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Fashion

My Highlights from London

The United Kingdom is going through a lot. A government just holding its head above water, under siege on all fronts. Like the rest of the world, Covid has taken a toll on the country. Citizens refusing to understand the gravity of the virus. The Brexit drama continues its tortuous walk to an end of a year climax. 

On the fashion side, London Fashion Week, the smallest of the Big Four events mixed online and live shows. I have always had the opinion the British capital city charts a different course from Milan, Paris, and New York. The ability to make “quirky” work. To take a classic style, then completely transform the look with an edgy print, material, or cut. This is London’s secret as a fashion tolerant city.

My Highlights 

Burberry by Tischi, not a great collection shown in a forest setting. But I liked the solid colors of blues and oranges. The mix of denim on an all weather coat not so much. Save that for the influencers who take 30 selfies a day.

As an American, when I saw Erdem’s collection I though of romantic fantasy from an 18thcentury novel. The story reads, woman meets man on a walk, they fall in love but have others while longing for each other. The long lengths, whites and soft floral prints would be worn by the heroine of the tale. 

I am not familiar LaQuan Smith but better late than never. Street fabulous meets Glam best describes a brand that goes for sex appeal without the guilt.

Halpern decided to feature real front line workers in his presentation. Normally, I am not in favor of “real people” as models. However, his creations were about empowerment merged with optimism. Frilling Pom Pom Dresses and suits made of spirited colors and prints.

Emilia Wickstead’s white sail boat prints, cropped tops and cottons made for delightful collection. I wished I had been there to touch each piece. The complication was the fact each delicate look came across as simple.

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Fashion

Streetwear Collaboration

Luxury fashion and streetwear brands continue to unite.   What do I think of the Prada-Adidas Collaboration launched today?  Are these worth the price? Stay Tuned for my opinion.

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Fashion

Couture Without a Runway!

A follow up to my earlier story on Couture Week without a Runway.  

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Fashion

Milan Digital Fashion Week

Our online coverage from Milan begins today. 

Boyy Bag 
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Fashion

Paris Fashion Week Men, AGAIN

Paris Fashion Week Men ended today. Here is a list of looks in films. 

Stay Tuned for reviews. 

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Fashion

Digital Couture,,Few Looks

Paris Haute Couture Week or days have passed. In the New Normal, runway shows are from a past era. Being front row at a Chanel is not immunity from Covid-19. 

What I did I think? Without the runway and excitement it felt a bit of a let down. Brands opted for long videos and short films. I had the feeling of watching a long Calvin Klein Obsession commercial. Fashion Week should center around fashion but for some reason it did not. I am not sure why. Fashion houses spent a lot of money showcasing film techniques. For some reason, the clothes took a backseat, a bit strange for a fashion week. As a film buff, one time aspiring filmmaker, part film critic; I would ask some teams, “What Happened”? Fashion Weeks focus on clothes.

Looking for inspiration, fashion and film have a relationship dating back to the Golden Age of Hollywood. “The Women”, director George Cukor’s 1939 black and white all starer included a 6 minute Technicolor fashion parade. Audrey Hepburn’s “Funny Face” was scene for scene showcase of the actress wearing Givenchy looks. For some reason many designers and their creators decided to take a more expressive artistic sense mixed with the abstract.

Fashion is live spectacle. I prefer fashion week with blank staring models, self important editors, and Borrowed Sunday Best Dressed Wannabes.

Let’s hope for a vaccine soon.

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Fashion

Paris Fashion Week Couture Day 3

Highlights from Digital Week.


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Fashion

Paris Couture Week Day 2

The first Digital Couture Week from the City of Lights.  Some of my highlights listed below.

Stay tuned for more extensive coverage. 

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Fashion

Will Anna Stay?

The famous silhouette at Fashion Week for the past 32 years. The perfectly coiffed helmut hairstyle. Oversized sunglasses. Statement Necklace. Calf-length dresses. Admired, feared, and copied, Anna Wintour commanded attention. Whether on purpose or not, when she entered the room her presence was felt far and wide. 

Vogue Head Anna Wintour 

As the daughter of famous newspaper editor Charles Wintour, publishing runs through her veins. Vogue USA sits at the top of a diminishing fashion magazine landscape besieged by the digital platforms. Now the resurgence of Black Lives Matter has placed the once venerated title and its editor in a cross hairs.   As the pressure mounts for a more socially responsible outlook, many want answers about the lack of diverse voices in the fashion field, particularly at Vogue. Will Anna Survive?

The “C” Word  

In Anna’s defense, her first cover model was Naomi Campbell in 1989. But, in 2020 the entire organization feels like a social club trapped in an episode of “Mad Men”. First, Andre Talley, former Vogue Editor at Large, released excepts from his book calling Wintour “A Colonial Broad”. OUCH!

Side Note: I plan on reading Mr. Talley’s book “The Chiffon Trenches”. I have some questions with a raised eyebrow concerning his new found “Identity” and “Sour Grapes” tell all.

I cannot remember a designer or creative of color championed by her or anyone at the publication. Based In New York City, I fail to see why it was difficult to find a Black Photographer. It took singer Beyonce to insist on one for her cover shoot. Former African American staff members (the few who worked there) complained of bad treatments and lazy stereotypes.

Can She Stay? 

If a letter to Vogue staff on lack of support for African American Staff members was suppose to put out the fire, it only threw gasoline on a flame. Conde Nast Chairman Roger Lynch during a staff phone call defended the embattled Editor in Chief. Stating, “Wintour is staying put”. But with opens calls inside and out insisting on her resignation, it is hard to see how this corporate position is sustainable.

How will fashion handle this increasing awkward relationship? A one time asset suddenly has the potential of being a liability at fashion week. Social Media could be unforgiving if that scrutinizing silent gaze is sitting front row.

My Thoughts 

As for my real opinion. It was no secret many publishing houses were and are cultural insensitive.  I would not have met the “hiring profile”.  Vogue USA never impressed me on the creative level. It did not take risks. Nor did I find it particularly stimulating or at the forefront of style. It was about the establishment. Who made into the club. However, guilty as charged, I read the September issue.

Earning a reputation for control, Anna Wintour has learned as the rest of us, no one is in control during these times.

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Fashion Feature

Berlin to Frankfurt

A lot of shock news from Berlin, next stop Frankfurt.  Check out my take on the events.