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Fashion

Yes, It’s Real

The diversity question is first and forefront in the fashion business. Triggered by global protests, a reckoning is taking place.  Are fashion environments racists?  An industry in need of different voices, falling short when it comes to inclusion, fashion is an elitist field until recently only for the few living on 5th avenue in New York.  

I made a quick video on my interactions, views and experiences.

I hope fashion makes meaningful long-lasting changes.  Not just following a # for the shake of social media legitimacy.  The industry talks the talk.  But fall short when it comes to the walk.

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Fashion

LFW in the New Normal

The first fashion week in the “New Normal”, London Fashion Week goes digital. An event once exclusive to fashion insiders, LFW is now available to the public via Internet. 

In comparison to the other fashion capitals, London’s beats the other cities with its experimentation, a quirky stance on style. Does this translate to digital? In a manner of speaking “no”. On screen,  the awe value is lessened.  The spectacle is not as spectacular.  

Adding to this, he value of having fashion weeks comes into question as the industry faces pressure on many fronts. Magazines have lost relevance. Retailers are closing stores. Shoppers have cut back on none essential purchases.  

I hope next year LFW goes live again. 

 I like this:

Looks from Kaushik Velendra 

A veteran of Louis Vuitton, Daniel  Fletcher interprets menswear and streetwear designs into minimalistic fluidity.   Harry Styles wears his suits. 

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Fashion

WOAH!

I’ll give my opinion on fashion using this crisis to boast its “diversity” credentials. Not happening here! Let’s me keep it 100!  

Stay Tuned for my views.

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Fashion

REALLY!?!

Why are so many fashion journalist selling out? Because they want access. The same trend has been happening in mass journalism. Objectivity has become a dirty word. Life is easier to absorb the Press Release. A designer makes a mediocre or bad collection, a soft critique or bad review is not allowed. Instead there is a sort of praise. Sometimes it feels like lipstick on a pig. Losing the front row, banished to a second row is a glamor don’t. 

When a certain NY Times fashion writer labels a designer “this generations,,,,,” I know we are in trouble. Of course pandering comes with the territory. But there are limits. Even if the label buys ad pages. Or has a lot of followers.

As fashion magazines and writers continue to lose sway over the industry they are becoming more desperate to stay relevant. When once a few editors decided on trends, the fashion hierarchy is chasing them. All leaders cling on until the end.

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Fashion

Paris Fashion Week 2020

The low down on Paris Fashion Week, France 24 gives all the details. 

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Fashion

Reminds Me of Fall

As I walked to the bakery on the wet, dreary fall day my mind went back to a fashion presentation at Milan Fashion Week. The problem: I cannot remember the brand name. I think the show was on the schedule but for some reason it evades me. 

The brands looks were based on strong knitwear. Oversized pieces with lush feels,the looks were designed for women with a life.  

When I find the designers name I will post it.

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Fashion

Say Strong

How about a collection that says “me now”? I did not know the Paula Cademartori until a fashion colleague asked me to accompany her to the presentation at a Milan antique store. The designer goes for strong fall statement accessories with bags and shoes.  

From Milan Fashion Week 

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Fashion

My Milan Fashion Week View

This season was not the strongest for the Italian Style Capital. A moment collective crisis or a shift to what it does best. Backing away from mixing streetwear to more tailoring and Italian chic style.

Quick Round up 

Armani stayed in his lane. Cool blue and pink pastels, metallics, and fluid materials made up his 78 look collection. The jackets were sleek. The embellishment heavenly. Normally his collection are shown at the Armani Solo, but this time it took place at his the corporate address in the courtyard.

It is hard to write about the Versace show without mentioning J.Lo walking in the iconic Jungle Green Dress. It does not matter what I write about the brand. Donatella knows what her clients want and she gave it to them. The mini dress is my favorite.

Bottega Veneta, not my cup of tea. I love the bags but with this collection I could not transfer the emotion. The leather luxury brand mixed leather, with seaters along with an interpretation of streetwear. I will give Creative Director Daniel Lee another chance.

