Some images from our Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Coverage. Never a dull moment in the French Capital, the mode this season, prudence, not flash.
Stay Tuned for more coverage
Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture is over. This season, a strange feeling hovered over the French Capital. Numerous strikes have paralysedFrance. President Macron’s reform policies have not gone down well the citizens. I am not familiar with Gaul politics and economy but Paris was a city filled with tension. How many strikes occur in Paris on a weekly basis? I knew this would be a different fashion week when my flight was delayed. When I arrived at Charles De Gaulle airport, the first announcement I heard, “Due to industrial action,,,”. “Welcome!”
Secondly, Paris was really cold and gray. One day the temperature hit -4. Not pleasant weather for running around from show to show or standing outside for an extra 30 or 40 minutes. This fashion week events never start on time.
All shows had extra security on hand. The entire city has been on alert for threats.
My problem with fashion has been the democratization has been haphazard at best. I am beginning to wonder if it is worth attending a fashion week. Standing in lines, Fighting crowds, the expenses, the ROI seems to diminish. Has Instagram and social media has been a blessing or a curse? A lot of invites, a lot of attendees, but why? The agencies cannot keep up with the requests. The crowd control situation is the same as a South American Bus Station. However, strangely, many shows were not at full capacity.
At one show, I saw how exasperated the staff became. All of the sudden there are so many stylists, photographers, and influencers. HUH? I asked a few to show me their work. An Instagram Selfie is now an editorial. Then, there are those who borrow or buy clothes (later returned) for a fashion show appearance. The people who really work during fashion week cannot dress as if their are attending the Red Carpet Met Gala. I can spot them a front row seat away.
Thankfully, I do not have the need to be seen at every fashion show. If I sit five rows back, I ususally say, “send me the pictures”.
The big news from Paris Haute Couture Week, sadly, the last show for Jean Paul Gaultier. Sexual, imaginative, and ahead of the gender curve designer bowed out after 50 years on the scene. Gaultier stopped making Ready to Wear designs years ago, now, no more Couture looks. The star studded show was packed with his friends walking the runway. His classic breton stripes interpretations and ethnic chic influences, his frivolity will be missed.
I am still going over the looks from Haute Couture Week, please stay tuned. A lot of reviews coming soon.
It is always fun to attend Pitti Uomo. The Dandys or Peacocks walking around showing off their looks are impressive but at times some looks felt overdone. We think what makes a great look is if the looks seem effortless not like a math equation.
Stylist Gianni and I share share our views from Florence.
More from Pitti Uomo. Stay Tuned.
Department stores are ingrained the fabrics of cities. Cultural temples of consumption, meeting places to see and be seen. Before World War 2 Berlin had many grand showcases of prosperity lining its big streets and plazas. The sole survivor still in existence today is the KaDeWe on Tauentzienstrasse. Damaged by Allied bombings in 1943 the building closed until its reopening of its first two floors in 1950. Today, owned by Central Group, the giant store boasts over 60.000 square meters covering seven floors.
The latest renovation of the retail store giant is taking place over a staged periods. Phase 2 opened in this week, the ground floor, fifth floor, and sixth floor.
First, the ground floor, a narrow funneling traffic approach layout between the LV and Dior concessions. Not the most welcoming or pleasant interior, first impressions. I had feeling of running through a luxury Pac Man game. The funnel or entry track ends in a very cramped make up department at the foot of escalators.
The second renovated floor, house wares department, falls short of imagination with many new brands “just” on display, lacking an engaging effect.
A social meeting place, a hangout, shop for those special items only found in one spot in the city. KaDeWe’s food floor is as much a part of Berlin as the Brandenburg Gate, a reference point. The sixth floor mixed groceries bakeries, mixed cuisine restaurants, and cafes side by side, a local meeting place in many forms.
The remodelled phase one opened in December 2018. The completed second phase recently opened. Half thought out, awkward, lacking warmth comes to my mind. Out with the old footprint, in with the new. In my opinion, the old was better, special, more charm.
The atmospheric lighting is jarring, sterile. A remodelling blueprint exists, perhaps a bit of a rethink is needed. There is no overall look. New restaurant stalls just plopped in the middle of the floor layout. Tables randomly placed along low glass wall
Reinventing the 21st customer experience is crucial for retailers. Certainly the KaDeWe is moving ahead, but the direction is the question.
The KaDeWe Grand Opening Event was a crowd pleaser. An all expense gala with over 1800 guests sampling the newly opened restaurants.
Kadewe Phase 3 opens in December 2020
I love saying the name PUCCI! It conjures the glamour and expressive color of the 1960’s. Optimism ruled. The sense of tomorrow will be brighter day.
At Milan Fashion Week I stepped in to see what was new for Fall 2019. Prints and shaped colors continue to the unique aesthetic of the brand born in Florence during Post War Italy. Creative Director Peter Dundas still delights me by staying true to brand’s origins. In this day and age we need more optimism.
The world has now become social media politically conscience. It is hyper connected movement of righteousness mixed with moral superiority. If iOS shuts down, heaven help the world.
Predicting what Millennials and Social Media want is hard. They post one thing to be a part of a movement but purchase the opposite in stores.
Sustainability clothing will not come cheap. Yes, we agree the world needs to change course but putting wallet where the values seems hard to reconcile, especially for a generation raised on disposable fashion. Can they change their consumption habits. Are Millennials prepared to give up the 1.99 t-shirts? Will they buy better and less? No more weekly shopping trips to main street stores for weekend looks only to end up in garbage heaps 1 week later.
The contridictions are glaring. Based on real retail sales, the picture is not so social media warrior clear. When given the choice of quality over quantity. Quantity wins. New shopping habits are required to save the world. Not just feel good speeches.
Fashion pieces in the past were sustainable. Pieces made of better quality. Secondly, styles changes from season to season were less radical. Eternal is no longer a design plan. This is not compatible in a world perpetually chasing followers and likes. Selfies require a constant source of clothing.
The Fashion Industry has taken up the mantle. Recently announcing sustainability, Earth and eco-friendly are now a part of corporate manifestos. Doing more to help the environment. Commendable. But what does it mean? New production techniques, an incentive for less customer consumption, longer product life cycle.
Yes, people are more environmental aware. Voices chanting. Marches across the globe. But the real change comes from the dollar or euro. Where the intentions go, the wallet should follow.
Want to know what my experiences were like in Paris during Couture Week? Check out some of the videos. It was never boring. Sometimes a challenge overcoming old values. All things considered, I plan on returning. But Paris always excites me.
A Big Thank You to Canon. They loaned me a camera.
Black and Paper countdown to Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture starting June 30th. The City of Lights is our destination to the fashion week of fashion weeks. Couture is the ultimate in craftsmanship. One of a kind looks created by designers to showcase their skills as technique masters.
An understatement would be the word “Thrilled”. The adjective “Excited” comes in second. This came about because of an email located in our Junk File. The only option available, “yes”, feeling like the lead character Maggie Prescott from the 1957 film “Funny Face”. We may break out singing a Gershwin Song, “S Wonderful”.
Stay Tuned for all the coverage.
France 24 reports on the future of fashion.