Stay tuned for complete coverage of the Tom Verlaine Couture show from Paris.
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Tag: fashion style
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Stop The Violence!
Fashion violence has many victims. There is no better example than attending a fashion show of a well known brand. Witnessing the spectacle of a heard of victims all gussied up for display, showing off their logo loyalty.
Flash back to the 1980’s, as luxury houses started to become more “mastige”, accessible to masses through licenses, everything started having a designer logo. The first, Paris based designer Pierre Cardin signed over his namesake signature to everything from terrycloth shirts to baseball caps. Sadly, the brand lost its luster, becoming a joke, then irrelevant.
Fast forward 2010, while having a cafe in Sloan Square, London, I witnessed one victim after another walking by overtly wearing designer brand this, designer brand that, proud fashion violence victims. They had no scars or bruises, just very visible labels.
During the past fashion season I walked past the Fendi show in Milan. Fashion Violence victims were numerous. Throw a people you would have hit three. Do not misunderstand. I adore Fendi and Mr. Lagerfeld’s work. As the creative director, he has done a masterful job of keeping the brand modern and relevant in the social media age. The luxury label is now bling, bling with its “double F” logo on diverse merchandise. However, This is where the violence starts for me.
I saw so many fashion attendees wearing Fendi from top to bottom, the complete collection. I wondered, was this a fashion show or a Fendi version of a Scientology Cult Convention. My definition of Fashion Victimhood: When a person buys a brand to become an extreme living billboard. Wearing the entire branded look, then throwing in more to top it off! Is this overcompensation behavior occurring? Having to prove garish devotion to fashion by being an over the top caricature. Imagine an entire body branded with “FENDI” references. Rapper Lil Kim with the LV logo painted on her naked flesh comes to mind. Is this fashion or victimization? Fashion Violence victims and Fashion Clowns are the same. I laugh when I see one or the other.
Style icons who wore designer brands were never victims of Fashion Violence. Is there a picture of Audrey Hepburn with the Givenchy logo emblazoned on her look? Think about it.
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MORE IS MORE
Desperate and trying to reach a demographic that is hard to figure out was my first reaction to looking over the latest fashion looks from a well known brand. Like so many labels, it is trying to lure younger buyers. For the Spring collection it decided to ditch the old DNA to make a full throttle charge at the selfie generation with colors and over the top branding on everything. This is creative teams interpretation of streetwear; give them tacky and more tacky. The result in my opinion: sky writing would have been less subtle.
As I was given a tour of the pieces and the usual “PR Speak” about the brands new approach, “reaching back”, “looking young”, “loving the inspiration”, etc, T shirts for 40 euros, as this high end label is chasing the younger buyer, I wanted to ask the press rep if he knew ANOTHER, EVEN LARGER, PRIMARK just opened in the city. But his job is not strategy, it is to tell me about the pieces. I had to give him a high mark for enthusiasm.
The “Primark Haul” is a popular topic on social media. It is a digital trough of cheap consumption on display. The program host proudly shows off his or her Primark Bag and its contents. T-shirts for 2 euros, jeans for 19.99 euros, and sweaters for 24 euros. YES, viewing this scared me at the beginning, but we must remember YouTube has given the world celebrities who pop pimples on camera.
Back to the brand showing me their capsule collection. I am not sure if the Haul Watchers who believe in quantity over quality, are going to spend 40 euros for one t-shirt. Social media tells them to buy 6 at once, keep it for 2 weeks, then start over again. If fashion brands are aiming for this type of buyer, say a pray, then go CHEAP. Next time a brand public relations team recites talking points about details, cynical celebrity lines, and appealing to millennials, I will make sure to have a paper bag with 7 turquoise blue letters on the side.
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Fashion TITANIC
What is happening in the fashion world? Not sure! Many questions, few answers. I will give you my observations. Stay Tuned.
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MILAN FASHION WEEK
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London Fashion Week Review
London is about experimenting. as a Global City with far flung reach, the fusion of ideas is a given. There is no one aesthetic to describe the scene, styles ranges from classic to apocalyptic.
This year the initiative is POSITIVE FASHION STRATERGY based on Sustainability, Equality and Diversity, Craftsmanship and Community.
On a strange note: I am not sure what is happening to London Fashion Week. The Guardian had an article regarding the British Fashion Council and designers asking for up to 5000 pounds from non fashion professionals for front row seats at runway shows, Along with this purchase, access to VIP rooms etc. Reading this made me wonder. Why would the BFC have this in place? I have no clue. As one of the “Big 4” fashion events, LFW attracts attention, the need for paying attendees feels like desperation, an auction of the family jewels. I know of no other fashion week doing this.