I talked about Jil Sander at another show. A fashion journalist told me how she admired co-designers Lucie and Luke Meier. The brand has been in the wilderness for a moment. Prints and embellishments in a Sander show are a shocker. This collection had moments, enough for me to look forward to the next.

Normally I am fan of Retro 60’s looks but Alberta Ferretti’s collection of suede, tie dye dashiki’s “let the sunshine in” looks fell flat at times.

Ermanno Scervino’s feminine looks came across as a man who likes women in his clothes. No overdone looks, just get noticed without a spotlight. Leathers with silk, some animal prints, and blues made for a classy collection.

Why so basic? Tod’s showed making looks that felt generic. Not a single look stood out.

Fila is more known for sportswear. As the lines are blurred brands are moving in all areas. Shock! I have to say, I liked its first runway collection. Sexy, wearable, sporty rolled into one.

Fendi post Karl appears to be in good hands. Quilted pieces, suede, leather, and cotton, made for an expressive collection.

I attended the Bally Presentation. The return to the casual luxury looks were welcomed.

A adventure in Fashion Glamour or a woman who is eternally cool. Etro blended both. I liked the collection of prints, colors, suits, and short hemlines.

My first impression of the Salvatore Ferragamo collection. The looks did not wow me but some were better than others. The monochromatic blues, beige, floral, and leather pieces grew on me.

Iceberg decided on the get scene by wearing pastels in a big way. The looks work incling the mini’s, denims, and swimsuits.

A special mention to Fashion Shenzhen for an intersting show of Red Carpet Looks. Many looks were details and intricate.

The German luxury brand Boos debuted in Milan. This collection felt like left over pieces from other designers, a fashion Frankenstein. Patchwork creations pieced together. If there was a brand DNA, I could not see it.

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Fashion

Black and Paper at Milan Fashion Week

My Reliable BFF

Milan Fashion Week was exhausting, a tight and grueling schedule. Many shortened presentations and events running alongside Fashion Shows made for eleven hour days. Once again the reliable Milan Metro System became my best friend.

As a whole, the Furla collection was a bit underwhelming. 

The Milan Fashion Scene is under going a crisis, a type of creative insecurity. The feeling was more in a neutral space with designers venturing to the demure side. No designs stood above the rest. Moving away from creative statements, commercial needs take precedent. At the time of writing I am going over the looks from the runways and presentations. My opinion may change in the future, stay tuned.

Bulgaria Bags with the Scarab clasp.  The embroided handbag was a key piece.

Fashion like any business needs new ideas, renewel. A source of my appreication comes from independent designers. Talking to them, seeing the designs inspire me.  If they hit it big I can say “I met him or her when”.

Luxury brand Cinzia Rocca stayed true to the classic form this season while introducing new accessories.

Chunky Craze 

From Sketchers, A 90’s retro look.  Chunky Sneakers are a part of the brand DNA.  

BrunoThe Chunky Sneaker trend continues to reign supreme. Every house and designer have answered the call. As a non-fan, it is hard to write good things about this. Walking around with a tank on my foot is not my ideal of style. What was once a niche footwear has now gone mainstream. The other streetwear piece niche now in the style conscience scene, the belt bag. The inescapable fashion accessory piece is a must have. Will I buy one? NO! They lack an elegance I look for a bag. Not complementing but portruding from the waist the same as a hernia.

Bruno Cucinelli soft looks are made for easy styling.  Each cable knit sweater takes 36 hours to produce.

Get a Job

Lastly, Instagram Ego’s were not in short supply. The business of “Selfie Promotion” has gotten so large, many Carrie Bradshaw Wannabes’s brought partners to take pictures and videos to records their experiences. A few seasons ago they were welcomed, now attendees are visibly rolling eyes. Weariness! How many Instagram Influencers posting a picture of themselves can attend a show? If any out there think this is a full time career, my advice would be to start acquiring new skill sets.

Stay Tuned for more coverage.

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Fashion

From France 24