In the past, agent relations were about seduction with Goodie Bag samples, generous catering and a conversation.
The Good Ole Days are gone. What happens now is more similar to a used car salesman in a polyester plaid suit trying to close a deal before the buyer becomes aware. As many press agents have lost clients, so have their kissing on the cheeks budgets decreased. Only the “In Crowd” may get a trinket. Food, maybe, is a croissant from a corner supermarket, if the lowly overworked intern has time to grab them. Call me adaptable, these days I pack a protein bar with a bottle of water for fashion press events.
Which brings me back to the Met Gala. Sure, it looks great, gilded circus food, cotton candy on a stick. But how long can you eat cotton candy?
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Logomania is OUT!
The end of an era, actually, a recycled trend that started a few years ago Logomania has moved from being Bling Chic to feeling dated. As the world continues to grapple with Covid and the Ukraine War, showing off a luxury purchase with a giant emblazoned logo seems a bit out of touch.
I remember when the latest craze of Logomania started thanks to social media. The Fake It At Any Cost culture went digital global on sharing platforms. First time luxury buyers not only wanted to show off their new affluence they wanted to flaunt the wealth. At times, the over do it styling became clownish. Classic, understated looks be darned.
Notice
Almost every fashion presentation or show I attended, it was the same plan, Go Big, Get Noticed. Fashion brands scrambled to redesign collections as well brand logos to get noticed. Influencers taking endless selfies accompanied with their latest purchases of an envied lifestyle dominated Instagram. Becoming a a living billboard was what fashion was all about for the past six years. Going to certain runway shows invitees would dress head to toe, as if attending a cult gathering, in a brand’s trademark symbol.
The was the fastest industry wide “What’s In Today, Out Tomorrow” shift I’d experience. Scalps were claimed. Recently, Michele’s exit from Gucci and Scott’s departure from Moschino are signals of the shift. A new reality has dawned of job uncertainty and energy crisis. The all-over Balenciga logo looks are out like latest The Shazam Movie.
As a very part time stylist and editor, a bit of relief because I never embraced paying a lot of money advertising a luxury brand. I was taught when it comes to fashion, notice me, then the clothes.
As I have said, there is a reason why images of classic styles are eternal, not because of a logo.
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Talking about Hats
Before Tacky Episode talks about Hats with a man who is an expert on the subject, Jacopo Politi, Head of Styling for Italian label BORSALINO. Co-Host Eugenia Kuzmina discuss the history, details and influences of the creative leader.
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At Pitti Uomo Jan 23
My first Pitti Uomo after the lockdowns, opinion, good to be back, but you can’t go back. This time around in Florence the menswear event came across a bit melancolic. The parties were subdued. The number of dressed up peacocks was down. Moving from exhibitor to exhibitor feelings were high yet realistic. There were no expectations of big orders, rather a relief for potential customers to see designers are still around. The best part of attending Pitti Uomo is seeing the range of mens fashion. There is no lack of color or style. I hope retailers take note. Instead of the same brands in every store, try something different.
