From Pitti Uomo a Before Tacky quick talk with Paolo Ferrari about his new bags for 959.
Tag: fashion review
Press days are always an interesting moment in the fashion business. These are times when professionals and non-professionals a like trek around the city to press agencies to go over represented clients and brands in more details. For me, I am either inspired or informed. For the upcoming season, inform sat in the driver’s seat.
Amazon Fashion, ?yes?, you read it right. When I got the invitation, my expectations were not high. When I entered the apartment, I asked ?What is Amazon Fashion, Help me understand!? The mega e-commerce site has moved into selling high-end fashion. The bigger surprise was why would desired brands sell on a site known for cut rate prices for everything from books to dog collars to grey brands. The Bellevue, Washington tech giant enlisted social media influencers to appeal to Generation Z’s as an aspiring shopping destination for HUGO and Armani Exchange pieces. Well, Jeff Bezo did not earn $200 billion by making the wrong bets. But then again, who remembers Fire? The Amazon smartphone that came and went.
The second bit of information I was told, Danish corporation Bestseller is introducing a new menswear label aimed at affluent customers. Annarr means ?the next one? in the Norse language. A curious venture for Bestseller, whose subsidiaries include fast fashion staple Jack&;Jones, it means a gamble if clientele want a buying less but better quality. Four collections per year, carefully curated with looks influenced by Copenhagen casual style with a promise of layering abilities. Annarr arrives in stores in Spring 2024.
In the shock and surprise category, G-Star Raw has a 1,200 euro jacket. Normally, one does not associate a luxury price with a known streetwear brand, but as different segments of the fashion market converge in other categories such as trainers and t-shirts, the Dutch label has made a play in the luxury category.
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The Trend for 24
From New York to London to Milan and now Paris, there is a trend. After reviewing fashion weeks looks and pieces for Spring 24, there is definitely a change happening. Wearable styles without selfie friendly monograms are charging down the runways.
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Fashion Reviews
Fashion Season is here with the big runway shows from the capital cities of style showing off their newest collections.
Looking over the designs, we have some opinions. Before Tacky is coming soon.
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Pharrell on the Paris Catwalk
Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton menswear collection debuted on a spectacular scale. The Pont Neuf bridge was the setting for the musician, now a full-time fashion designer, to show off his version of luxury looks. Virigil Abhloh’s death left a big hole to fill. When the Virginia native was made head of the famed house in February, eyebrows hit the ceiling. Williams’ limited experience and lack of training felt a bit out of sync with the demands needed to be a creative head. The multi-nominated artist has street cred with his label, Billionaire Boys Club. The streetwear brand is celebrating its 20th anniversary.
Going to a fashion show in some cases is not about the fashion but about who is attending. Jay Z and Beyonce sat next to LVMH head Bernard Arnault. LV brand ambassador Rhianna hit the front row with baby bump and husband A$AP Rocky. Throw in supermodel Naomi Campbell, singer Lenny Kravitz, actress Zendaya. It pays to have famous friends, add in all the resources a $20 billion corporation with the Paris landscape as a backdrop, a choir, band and symphony, this event was spectacle worthy of Imperial Rome.
Looking over the numerous looks strutting over the Seine River, suddenly I had flashbacks to downtown Los Angeles. There was a guy who sold who sold fake designer clothing from the back of a truck. If a buyer wanted to try on the pieces, the alley way was the changing room. All transactions were cash only, no questions asked.
Not a Capsule Collection
Granted, Pharrell had only had three months to put together a collection. Looking over the pictures from June 20th, I saw recycled archives with new colors along with a homage to 90’s Ghetto Fabulousness. The absence of subtlety and lack of elegance struck because buyers want quiet luxury, toned down pieces of high quality. Secondly, there was no demonstrative style longevity with this collection. A fashion creative head needs authenticity, not the feeling of a capsule collection collaboration produced for a quick trip to the bank.
A person could be forgiven for thinking they were watching a garish indoctrination ritual. Logomania took over the catwalk in every color, shape and size, from bags and trunks to leather track suits with prints, suits with square patterns, pixel prints and knee length shorts with jackets.
I am willing to give Pharrell a second chance to reevaluate. Perhaps he will grow into the job. If not, the hit song maker still has his first career as a fallback.
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Fashion with Ko.
A designer inspired by school uniforms. Look out for the interview with Ko Tae Yong.
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Fashion Week Reviews
Of Course Not! We have not forgotten Fashion Week. We will have news, reviews and opinions coming.
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Is This Couture?
Going over the designs from Paris Fashion Week Couture, one brand had a star studded Runway Walk. Normally, this is a bad omen, the focus shifts from the looks to the celebs. Prophecies coming true scare me. Not mentioning the name of this brand or designer as I watched the fashion video, a lesson learned. Do not watch DUNE while taking MDNA. Fashion is fun, a bit silly but the line to stupid was crossed. When the models walked as if they were wounded from Hyena attacks, time for a design rethink. Certainly, the global publicity for the brand will be enormous. However, laughing with you is different from laughing at you. I wonder which will win out.
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OH NO THEY DIDN’T!
I met fashion designer Chet Lo in Milan at the White Trade show. His futuristic eye catching textile designs got my immediate attention. In a white chromatic room, how could the polychromas pastels and fuchsia pieces not grab attention? I chatted with Chet about his unique looks.
The London based designer is now involved in a copycat scandal with a global fashion chain. H&M has been accused of intellectual property impropriety. Diet Prada and Daily Mail reported the Swedish chain’s new “conscious” Innovation Cherish Waste Collection is an imitation of the Asian American’s pieces. The similarities are quite noticeable. What should we think? After looking over the pieces from both sides, well,,, the finger pointers have a valid argument. H&M denies the plagiarism allegations.
I have a feeling this fashion drama is not over.
This episode of Before Tacky talks about the Fall 2022 collections. Combining men’s and women’s runway shows, see what we like for the coming season.