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Fashion

London Fashion Week Review

London is about experimenting. as a Global City with far flung reach, the fusion of ideas is a given.  There is no one aesthetic to describe the scene, styles ranges from classic to apocalyptic.

This year the initiative is POSITIVE FASHION STRATERGY based on Sustainability, Equality and Diversity, Craftsmanship and Community.

On a strange note: I am not sure what is happening to London Fashion Week. The Guardian had an article regarding the British Fashion Council and designers asking for up to 5000 pounds from non fashion professionals for front row seats at runway shows, Along with this purchase, access to VIP rooms etc. Reading this made me wonder. Why would the BFC have this in place? I have no clue. As one of the “Big 4” fashion events, LFW attracts attention, the need for paying attendees feels like desperation, an auction of the family jewels. I know of no other fashion week doing this.

Roland Mounter fused sheer, loose, and shine into a collection of femininity. I liked certain looks (44, while other looks confused me, looking half ideas, 24.

Victoria Beckham celebrated 10 years in fashion by having her first show in London. She has admitted not drawing or cutting or doing any of the classic fashion designer jobs. Beckham is a brand megapower. The anniversary collection lacked spectacle for wearability with accessible materials.

Erdem stayed close and long to the body with a wide array of prints, designs inspired by the past vision of the Perfect Woman. The large vintage belle époque hats topped off a few looks. Did I like it? Some looks, “Yes!” My recommendations are 16, 29, and 31.

Peter Pilotto. I can start off by saying I really liked the collection. The metallic colors, the do as you want 70’S looks are all about night time fun, like looks #20, #37.

Roskanda is about oversize, color, and belted looks with prints, I especially liked 27 and 44.

Mary Katrantzou proves colors, shapes and objects can be vibrant, stylish, and eye catching. Loving it! 4, 11, 31 are my favorites.

Simone Rocha and all those veils inspired by Asia. Stark reds, accents were at the center of a collection that took a cue from China for shapes and lengths.

Rejina Pyo had a breezy show of colors for a beach holiday, gingham dress and mules that were mostly daywear looks. Not sophisticated but light, but that is a good thing.

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Fashion

All Aboard Chanel

The fashion world is buzzing about the Chanel Cruise Collection from Paris. Yes! It was confident, alive! Once again Mr. Lagerfeld has proven why he is a maestro of fashion and showmanship. All Aboard! In the Grand Palais, if you can sell a collection based on the location, get the credit cards ready, the setting was noting short of breathtaking with a replica of an ocean liner built to show his latest feminine looks. Hats, quilting, tweed and sliced denim, and sailor looks were abound.

Chanel has always been a brand about a woman with class, certain status in life. But that has not stopped the Parisian brand from being modern, elegant evolution. Wherever this ship is sailing, make sure to book a ticket.

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Fashion

A Gucci Gender

Black and Paper went to the Gucci Hub in Milan  during Fashion Week to have a look at the look at the Spring 18 collection.  The theme was “Genderless”.

Stay tuned for all the looks and our review.

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Fashion

New York Fashion Week Reviews

Collections I liked.

RiRi stole the show in many ways.  One for spectacle of presentation but on the collection front I liked the Fenty X Puma. I see success.  It is wearable and very today; the urban chic style will be everywhere.

Do not wear this collection to Church.  Linder decided on body aggressive.  One false move and the world becomes your gynecologists with some looks bordering on centerfold pin up.  The color palette was narrow but the choice of styles was wide including jackets, chains, and mid-section dresses.

Johnathan Saunders has the reigns of Diane Von Furstenberg, I am pleased.  I liked this collection because it was sophisticated, vibrant, and attainable. He threw on the colors, patterns and materials in so many forms from leather coats to denim inspired jackets, and the signature wrap dress.

Keep it light and airy seems to be Sies Marjan approach to making a collection that was breezy while colorful. Pajama inspired menswear, slip on dresses for ladies.  Her approach was based on simplicity.  It worked.

Confidence is what makes a lady so attractive.  Marina Moscone knows this judging by a collection that was made for a woman who has a lot going on.  Long flowing caftans, bell bottom suits are high points of the collection from the designer who came on the scene last year.

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Fashion

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin-MAISONNOÉE

Black and Paper at the Maisonnoee Fashion Show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin.

A Berlin based known for leather wear. This season the primary focus was on soft silhouettes mixing lengths and materials.

Images by Vladimir Sichov for Black and Paper.com

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Fashion

An Interview with Xu Zhi

A Black and Paper Exclusive

London based Chinese fashion designer interprets feminine looks using progressive materials paired with constructive elements of design.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, Xu founded his label in 2014, achieving success with his collection available in many prestigious stores in Asia and Europe.

The young designer showed his Fall 2017 collection in Milan during Fashion Week at the Teatro Armani with support of Mr. Armani and National Chamber of Italian Fashion.   Cutting edge denim, braids, and the color blue were the central themes along with leather.  The collection showed confidence from a young designer willing to go in his own fashion direction.

As a new designer, how are you planning to attract loyal clients?

My brand is very much based on longevity. We are taking time to really assess who the Xu Zhi woman is, and offer collections that will enhance both their lives and current wardrobes. Also, in continuing developing the house style, we hope to familiarize yet still excite our customer season after season.

You use high quality materials, where are they sourced?

It is dependent on the season, but largely from Italy and France.

How did you feel about being supported by Armani and Camera Moda at Fashion Week?

Incredibly humbling and hugely exciting that, as a young designer, our hard work has been acknowledged.

What inspired the deconstructed looks?

It originally came from the idea of trying to imitate brushstrokes with fabric, and how that could be achieved in different ways. This resulted in the deconstructed element you refer to.

What type of woman would wear look #5?

The Xu Zhi woman. Decisive, commanding and assertive – yet approachable, humble and refined.

Where will your brand be in the future? 

I think we’re growing organically – it’s difficult to say where it will be, but I’d like it to be in the closets of the woman we’re trying hard to speak to with our pieces.

Xu Zhi collection can be found in Dover Street Market, London, Lane Crawford  Hong Kong, and Opening Ceremony, Tokyo.

 

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Fashion

Met Gala Review 2

Met Gala Review part 2

I had a chance to go over the final images from the event.   There were more looks I liked and ones I did not like.

LIKES

Natasha Poly

Liu Wen

Isabelle Huppert

DID NOT LIKE

Jessica Chaistain-The color tone and dress reminded me of a medicine bottle.

J-Lo-Blue Maleficent

Selma Hayek-Boring Balenciaga!

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Fashion

Rustic Colors

Damir Doma

During Milan Fashion Week the Black and Paper visited the Damir Doma showroom  for a look at the brands latest collection.

Mr. Doma stayed true to his brands philosophy  with a mixture of knitwear and leather materials this season combined with rebel shapes.  The Fall 2017 looks were dominated by rustic colors with in soft hues.

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Fashion

Raf Simons at Calvin Klein

Raf Simons made his debut at Calvin Klein during NYWFW.  I can honestly say I had no clue what was going on concerning the collection.  An iconic American brand in need of restart Mr. Simons with his pedigree was suppose to give a boast to the label,  make it Chic Again.

Simons first collection is a bit of everything looking for direction.  CK has been a brand known for minimalism, sexuality, and denim.

His interpretation of denim is to make it like a rigid Catholic School uniform.  The Minimalistic  looks were like crayons out of a box, a bit of a mess. The Sexy looks were more vulgar with the Nude Sheer Shirts for men.

I have high hopes for the designer even if this collection was a bit of a  misfire feeling like a vintage reworking. Raf’s  work at Jil Sander and his own label were the stuff of legends.