Roland Mounter fused sheer, loose, and shine into a collection of femininity. I liked certain looks (44, while other looks confused me, looking half ideas, 24.
Victoria Beckham celebrated 10 years in fashion by having her first show in London. She has admitted not drawing or cutting or doing any of the classic fashion designer jobs. Beckham is a brand megapower. The anniversary collection lacked spectacle for wearability with accessible materials.
Erdem stayed close and long to the body with a wide array of prints, designs inspired by the past vision of the Perfect Woman. The large vintage belle époque hats topped off a few looks. Did I like it? Some looks, “Yes!” My recommendations are 16, 29, and 31.
Peter Pilotto. I can start off by saying I really liked the collection. The metallic colors, the do as you want 70’S looks are all about night time fun, like looks #20, #37.
Roskanda is about oversize, color, and belted looks with prints, I especially liked 27 and 44.
Mary Katrantzou proves colors, shapes and objects can be vibrant, stylish, and eye catching. Loving it! 4, 11, 31 are my favorites.
Simone Rocha and all those veils inspired by Asia. Stark reds, accents were at the center of a collection that took a cue from China for shapes and lengths.
Rejina Pyo had a breezy show of colors for a beach holiday, gingham dress and mules that were mostly daywear looks. Not sophisticated but light, but that is a good thing.
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New York Fashion Week REVIEWS
New York Fashion Week kicks off the season. “Diversity” is the key word but at times it feels like tokenism. The same as saying, “I have a friend who is,,,,” and I invited him or her to the party. “Pat me on the back for showing how forward thinking I am. In the 21st century, welcome to 1970, please cue a cynical remake of TV show “Room 222”. If you have to shine a bright spotlight on “diversity” it means something is entrenched in the system. The spot light is there to deflect criticism. In the Age of President Trump, a born and raised New Yorker, it feels like everyone wants to brandish their liberal credentials. Fashion Week is like a peacock spreading it feathers during mating season, showing off plumage. Look at us, embracing difference. It is welcome message of sorts but there needs to be substance, not media packaging. What happens after Trump leaves office?
Collections
Collections from New York Fashion Week for Spring 2019.
As a whole NY is about America, athletic, the physical.
Rodarte showed frivolity, frills, in a dark wonderland. I liked it. A welcome return to NYFW.
Prabal Gurung was color and give more color until sunglasses are needed, optimisitismis the heart of the collection.
Escada has returned to the fashion after many years away, some looks were better than the collection as a whole. It is still a brand in search itself, the looks reflected this.
Boss is in the post Jason Wu period, so the brand loosened up a lot. Did I like the looks? Some. Not all. At times it felt more Italian than German, then American, trying to appeal to many.
Proenza Schouler returns to NYFW after being in Paris. Whatever influenced them in Paris, it was not the elegance of the city. So many rigid looks bordering on uniforms. Thumbs Down!
Tibi went for the soft and gentle but genderless clothing was front and centered, but the collection is wearable.
Anna Sui shinning visual exotics catches the eye with so many prints, headpieces, kaftans.
Carolina Herrara’s new creative director Wes Gordon has big shoes to fill. Did he succeed? Almost There are many vibrant prints his collection but at times I felt overwhelmed. Gordon needs to learn how to pull back a bit, too much is too much!
Suzanne Rae went with florescent colors, fun. I was waiting for Molly Ringwald.
Badgley Mischka had red carpet stars in their eyes, preparing for close ups with Alice in Wonderland being the theme of the collection.
Oscar de la Renta proves why the label is still a standard bearer for NYFW. Simply put, making elegance look easy moving from day to evening from yellow to black, fringes to frills.
Libertine. One Jeremy Scott is enough but I admit I liked some looks, especially #2, jacket and leggings.
As a fan of 3.1 Phillip Lim I can be honest. I liked the collection. HA! Touches of the 70’s suggested a bit of liberation or a romantic adventure. The color scheme was neutral, soft whites, grays, and silvers.
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Berlin Press Days 2018
I am a fan of Press Days because there is the opportunity to see many things up and personal then ask questions. It is a fashion meet and greet between agencies and editors. What is new? Trends? During these two days it is a chance to meet designers or discover new labels and brands.P
Images by Canon Camera
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Masculine Eye Candy
Belgian designer Dirk Bikkembergs is always about the sexy man. Spring 2018, staying true to form, the looks favored the man who embraces being looked at in all the right ways, masculine eye candy. The black looks were my favorite.
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