A lot of hoopla surrounded Kim Jones’s first couture collection for Fendi. Filling the shoes of Karl Lagerfeld is a big order to fill for even the most talented designer. After viewing the star studded runway show in the Covid era virtual platform, I saw a few glimmers of hope mixed with an overdose of gimmicks.
Actress Demi Moore kicked off the catwalk, the preview image of an all star cast. Kate Moss and daughter, Christy Turlington, Hadid and Naomi Campbell all made appearances for the creative directors new designs. My cynical side sent off waring bells. Too much high wattage packaging could mean a cover up. Even having male models in a couture show walking on the runway wearing heavy lipstick had a scent of pleading for gender fashion relevance.
The fashion press coverage heaped much coverage on the celebrity walk. More journalist spoke about the models than the fashion pieces. Why? Perhaps the designs were average. No spectacular looks, richly crafted, but on the right side of dull, gloomy. Moss’ gray dress was “Operatically Grim.”
As the head of Dior menswear, Jones designed a dreamy aesthetic but also embraced streetwear looks into the French House. Yet for this couture season, Kim’s first collection felt uncentered.
I usually wait for a second collection by a new designer before passing judgement. I hope Kim Jones doesn’t disappoint me.
